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6.4L Power Stroke Diesel Engine fitted to 2008 - 2010 F250, F350 and F450 pickup trucks and F350 + Cab Chassis

Fuel Filter Maintance

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Old May 13, 2009 | 08:02 PM
  #16  
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If you don't drain the system like that, will you still lose 1.5 gallons of fuel when you remove the frame mounted filter cap?
 
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Old May 13, 2009 | 09:07 PM
  #17  
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I would say yes. In the past, I would do a cursory drain and followed by a diesel shower when I struggled to remove the conveniently located rail mounted filter.

Draining until virtually nothing comes out of the hose has made the last couple of changes almost pleasant.
 
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Old May 13, 2009 | 11:49 PM
  #18  
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Just changed my filters today. Had less than a 1/4 tank and vented the cap before i started. I didn't drain from the separator and when I pulled off the frame rail cap I only had about a litre of fuel drip out.
 
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Old May 14, 2009 | 07:44 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by fordsd350
I like my diesel truck, but don't want to smell like one, so I:

1. Attach a 6" piece of fuel line to the seperator's drain and allow fuel to drain into a 2 gal. bucket.

2. Shortly after starting to drain, I loosen the engine mounted filter cap.

I really feel that using the hose and "venting" the engine mounted filter helps in draining down the rail filter. In total, I probably drain off about 1.5 gallons of fuel. Don't want to offend global warming idiots by waisting our precious resources, so I use it to kill weeds.

I went from taking diesel baths to not much more than a few drips.

WOW, I get about 4 oz.
 
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Old May 14, 2009 | 07:50 AM
  #20  
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I did get more than 4 oz myself. The filter area is full of fuel so that has to drain off. Not a big deal but does require a gallon bucket.
 
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Old May 14, 2009 | 08:55 AM
  #21  
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When I change mine I started by draining the frame filter from the yellow lever but it wouldn't stop, so I drove the front of the truck up on ramps and then drained there was only a pint that came and then it stopped, so it helped to raise the front of the truck.
 
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Old May 14, 2009 | 08:00 PM
  #22  
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I remember reading somewhere to crack one of the lines while you are cycling the key? Does this sound right to bleed the air out of the lines?
 
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Old May 14, 2009 | 08:37 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by UGA33
I remember reading somewhere to crack one of the lines while you are cycling the key? Does this sound right to bleed the air out of the lines?
Nope, you'll never get the air out doing that. Just cycling the system will work.

Some other models have a bleed value but not this one.
 
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Old May 23, 2009 | 02:08 PM
  #24  
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OK guys, did my first fuel filter change out today. Thanks for all the suggestion, it really helped.

Attached a plastic/vinyl drain line to the spigot on the water drain mechanism at the rail filter. Flipped the lever and drained less than a pint of fuel out into a gallon jug.

Figured I would start with the rail filter first. Thought if I started with the top side filter it would drain too much fuel out of the system once air got in the lines.

Took a little maneuvering of the rail filter cap to get the filter loose and out, had to push the brake line out of the way a little bit. Kind of tight quarters in there! Did not forget to oil the o-rings.

The 36 mm socket with a u-joint worked great to loosen and retighten the rail filter cap.

The torque requirements were printed with the replacement instructions that came with the new filters, 20 ft-lbs.

Purged the air out and re-pressurized the fuel system per instructions in the owner’s manual, "turn key to start position and leave it there for about 30 sec., do this six times". Engine started right up no problems.

Again, thanks for all your suggestions, they made the job a lot easier than I thought it would be.
 
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Old May 23, 2009 | 04:36 PM
  #25  
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great it worked for you.
 
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Old May 28, 2009 | 08:37 PM
  #26  
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Question for you guys that have changed your fuel filters. On the filter on the frame, did you move the wire harness out of the way or don't you need to?
 
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Old May 28, 2009 | 08:42 PM
  #27  
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just push it back a little and you should be able to squeeze the socket in there. It is tight but once you get it turning then it will be easier
 
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Old Jul 17, 2009 | 02:42 PM
  #28  
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Anybody know anything about these fuel filters. They are cheap but might be pretty crappy. And if anyone has any better ideas on what and where to get them I am open to suggestions.

http://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/P...Pdf-10263.aspx
 
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Old Jul 17, 2009 | 02:46 PM
  #29  
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I would only go with the motorcraft. Some aftermarkets don't fit right.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2009 | 11:01 PM
  #30  
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Doesn't the Motorcraft filter for the frame unit have a bleed hole that needs to be pointed up for air to bleed past?

I'm looking to do my filters soon as well.
 
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