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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 07:38 PM
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From: Quincy ca
no start trouble

so about a month ago my truck was warming up in the driveway and suddenly just died. Didn't sputter or nothing just dead. Carb is getting fuel but there is no spark. Coil was tested and is good dizzy is new and I replaced the icm but still won't even pop like it wants to start. I tried to cross the coil plug wire on the battery (pos to neg ) and it didn't spark at all. Thinking maybe coil wire is shot but I've never heard that ever happening . Also directly under the rotor on the distributor the shaft looks like it was welded dead center between the two arms that expand when the rpms increase. Just fried like the distributor was arcing all the way around the rotor . Any ideas ? I love the truck but if it isn't gonna run I can't use it so it'll be craigs listed and I don't wana do that I'll try to post a pic if the roasted distributor shaft. The rest of the " guts" to the pick up and reluctor and such look fine any help would be appreciated
 
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 07:38 PM
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From: Quincy ca
the truck is a 76 with the 360
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 10:30 AM
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You can run a continuity test on the coil wire easily enough if you have a volt meter.
I assume the engine turns over when you attempt to start it? How have you tested for spark?
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 10:30 AM
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You can run a continuity test on the coil wire easily enough if you have a volt meter.
I assume the engine turns over when you attempt to start it? How have you tested for spark?
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 10:20 PM
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Your resistor in your positive coil wire could have went out. Are you ruining stock ignition?
 
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Old Jan 5, 2014 | 02:53 PM
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yes I have tested for spark and there is none and had the coil tested it works great . Also tested the sires to the coil and there is power. All the way to the coil just doesn't seem like there is any power coming for the distributor. I think I may have fried the pickup in the distributor because after removing the rotor there is evedence that the cap was arching around the rotor to the actual distributor shaft (melted metal and slag on the shaft looks poorly welded)
 
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Old Jan 5, 2014 | 02:55 PM
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oh and no the system is after market high performance not stock
 
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Old Jan 5, 2014 | 04:18 PM
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Well even if you did fry the pickup you would still have about 9v going to the coil. Put your multi meter or testlight on the positive and ground the test light somewhere on the block. When the key is in the run position you should be getting between 6-9 volts. When your starter is running you should get as much that is in your battery. Tell me you're results.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2014 | 04:19 PM
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You should have full 12 volts then. Sorry didn't read the last comment.
 
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