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I would say yes. In the past, I would do a cursory drain and followed by a diesel shower when I struggled to remove the conveniently located rail mounted filter.
Draining until virtually nothing comes out of the hose has made the last couple of changes almost pleasant.
Just changed my filters today. Had less than a 1/4 tank and vented the cap before i started. I didn't drain from the separator and when I pulled off the frame rail cap I only had about a litre of fuel drip out.
I like my diesel truck, but don't want to smell like one, so I:
1. Attach a 6" piece of fuel line to the seperator's drain and allow fuel to drain into a 2 gal. bucket.
2. Shortly after starting to drain, I loosen the engine mounted filter cap.
I really feel that using the hose and "venting" the engine mounted filter helps in draining down the rail filter. In total, I probably drain off about 1.5gallons of fuel. Don't want to offend global warming idiots by waisting our precious resources, so I use it to kill weeds.
I went from taking diesel baths to not much more than a few drips.
When I change mine I started by draining the frame filter from the yellow lever but it wouldn't stop, so I drove the front of the truck up on ramps and then drained there was only a pint that came and then it stopped, so it helped to raise the front of the truck.
OK guys, did my first fuel filter change out today. Thanks for all the suggestion, it really helped.
Attached a plastic/vinyl drain line to the spigot on the water drain mechanism at the rail filter. Flipped the lever and drained less than a pint of fuel out into a gallon jug.
Figured I would start with the rail filter first. Thought if I started with the top side filter it would drain too much fuel out of the system once air got in the lines.
Took a little maneuvering of the rail filter cap to get the filter loose and out, had to push the brake line out of the way a little bit. Kind of tight quarters in there! Did not forget to oil the o-rings.
The 36 mm socket with a u-joint worked great to loosen and retighten the rail filter cap.
The torque requirements were printed with the replacement instructions that came with the new filters, 20 ft-lbs.
Purged the air out and re-pressurized the fuel system per instructions in the owner’s manual, "turn key to start position and leave it there for about 30 sec., do this six times". Engine started right up no problems.
Again, thanks for all your suggestions, they made the job a lot easier than I thought it would be.
Question for you guys that have changed your fuel filters. On the filter on the frame, did you move the wire harness out of the way or don't you need to?
Anybody know anything about these fuel filters. They are cheap but might be pretty crappy. And if anyone has any better ideas on what and where to get them I am open to suggestions.