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"Check Trailer" Light - Code 2808 - what does it mean?

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Old May 19, 2009 | 10:21 PM
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"Check Trailer" Light - Code 2808 - what does it mean?

We tow our 5'er with a 2005 F-350 diesel 6-speed that has the integrated trailer brake controller. The last few times we've towed, intermittently the "Check Trailer" light comes on. Initially, Hubby found one of the trailer brakes had a loose wire, so he fixed that up and all the other brakes checked out, but the light is still coming on. It happens mostly when we're just driving, not braking. Most recently, however, when coming to an easy stop, the truck's brake pedal seems to give way & depress suddenly just immediately before the "check trailer" light comes on, and it feels like there are no brakes at all for a split second, then the brakes grab and the trailer brakes lock up.

I took the truck (w/o the trailer) to the dealer last week and had the brakes checked (nothing wrong, pads still have 7mm), parking brake checked (they replaced the lever to set the parking brake because the ratchett wasn't working), and told them about the "check trailer" light issue. They came back with the following on my paperwork: "unable to verify trailer light coming, hook up IDS-retrieved code 2808, performed pinpoint test D1-D5, found trailer hitch connector not fully locking, remove and reinstall connector, connector plastic release/lock tab bent causing concern, rec. trailer hitch connector to start - customer declined at this time". I declined to have the plug-in in the bed replaced, because Hubby said he could do it.

So, tonight, Hubby removed the plug-in from the truck bed, and said that he could tell that it hadn't been removed and looked at as stated on my paperwork, and that nothing was broken or bent on it. He checked the other trailer wiring under and around the truck bed, and said it all looked good, too. We are planning on towing again this weekend, but I'm uneasy about it until this problem is resolved, for obvious reasons.

Does anyone know what code 2808 means? Has anyone had this problem, and if so, how was it resolved? Any ideas?????

Many thanks!
 
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Old May 20, 2009 | 09:00 AM
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I had problems with Mine dealer checked and installed a new controller still did it.I checked all the trailer wiring installed new maganets all 4.Still had a problem got a good wiring diagram started traceing replaced the ABS valve front one on the bottom of the master cylinder so far so good.Some times dealers aren't the final answer.Hope this helps.
 
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Old May 20, 2009 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by yankee88
I had problems with Mine dealer checked and installed a new controller still did it.I checked all the trailer wiring installed new maganets all 4.Still had a problem got a good wiring diagram started traceing replaced the ABS valve front one on the bottom of the master cylinder so far so good.Some times dealers aren't the final answer.Hope this helps.
Interesting thought! I have a question, though... Did the "check trailer" light come on even when you were just cruising down the freeway without applying the brakes?
 
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 06:36 PM
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I think we have a fix... finally!! Took the truck & trailer to an RV Repair shop a couple weeks ago and they rewired some stuff and changed out the 7-way system for a 4-way system (or maybe 5-way - can't remember - but I think it's a 4-way). Anyway, they eliminated the butt-connectors on our aftermarket in-the-bed plug by pulling out the 4-way connector on the bumper and direct wiring the factory wiring to a new 4-way connector in the bed. We still have the newly-replaced (and never ever used) 7-way connector on the bumper that Ford just installed in their lame attempt to solve the problem. The Repair Shop also replaced the plug end on the trailer's wiring. All I did was tow the trailer back to storage, but it seemed like everything was working fine. I think I'm going to go get the trailer out of storage tonight so I can get new tires put on it before we go up to Oregon in a couple weeks. We ended up severely flat-spotting two tires when things were all fracked up last month! It'll be another good chance to test everything out, too. What a PITA this has been.......
 
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 01:59 PM
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If you continue to have problems with the factory set-up, it may be cheaper to install an after-market controller before you ruin more tires. It seems like very few dealers' service departments have anyone even remotely qualified to troubleshoot the factory system.

