stereo diagram
the underhood light (if equipped) and any of a number of other devices that
always require power. The wiring is very similar to your house wiring; just
because there's a toaster oven plugged into one kitchen outlet doesn't mean you
can't also plug a can opener into the same circuit somewhere else.

Do a google search on how to solder and splice wires and cover with heat-shrink
tubing, it's the best way of splicing into an existing circuit.
Nevertheless, try:
WalMart
eBay
Crutchfield
Sure, you can! It's an always-on circuit and powers radio memory, clock memory,
the underhood light (if equipped) and any of a number of other devices that
always require power. The wiring is very similar to your house wiring; just
because there's a toaster oven plugged into one kitchen outlet doesn't mean you
can't also plug a can opener into the same circuit somewhere else.

Do a google search on how to solder and splice wires and cover with heat-shrink
tubing, it's the best way of splicing into an existing circuit.
When I go to connect the wire,where should I connect it too?the main wire at the headlight switch?
should be readily available in some connectors behind the center console (e.g. for the clock).
Don't make things harder than they need to be, man.
OK, here is what I did to install a mid-80s electronic radio into my 1981 F350...
Like you, I also had some of the wiring harness that connected to the electronic radio, so
I had both sides of the connector.
I went to a junkyard and cut off the pigtail from an early-model radio, the kind that was
originally available in these trucks. I then soldered the two connectors together + spliced
in a G/Y always-on feed:
The orange power-antenna wire, I merely shrunk a bit of heat-shrink tubing on the end
and "capped it off" as such.
The black cylinder is a capacitor acting as a noise filter. It's probably not necessary as I
already have a capacitor on my engine coil but I figure another can't hurt.
The LB/R circuit splice you see there... I wouldn't normally splice into a wire *there* that
is heading back into the harness to go power something else, that splice at that location
keeps me from removing (unplugging) the 2-wire radio connector at the harness; but, the
wire (pigtail) was already cut there, and I decided to use wires that were already cut
instead of making more splices.
Besides, the G/Y splice *also* runs past that 2-wire connector, I haven't added any inline
connectors to *that* wire, either. All this means is that the factory-supplied radio plug
along with my adaptation to convert it to a mid-80s variant are going to stay there
probably forever and it's just my **** retentiveness that bugs me.
Here are some more pics of how I generally do splices:
To pretty it all up, I bundle everything inside of one of those plastic wire looms:
EDIT: I should also add that I replaced my wiring harness last year, this left me with the
old one to use factory-color-keyed wires from.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I'm not too worried about going back to factory,so i'm just gonna convert to the 85 plug.Also,I see your plug has the Orange wire.The connector from the F250 didn't even have that wire,so it's dead at the radio side of the connector,which means I won't have to worry about that one.
Thanks again for the pics,i'm gonna go to work on it tomorrow and hopefully get it all finished by Sunday.









