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VSS Again??

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Old May 18, 2009 | 12:52 PM
  #16  
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Layson
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From: Millersburg, OR
but it will set a code that you can get from a code reader. It will tell you LF or RF... Autozone might beable to do that for you...

You can check the connection right behind the inner fender liner. It clips to the back of the fender liner. Right on the lower portion where your mudflap would be...only located farther in towards the motor. I think it is the only thing that clips back there.. It also connects up on the frame and then joins to the brake line and vacuum line for the hubs...
 
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Old May 20, 2009 | 11:17 PM
  #17  
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TPM
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From: San Diego
You have to hear what everyone is saying. There are three things that can cause this - a sensor, a wire or a speedometer gear. You have one sensor called the VSS and two wheel sensors. The wires or connector going to the VSS can be open (broken) and that will cause the erratic and intermittent problem.

The same wire or connector problem can happen with the wheel sensors.

The drive gear for the speedometer can also be worn or damaged and cause the same bucking type of behavior.

You can test the integrity of a wire by disconnecting the wireharness connector and using an ohmmeter and a straight pin, push the pin into the wire upstram of the connector and check continuity between the connector pin and the straight pin. If the molded factory connector is broken you'll read an open (no ohms) and you can get another bare lead connector from the dealer and splice it in.
 
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Old May 21, 2009 | 01:48 AM
  #18  
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There is no gear drive for the speedometer.

The speed is computed using the signal from the VSS.

Pop
 
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Old May 21, 2009 | 07:38 AM
  #19  
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SteveO.
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From: Lapeer, Michigan
Done!

I was going to replace the pigtail to the VSS to see if that was my problem, but that part is not availiable at the parts store. Dealer part only.

I decided to take it in because I need my truck for this weekend! It turned out it was indeed a wiring problem. The wire going to the VSS was cracked in serveral locations. The dealer gave me a section of it with two cracks in it. No explaination of how/why it happened. $189.00 out the door. Could of been worse. I probably would of only seen 1 or 2 of the breaks and the problem would still be driving me nuts!!

Thanks for everyone's input!

Enjoy your holiday weekend!!

SteveO.
 
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Old May 21, 2009 | 10:45 PM
  #20  
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TPM
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From: San Diego
buy a spare connector with bare leads. I think I paid $5.00 for one. The dealer sells an aftermarket line of connectors to match the stock ones.

That part, two butt splices, a piece of heat shrink, some silicone jell (on the butt splices and under the heat shrink) and 15 minutes and its fixed.
 
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