So I've been driving the truck quite a bit, having a lot of fun! ... and then one day I opened the hood and about four wires from/to the voltage regulator were melted and probably could have started a fire if I didn't catch it soon enough, did they short circuit, are they not able to handle all the voltage? I have no idea what happened. It's a 12 volt system, I may post pictures later to show everyone and get some feedback. This is killing me, my high school graduation is in a few weeks and I really want to be able to drive it to that (it's always been my dream for this truck).

 

Sounds like the voltage regulator stuck/shorted out. replace the regulator and the wires. Congrats on the graduation!

 

Gallery said 1950 F-1. Even though the wires are melted, you didn't say if the battery still charges, amp meter readings. Is the wiring the old harness or has it been replace with newer wires or a after-market harness? Did you look at the regulator condition? I wonder if the wires are not the correct size for current conditions. Others will need this information to help evaluate your wiring problem. chuck

 

Let's think for a minute: There is one large wire that goes to the Armature terminal that is a #10 wire. It goes directly to the interconnection to the battery that is on the starter solenoid, another wire on this regulator terminal then goes to the generator. Then there is a smaller wire that goes from the field terminal to the generator, and another wire that goes from the regulator to the generator which is a ground terminal. It is unlikely that the field wire would be burned, or the ground wire would be burned, but if there was a condenser (capacitor) that failed on the generator, it could have shorted the armature wire to ground, heated it to burning, and the proximity of the other wires could have burned them. The ground wire, may have also overheated, but since the generator is grounded by its mounting bolts, it is not as likely. The fourth wire is to the idiot light on the dash. It is not likely that the generator itself caused the problem, and it is not likely that the regulator caused the problem, so look for the radio noise condenser and remove it. The wires from the regulator to the generator should be replaced. The regulator should be checked for the armature contact stuck (this is the big contact that is open when the truck is shut off.) It does not close until the generator is turning above idle and there is voltage being produced. If it did not open, the battery would be connected to the generator and would draw current as the generator would be trying to be a motor. This would burn up the generator, but would take 10 minutes or so, and would create some smoke toward the end.

All in all, the most you are going to need is a new generator, regulator and wiring from regulator to generator....... I'm sure these parts are all in the classifieds, I am selling two regulators....

Alan

 

Wow, Alan, what are you talking about - capacitors.....idiot lights..directly to the interconnection on the starter solenoid? Maybe you know more about his configuration than I do, but if he's running a 12 volt generator with stock wiring, I think you are talking about something else.

OK Maxwell, lets start over. 49Pickem----- is right, we need to know the type of charging system you have in your 50 F-series.

If it is a 12 volt generator with a regulator, and you have your wiring still in the stock configuration, then your 4 wires connect the ARMETURE of the Generator with the ARM tab of the regulator; the FIELD windings of the genreator with the FLD tab of the regulator, and the ground wire to ground.

From the BAT terminal of the regulator, the wire carrying the charge is routed to the BATT end of your 30 amp circuit breaker - the ignition switch is fed off this connection at the circuit breaker also (the outbound side of the 30 amp breaker feeds your headlights at the headlight switch).

There is a metal shunt that connects the 30 amp breaker BATT post to the 15 amp breaker BATT post. There is a large wire from the BATT post on the 15 amp breaker that runs through the ammeter induction loop and then to the BATT post of the starter Solenoid (the other end of the 15 amp breaker feeds dome light, running lights, and brake lights).

With the situation you described, on a generator system, your regulator has failed to regulate the amperage coming off he generator, and/or there is a short that is creating a high draw situation. Irregardless, you have too many amps flowing throught the battery wire and it got hot enough to melt the adjacent wires. And again, increasing amps is increrasing watts and watts is heat.

In this case I would disconnect the regulator and check genertator output iaw the shop manual, and ( I think I said things come in threes in Mr's John Smiths post) check your connections (especially the shunt connecting the two breakers) at the circuit breakers. Rewire with the battery wire from the regulator with 10 AWG stranded wire, and the other two (Field and Armeture) being 14 AWG stranded wire. Replace the regulator. Check for shorts in the ignition or lights circuits.

One last thing, I don't know how long you have had this set up. But, there was a way to convert the standard 35 amp generator to a 60 amp generator just by changing the pulley and you may have bought a 60 amp generator. It may be possible that you are running a 60 amp generator with a 35 amp regulator - can't do that - check your specs on each piece.

If you have an ALTERNATOR on your truck, then write back and we will "Do" alternators next time.

Good luck!

 

[quote=Julies Cool F1;751321

With the situation you described, on a generator system, your regulator has failed to regulate the amperage coming off he generator, and/or there is a short that is creating a high draw situation. Irregardless, you have too many amps flowing throught the battery wire and it got hot enough to melt the adjacent wires. And again, increasing amps is increrasing watts and watts is heat.

In this case I would disconnect the regulator and check genertator output iaw the shop manual, and ( I think I said things come in threes in Mr's John Smiths post) check your connections (especially the shunt connecting the two breakers) at the circuit breakers. Rewire with the battery wire from the regulator with 10 AWG stranded wire, and the other two (Field and Armeture) being 14 AWG stranded wire. Replace the regulator. Check for shorts in the ignition or lights circuits.

One last thing, I don't know how long you have had this set up. But, there was a way to convert the standard 35 amp generator to a 60 amp generator just by changing the pulley and you may have bought a 60 amp generator. It may be possible that you are running a 60 amp generator with a 35 amp regulator - can't do that - check your specs on each piece.

If you have an ALTERNATOR on your truck, then write back and we will "Do" alternators next time.

Good luck![/quote]

Four things, Julie,:

1. There is no way to convert a 35A Generator to a 60A Generator. The windings in the Armature determine the amp capacity of the generator. Also, the regulator is designed to allow adjustment of voltage and current within the capacity of the generator.
2. Many generators have a condenser on the armature terminal and the body of the condenser is grounded. If this condenser fails in a shorted condition, it will burn down the generator and regulator. The reason that the condenser is on the Armature terminal is to reduce noise in the radio, particularly the AM side. This is good practice and is quite common.
3. #14 wire is too small for the Armature wire. #14 is good for 15-20A max and if you have a 35A generator, it should be #10.
4. You are correct about a 52 or earlier F1 wire from the regulator Battery terminal to the dash. Many of us have done custom wiring when we rewire trucks and we do not follow the old schematics, since the 6V amp values are too high for 12V. I use a fusible link wired in the lead to the starter solenoid just like a '75 truck would use. This protects the alternator or generator in an overcurrent situation.

Regards,

Alan

 

Alan, there's a kit listed in the 48-52 Chassis Parts Catalogue for converting the 35 amp generator to 60 amp. Amperage produced by a magnetic field generator is RPM dependent not windings limited.........And I'm not even going to argue with you about the rest of your garbage.

Hey Max,

If your problem persists, I'll be more than happy to chat with you off line to help. There's just way too much stupid in this thread already for me to try to offer anything intelligent in correction, and I'm just not in the mood to argue with it this time. Write anytime - Good luck.

 

Don't make me pull this car over!