Mt truck is a 1993 f250 w/ an E4od trans. On the way home it started shifting really hard. I checked the fluid and it is full and clean. the battery terminals are clean too. could t be the TPS. if it is what is the reading supposed to be on the OHM meter. I drive this truck 150 miles a day and i don't want to get stuck somewere. Any help would be great.

 

hope this helps out.
Before or after overhaul, harsh engagements and shifts.
Upshifts late and harsh. No LU and no 3-4 shift.
Cause
TPS (throttle position sensor) or FIPL (fuel injection pump lever) sensors bad or out of
range.
Note
If the controller sees a problem with TPS or FIPL sensors, or the voltage to the sensors is
too low or high it puts the transmission in FMEM (failure management effects mode). In
other words, it sets the transmission to high line pressure (about 150 psi) to protect it
from damage. The controller will not take the transmission out of FMEM until the sensor
/ circuit is repaired.
Important
Early model controllers did not have FMEM. That meant if you had a bad TPS or FIPL
that wouldn't send a voltage increase signal back to the controller you had no line rise. No
line rise causes the unit to fail real fast. This was a common problem on 7.3L diesels that
used a black PIPE sensor. Ford updated the sensor. Always replace the black FIPL sensor
with the updated gray one. Ford part # F2TZ-9B989-C.
Also
FIPL adjustment is critical to the life of this transmission. An incorrectly adjusted FIPL
can alter line pressure up to 15 psi. The easiest and quickest way to correctly adjust it is
with a scanner. You will also need the gauge block from Ford, which keeps the throttle
from opening all the way. The gauge block part # is T92T-7B200-AH or you can use any
thing that measures .515" thick.
CLARIFICATION NOTE: YOU DO NOT USE THE .515" GAUGE BLOCK
WHEN USING THE DVOM METHOD TO ADJUST THE TPS/FIPL. PLEASE
SEE ADDENDUM AT BOTTOM OF PAGE BEFORE STARTING ANY
PROCEDURE.
Correction
Check TPS/FIPL
Here's how
1. Hook DVOM black lead to battery negative cable.
2. Turn Key to on position (do not start engine).
3. Set meter to DC volts/ 0 to 40-volt scale.
Note
Leave 3-wire connector hooked up to TPS/FIPL sensor for test.
4. Probe black wire on 3-wire connector with red lead of meter. Must be less than .1
volts (that's 1/10 of a volt not l volt). Will probably read in milli-volts. This is the
ground wire. If more then .1 volts, ground is bad.
5. Now probe the orange wire. Must be close to 5 volts. This is reference voltage
sent from the controller. No voltage means an open wire between the sensor and
the controller. Low voltage means the wire is shorted to ground.
6. Check the green wire. It should be around 1 volt. Leave the red lead hooked up to
the wire and steadily open the throttle until it is wide open. You should see a
steady increase in voltage up to 4 to 4.5 volts, with no fluctuation. Be careful! If
you open the throttle to fast the DVOM will probably show 0 voltage or out of
limits. This is normal. If the voltage does not increase at all the TPS/FIPL is bad. If
it is below 1 volt and never gets to 4 volts, it might just need to be adjusted.
To Adjust FIPL if you don't have a scanner:
1. Loosen FIPL adjustment bolts.
2. Hook DVOM black lead to battery negative cable.
Note
Leave 3-wire connector hooked up to FIPL.
3. Turn key to on position (do not start engine).
4. Set DVOM to DC volts/ 0 to 40 volt scale.
5. Probe green wire (center wire) with red lead of meter.
6. Idle- 1.1 to 1.4 volts.
7. Wide open throttle- 4.1 to 4.5 volts.
ADDENDUM TO ABOVE TEST AND ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE (Provided by
direct experience from Ford Truck Enthusiast Message Board Member, RxF, which may
help you get insight and verify what your own Throttle Position Sensor or Fuel Injection
Pump Lever sensor is doing. Note: this was taken from a thread in the Pre-Powerstroke
Diesel Section but should mostly apply to the TPS on gasoline engines as well; edited
some for succinctity)
A Note on the Gauge Block:
If using a DVOM to adjust the FIPL sensor, you DO NOT use the .515" gauge block. The
gauge block is only used when adjusting the FIPL sensor with a Scanner Tool. WOT
(Wide Open Throttle) is literally when the Fuel Injection Pump Lever is moved all the
way from it's idle position to when the Maximum Throttle Set Screw (DO NOT ADJUST)
makes contact with the Injection Pump Maximum Throttle Stop.
" The gauge block is only used with the 'scanner tool' or a resistance adjustment
procedure I've seen. From reading that procedure (the above procedure not in italics), it
was not initially clear to me that this was to be done without the gauge block. The
confusion came because the DVOM voltage adjustment procedure was described as an
alternative to the (preferred) scanner-tool procedure. The scanner procedure was
described first and mandated the gauge block use. The verbage should have made it clear
not to use it when performing the alternate procedure.
The following was verified on my truck:
Reference Voltage= 5.04volts
Ground Terminal Voltage was 18 millivolts (.018 volts) after cleaning grounds.
So the system environment I put the FIPL sensor into is good.
Final Adjusted FIPL sensor results:
Idle: 1.33v, WOT: 4.03v
These numbers were the best I could get with the 2 FIPL sensors I had, one not too old
and the other brand new.
The FIPL sensors (either one) have a Resistance Total equal to about 4.57kilohms.
There is just about 1.1 miliamps (1.1028 ma) of current drawn from the reference supply.
With the gauge block in place, the FIPL sensor had a Center Terminal to Ground
Resistance of 1.9 kilohms. Then, with voltage applied, the center terminal generated 2.25
volts with the gauge block in place. THIS MEANS THE GAUGE BLOCK PUTS YOU IN
A MID-THROTTLE STATE.
HELPFUL HINTS:
1. Probing the FIPL sensor Voltages: Do this from the back (wire side) of the FIPL
sensor. There is a polyurethane grommet that is grey in color which the 3 wires enter the
harness connector through. This grommet is easily removed with a screwdriver w/o
damage. When done with testing/adjustment, apply a slight film dielectric grease on outer
edge of grommet to ease insertion into 3-wire harness connector and provide an
improved seal.
2. Prior to adjusting the FIPL sensor, disconnect the electrical connection to the Fast
Idle Solenoid. This ensures that when you have the ignition switch on, the solenoid
plunger does not engage and there will be no voltage discrepancies when adjusting the
FIPL sensor idle voltage. Be sure to re-connect the fast idle solenoid once you've gotten
the FIPL sensor adjusted."
Part Number
FIPL Sensor
Ford # F2TZ-9B989-C