Steve
 
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 02:17 PM
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That was mentioned to me this morning by the owner of the RV Repair place. He was wanting to install an after-market controller and bypass all of the Ford equipment and wiring. However, one of the two or three main reasons we sold the F250 and bought the F350 was for the integrated trailer brake controller. Our after-market controller on the F250 was a POS. The brakes were either on or off, and if they were on, everything was locked up. The integrated controller worked GREAT for the first three and a half years... until all this crap started happening... sigh...... But, if the problem is in the Controller itself, I would think that Ford Service would have caught the problem and tried to replace the controller. They never mentioned doing that. Shouldn't there have been codes tell them what's wrong?? I'm beyond frustrated with this crap...
 
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 03:53 PM
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I agree, the factory system is sweet - UNTIL it malfunctions; then it's a crap shoot to find someone who can troubleshoot rather than throw new parts at it on your dime. I don't know what brand of controller you had on your 250, but I've used 7 different controllers from 3 different companies over the years and the Prodigy is by far the best; smooth, easy to install and dial-in, and not many $$$. Hopefully your factory system is now working, but if not................?

Steve
 
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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 11:42 PM
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Alrighty here's the latest update: Ford had a brake specialist engineer in the shop last Wednesday, and he test-drove the truck with the trailer hooked up and his diagnostic equipment plugged in. His readings indicated that the problem was in the controller itself. Thursday, the controller was replaced. I asked to have the $150 that I previously paid when they replaced the bumper plug and fuse credited, and my service advisor wrote that amount off the $450 parts price, and then gave me another 15% off the total parts & labor. By now we had a flat on one of the trailer tires and four others were badly flat spotted (one was the spare from a long time ago). Only 2 of the 7 tires were still road-worthy! I had new tires intstalled on both the trailer & my truck on Friday. (Got a pretty decent 10-tire discount ) We took the truck/trailer out for a test-drive this afternoon, and everything seems to be working, but at one point, when Hubby was trying to force an error by turning the controller up to a higher output, he did get a very quick lock-up/release and the fault light did flash & beep, but it was so quick that neither one of us got a glimse of what the actual error message was. Hubby thinks that he forced it, though, rather than the controller malfunctioning. We are leaving for Oregon in two days... Please keep your fingers crossed & wish us luck!!!! And please let this be the end of the saga...........
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 10:10 AM
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Got my fingers AND toes crossed for ya - have a great trip!

Steve
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Steina
I agree, the factory system is sweet - UNTIL it malfunctions; then it's a crap shoot to find someone who can troubleshoot rather than throw new parts at it on your dime. I don't know what brand of controller you had on your 250, but I've used 7 different controllers from 3 different companies over the years and the Prodigy is by far the best; smooth, easy to install and dial-in, and not many $$$. Hopefully your factory system is now working, but if not................?

Steve
The same company that made the Prodigy also make our factory system.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by TrekChick
Alrighty here's the latest update: Ford had a brake specialist engineer in the shop last Wednesday, and he test-drove the truck with the trailer hooked up and his diagnostic equipment plugged in. His readings indicated that the problem was in the controller itself. Thursday, the controller was replaced. I asked to have the $150 that I previously paid when they replaced the bumper plug and fuse credited, and my service advisor wrote that amount off the $450 parts price, and then gave me another 15% off the total parts & labor. By now we had a flat on one of the trailer tires and four others were badly flat spotted (one was the spare from a long time ago). Only 2 of the 7 tires were still road-worthy! I had new tires intstalled on both the trailer & my truck on Friday. (Got a pretty decent 10-tire discount ) We took the truck/trailer out for a test-drive this afternoon, and everything seems to be working, but at one point, when Hubby was trying to force an error by turning the controller up to a higher output, he did get a very quick lock-up/release and the fault light did flash & beep, but it was so quick that neither one of us got a glimse of what the actual error message was. Hubby thinks that he forced it, though, rather than the controller malfunctioning. We are leaving for Oregon in two days... Please keep your fingers crossed & wish us luck!!!! And please let this be the end of the saga...........
Glad to hear everything worked out for ya.... enjoy the trip.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 12:27 PM
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Bud -

"The same company that made the Prodigy also make our factory system."

