Bad hub?
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,205
Likes: 1
From: Vancouver WA
Bad hub?
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 03-Aug-02 AT 12:53 PM (EST)]I just bought my truck a couple weeks ago and haven't really had a chance to test it out yet. But, when I lock the hubs, I get a growling noise coming from what sounds like the left front. It seems to improve somewhat when I shift into 4X4.
Does that sound like a bad hub? If so, what is involved in changing the hubs? Do I need to remove the rotors, do I need any special tools... I never had a hub problem with my Bronco, so I've never dealt with them before.
My truck is a 95 F-150.
Does that sound like a bad hub? If so, what is involved in changing the hubs? Do I need to remove the rotors, do I need any special tools... I never had a hub problem with my Bronco, so I've never dealt with them before.
My truck is a 95 F-150.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,038
Likes: 3
From: South Kitsap County, WA
Bad hub?
Sounds like you have a bad hub. When you pop it open you may find a few broken pieces, maybe some corrosion and gunk. It may even be just the spring has gone snap. In any case you'll have to remove the hub and its associated guts.
Do you have the manually locking hubs? Sounds like you do. Special tools include a set of outside snapring pliers and a special apptitude for removing small pieces that are hidden in grooves. There is another lock ring on the inside of the hub body. You don't have to remove the rotor, but it may not hurt if you want to get all of the grease out, if it's contaminated.
The rotor removal requires a special socket that can be purchased at most auto parts stores for around $10-15, it could also be a rental item. This is to remove and reinstall the bearing retaining locknuts. I'd also pick up a torque wrench 0-250 ft-lbs, you'll need it to torque the bearing locknuts if you do pull the rotor.
-Kerry
Do you have the manually locking hubs? Sounds like you do. Special tools include a set of outside snapring pliers and a special apptitude for removing small pieces that are hidden in grooves. There is another lock ring on the inside of the hub body. You don't have to remove the rotor, but it may not hurt if you want to get all of the grease out, if it's contaminated.
The rotor removal requires a special socket that can be purchased at most auto parts stores for around $10-15, it could also be a rental item. This is to remove and reinstall the bearing retaining locknuts. I'd also pick up a torque wrench 0-250 ft-lbs, you'll need it to torque the bearing locknuts if you do pull the rotor.
-Kerry
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
79_xlt
2004 - 2008 F150
5
Nov 29, 2014 09:08 PM
omni
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
7
Feb 27, 2006 01:26 AM
