My truck started running like crap about a month ago so I gave it atune up. Plugs, wires, distributor cap ,button, & fuel filter. The back plug on the passenger side looked bad. It ran good for a little while but I knew it still wasn't right. One day it started running real bad again so I took it to my mechanic. He can't figure it out. He said something about a pick up coil that he couldn't get to because the distributor won't turn or anything. Any ideas as for what would cause this or if it could be a pick up coil going bad?

 

First off you do not have a pick-up coil, they were used with the old DS II Ignition system.
You have a PIP sensor in the Distributor and is mounted on and replaced with stator in the distributor.

Did he change the TFI Module on the side of the Distributor?

The PIP sensor is a switch and will not cause it to run bad. A bad PIP sensor will cause it not to start (no spark) or as it does most of the time the engine will run fine until the engine gets warm and then the engine will quit like you turn off the key.

The back plug on the passenger side is caused by the old bad designed upper intake manifold. Most of the time this caused a piston and cylinder failure. Ford put out a TSB on this. They had the PCV valve plunged in at the back of the intake. Ford moved the PCV hose to near the top of the intake about six inches behind the throttle body. Some have drilled and taped their intake to move the hose.

If I were you I would run the EEC self-tests both the KOEO and KOER test and read the CM codes.

If you do not know how go to the links below.

To read your CM codes or check for other types of codes and to run the self test go to one of these links below:

This is good for the KOEO test:
Ford Fuel Injection How To Run a Self-Test

This one is good for the KOER test:
Ford Fuel Injection KOER Test

Or get a code reader, here is a good one.
The EQUUS #3145
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...CodeReader.jpg

 

Thanks for that information subford. Any idea what would keep the distributor from turning other than just seezed up?

 

what part isnt turning? do you mean when you try to remove it it wont rotate out?

 

Yes the "O" ring has it stuck to the engine.
Spray some WD-40 down around it for two or three days. and it may free up.

There is a tool called a distributor puller to pull them out but other than the dealer not many places have them.

You can brake something on the distributor trying to turn a stuck distributor but do not ask how I know this.

 

My mechanic said he's been spraying the crap out of it. Hopefully it will let up soon.I need my truck! He told me he's afriad he'll break the part it's stuck in. He said it's aluminum.

 

It is stuck in cast iron, the distributor might be aluminum.

 

i have used a pipe wrench with much success but don't plan to reuse the dissy after that