 

I would pull the codes.

 

makes sense what was stated above related to the TPS. I'm experiencing this weird shifting, too. I'd like to verify the voltage is correct coming from my TPS.

But when I open my hood, what the heck am I looking for? I don't know where the TPS is. If someone can direct me to it, I can make some headway...

Any other insight is greatly appreciated, too!

 

TPS is mounted on the drivers side of the IP.

 

I have a 93 F350 with Sidewinder Turbo. O/D light was blinking, took it in to run codes and came back with TPS and Converter Clutch Slip. I cannot get into my mechanic for another week, but need to use pickup to haul a steer to town this weekend. Seems to drive fine, no real hard shifts, but Tach is acting up occasionally. Is it safe to drive the 20 miles to town? I appreciate any help.

 

Quote: but Tach is acting up occasionally.


In your case since the Tach is acting up, most likely the problem is the Tach Sensor. It is located on drivers side of the engine oil fill housing next to your engine oil filler cap. It has two black wires coming out of what looks like a 1" nut.

If you absolutely have to drive I would take off the OD using your button and try and drive that way. If it is really bad you could manually shift into 2nd gear to limp your way home.

The tach failure is not as bad as the hard shifts you get with a failed TPS but it is always best to fix these problems right away.

Seb...

 

Thank you for the information. I did try it today with the OD off. It did better, but am still trying not to drive very far.

 

I have a 94 F-250 7.3 International with Turbo, just started shifting hard from 1st to 2nd and sometimes bounces in and out of OD. Adjusted TPS and helped very little. Some days when I get my foot in the pedal it shifts great and smooth (around 2000 rpm on take off from stop) some days it shifts hard no matter what I do. I'm thinkin a filter change will help. Any ideas??

 

Does the tach and speedometer work perfectly?

If they both work fine, then adjusting the TPS might cure your problem.

Those are the most common simple problems.

Filter and fluid change, not a bad idea once a year, maybe even more often if you tow much.

 

Yes tach and spedo work fine seem to be pretty close to perfect. I changed filter yesterday and drove it around the block and seems to have fixed it 80% or better. I've adjusted the TPS to 1.10V I'll check it again today and see where it's at. The milage was written on the filter and it's been about 210,000 miles since filter change. I've only had this truck for about 2 months so still workin out the bugs.