Okay, heres the deal, I have 5k and need to keep approx 500.00 for gas/insurance so i basically have 4.5k and I can't decide if I should get an older like f150 or chevy 1500 (Like 89-93, somewhere in there) with lower miles (anywhere from 80k-130k) for cheaper so then I will have the money to get a lift/tires ect ect or if I should get a nicer, newer truck and just save up my money for the lift/tires ect.

So what are your guys's opinions on that? What are the benefits/negatives in your guys's opinions?
Thanks,
Tyler.

 

Why don't you try and find a lifted truck in your price range?

 

Well $4500 should get you at least a mid 90's F150 if not a late 90's depending on options. This is also a Ford site so you aren't going to get many, if any, C#$%y ideas.

 

We have talked before!,..........Get as low mile as possible early 90s F-series. Your a young guy who wants to learn mechanics, get something old school enough you can still work on it and has at least some CPU to help diagnose trouble........As for that Chevy, remember what we were telling you about that 700r4 trans.!....E4ODs are not the best trans, but they are better than the 700r4 thats for sure.

 

Deja Vu all over again...I remember seeing this same question asked before. Ditto the above.

 

Lol yes, and that is what I was going to do, but then my dad wanted me to "be smart about it" and get a newer one for some reason. But here is the ones in my area (There really isin't to much out there right now) do you think any of these are actually worth looking at? I need to call and get more info about them still though.

1993 Ford F150 Ext. Cab XLT
1990 Ford F 150
1991 Ford F150 XLT Lariat
1989 FORD F150
1995 Ford F-150 XLT
1993 Ford F150 XLT 4x4 extended cab truck
1989 CHEVY 4X4 X-CAB
1989 CHEVY 4X4 X-CAB

 

You nail that 95 EB F-150 before I roll out there and grab it!......Even better if it has the 351w!.

 

I'm with Dave on this one...The EB looks like the best of them. Next would be the '93 you listed just below it.

 

haha okay thank you! I will email him since he does not have a # posted on there and hopefully go and take a look/test drive it very soon.

I also had some questions that are very dumb, but I do not know the answers to them so yeah.
What size rim will I generally need for 33's? Will 15in wheels fit them? If I got 33's then will my spedometer be off enough to where I need to change it and if so what all do I do to make it accurate?
When adding a lift, suspension or body, I would like to do it myself, but would I probably be better off having someone else do it? I have people that know what they are doing mechanically who could probably help, but i'm not sure. Also, I know body lifts most people hate, but they are cheaper, and can't you get something to lift the bumpers to? (I'm going to do more research on different lifts)

Thanks for all your help bud.

 

First of all, the 33s come in different rim sizes but the 15s will probably be more affordable. I ran 32x11.50s on my '89 with no lift and no rub. The 33s will throw your speedometer off but you'll need to get it calibrated to see how much. On my '89, it threw it off by almost 20 MPH. There is a nylon gear on the end of the speedometer cable where it hooks into the side of the transmission. You'll need to find out how much your speed is off (calibration) and then get the appropriate nylon replacement gear. You should be able to go to any auto parts store and get the replacement. And, if you take the calibration with you, they should be able to tell you which gear you'll need. I did mine several years ago and they're very easy to change out. Just follow the speedometer cable down to the side of the tranny and go from there...no special tools were needed.

The lift kits are a different story. You can do a suspension lift yourself on these trucks with the right tools and some lifting help. If you do, make sure your first stop after the install is the alignment shop. Body lifts are cheaper and the bumpers can be moved accordingly to hide the body lift. I personally don't like a body lift but that's just me and you should go with what your wallet allows as long as it's safe.

Also, remember if you install the larger tires with the same gearing, you're going to notice a drop in power and mileage.

 

If my eyes are not deceiving me, the 95 EB F-150 is a long bed ex-cab 4x2!....I have NEVER seen one here before, all SB 4X4s and 4x2s in ex/ reg. cab......I would snap that sucker up in a minute, if it was here!..........On your question about tires, there are plenty of 33 x 15s, and you will have to re-calibrate your speedo/odometer for them. (sounds like you are set on a 4x4.).......BTW, John is absolutely correct, the 33s will suck your power down dramatically without re-gearing for them.

 

oh haha i did not even notice it being a 4x2 and yes, im set on a 4x4! hmm ill ask, but if it is a 4x2 then it is out of the question :/. Powerstroke is the reason you are against body lifts and for suspension is bc a suspension actually lifts the whole thing instead of the body, so it looks better and helps performance wise?

 

That's part of it. The other part is I am not exactly comfortable with the cab and bed sitting on stilts between the frame and body. I've no doubt that they're designed to be plenty strong but I like the body mounted as directly to the frame as the factory does it. The suspension lift gives you more ground clearance between the frame and its components like the fuel tank, tranny, transfer case, radiator, just to name a few. The body lift give you more clearance bwtween the body and the ground. Hey, to each their own and I understand doing things on a budget. If that's your budget and it only allows for a body lift, like I said, as long as it's done right and is safe, go for it.

My preference is function before form, if that makes sense. I'm more concerned with it working right than looking pretty, if you know what I mean. You might also check into a leveling kit if they even still have them for those model years. They used to though and they had front coil spacers and a drop bracket for the TTB if I remember correctly. And, it wasn't too expensive. If you did one of those, you'd be fine with the 33s, I would think. The rear on those trucks sits high enough to fit 33s without a problem...it's the front that needs a little rise.

 

You need to figure out what YOU want, buying a truck shouldn't be a democratic process.

 

Gas is over $2 a gallon again and I expect it to hit $3 before fall 2009.

If I had that amount of cash, I would buy a Ford Ranger (if you needed a truck) 1983-1997 4x4 2.3L with a 5 speed. Cost about $2000. Run 31s and upgrade the rear to an Explorer 8.8 with discs and selectable locker.