I was aware that Tekonsha makes both; the problem is finding qualified techs to troubleshoot the factory system. It's a shame that TrekChick's dealer had to get an engineer involved to solve her problem (hopefully).

Steve
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by TrekChick
Alrighty here's the latest update: Ford had a brake specialist engineer in the shop last Wednesday, and he test-drove the truck with the trailer hooked up and his diagnostic equipment plugged in. His readings indicated that the problem was in the controller itself. Thursday, the controller was replaced. I asked to have the $150 that I previously paid when they replaced the bumper plug and fuse credited, and my service advisor wrote that amount off the $450 parts price, and then gave me another 15% off the total parts & labor. By now we had a flat on one of the trailer tires and four others were badly flat spotted (one was the spare from a long time ago). Only 2 of the 7 tires were still road-worthy! I had new tires intstalled on both the trailer & my truck on Friday. (Got a pretty decent 10-tire discount ) We took the truck/trailer out for a test-drive this afternoon, and everything seems to be working, but at one point, when Hubby was trying to force an error by turning the controller up to a higher output, he did get a very quick lock-up/release and the fault light did flash & beep, but it was so quick that neither one of us got a glimse of what the actual error message was. Hubby thinks that he forced it, though, rather than the controller malfunctioning. We are leaving for Oregon in two days... Please keep your fingers crossed & wish us luck!!!! And please let this be the end of the saga...........
I am sure you will be fine.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by senix
I am sure you will be fine.
Apparently not.... as they say... Ya'all ain't gonna belive this $h*t... I left work today at 4 pm to come home and take the dog to the kennel before they close at 5 pm so that we can leave for Oregon right after work tomorrow. Parked in the driveway, loaded up the dog, got in, turned the key... and THE TRUCK WON'T START!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Argh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hubby wasn't too far away - he rushed home, we managed to get the dog to the kennel on time. Came back home and he listened to the noise the truck is making when I try to start it. He thinks either the fuel pump went out or maybe one or more of the injectors. The FICM was replaced about 16 months ago because two of the injectors weren't firing. It never made this noise that time, though. Why the "F" is this happening to me??????????????

Now I have to call for a tow truck in the morning. Can't preschedule it through AAA - have to call at 6 am if I want them here by 7 am. Luckily my office is directly across the street from the Ford service dept. I can hitch a ride on the tow truck and then walk to work. OMG, I cannot believe this is happening........ Even if they get it fixed while I'm at work tomorrow, I mean seriously, would you tow a trailer with it for 600 miles to Oregon without being able to drive it around and test it out first?????

I guess it could be worse, it could have taken a dump on me AFTER we started off to Oregon, like it did last year when the HP Oil Pump went out two hours out of town on our first day of vacation. Because of that fiasco we now have trailer towing insurance through AAA. The truck was at the out-of-town dealer for two weeks while that was getting fixed, and we had to pay some dude $100 cash to tow our 10,000-lb trailer with his lowered half-ton Chevy (that was interesting in its own sort of way) to a nearby campground for storage for two weeks.

Oh, and what about the two, yes TWO, times that the innercooler hose blew off the turbo while we were towing on the freeway on vacation?? Almost forgot about that it was so many problems ago...

It's all true; you can't make this stuff up! Just look for my old posts - it's all there in disgusting detail.

I am thinking that it is time for Ford to buy this truck back from me. What do you guys think??? Is 4.5-years and 53,000 miles too old to get the lemon law enacted? I am at the end of my rope...
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 10:56 PM
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Wow - NOBODY deserves the trouble you've had with that 350 and apparently it hasn't stopped yet! I know what you mean about not feeling real confident heading out with the 5er in tow tomorrow (and that's assuming the truck gets fixed). Good luck!!!

Don't know much about the Lemon Law but it wouldn't hurt to check it out.

Steve
 
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