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I would take the couple minutes and check for the updated connector any way.ICP Sensor Problems:
This is now covered by Customer Satisfaction Program 03B05. It applies to trucks build through 2-3-03. The program will be in affect until 12-31-05. Ford is authorizing a free oil and filter change under this program until 12-31-03.
Some 6.0 PowerStroke engines may exhibit rough/rolling idle, poor idle return, lack of power, injector fault codes or excessive smoke. This may be caused by the ICP sensor reading incorrectly. The ICP sensor and connector terminals should be inspected for damage (the ICP is at the rear of the engine, under the turbo), and the sensor circuits checked for opens or shorts. With the engine at operating temperature (engne oil above 180 degrees), the ICP sensor signal should be 0.16-0.28 volts (less than 70 PSI) with the key on and engine off. The engine needs to be off for at least two minutes for this test. If the ICP signal is not within this range, replace the sensor with P/N 3C3Z-9F838-EA. After that one is this one ICP/EBP Sensor Repair Kit:
Both PowerStroke engines may exhibit codes related to the ICP(7.3: P1280; 6.0: P2285) and/or EBP sensors (P0472). If these codes are present, clear them. Start the engine and wiggle the sensor connector that matches the stored code. If the code returns, replace the sensr connector--P/N 3C3Z-12224-BA for 94-96; 3C3Z-12224-AA for 97-2004. Broadcast Message 1078/SSM #17573. And I think there is another on the icp connectir as well.
Thanks Brickie. I am having trouble exposing the wires. I can only see that one of em is purple. The other two appear to be wraped in black tape. I sure dont want to end up breaking the wire loose. I will try some more later today or try a pin check if i can find the other end.
Mhays.. I have looked and can not find one that is close. Most of em just want to start replacing injectors.
I had the same issue with my 01 f150. I would be driving down the hwy and all the sudden it would start cutting out. Took to the shop 4 times and finally they found the wiring harness was cut. Took two techs to drive with a computer installed in the truck to find the problem.
Ok brickie, Took out the EGR and it looked good. Only a light dusting of powery soot like you would see in your tail pipe. Looking into the intake, there does not appear to be very much soot or tar like stuff in there. But, the bottom oring on the EGR has a large nick out of it and a couple small ones. It could have happened when i removed the unit but looks more like it was nicked up during installation. How i guess i will have to wait till Monday to get the orings. I also removed the hose at the MAP and had a lot of trouble blowing through it so I completly removed the hose. The hose is clear with no obstructions bot the nipple that comes out of the intake was all gummed up so I cleaned it out. How I guess i have to wait on those orings and see if my efforts have paid off.
I had the same problem it would die or almost die then after shutting off and restarting some times more than once it would run fine for who knows how long took it too dealer I got very lucky and I happened to break down in a town with an excellent tech. He played with the wires replaced the wiring harnes and my troubles ended.
Well....got the orings and put the egr back in and test drove it....No change. It still has a rough idle, no power on take off and no power till you get her up past 1500 rpms. Any more ideals?
When was the oil last changed, and how rough is the idle?At 1500 the power should start to come on but it should be very smooth until a kick in around 2300 range(varies on a tuned truck).Is it a total dog or just not running smooth? The oil and coking of injectors and VGT actuator is what comes to mind for me.
Oil change was done about 500 miles ago. The truch has a rough idle more noticable when you put it in gear. When taking off from a stand still, she dont even want to move, soon as she gets going above 1500 rpm she does ok and if ya put your foot in it she takes off real good. Now when you are traveling around 60mph and put her in cruise control,(about 1700 rpm), she will vibrate real bad. I can accelerate and she takes off as you would expect. All of this is with out a load. As long as i keep my foot in her you dont know that anything is wrong. When I changed the oil I also added Lucus to the fuel.
The VGT actuator is one of the items the ford tech replaced. What do I do for coking?
sounds like you do have a injector failing. not very many things will cause rough idle on these except for injectors/base engine concern. egr no, vgt actuator no, etc. it is very possible that the truck is skipping and there will be no code. the 03s were smart as a rock when it came to self diagnosis, but with a smart tech they can get to the bottom of this.
also it has been rare, but i have seen icp sensors cause intermitent rough idling issues but noramlly it is accompanied with a ck engine lt. if you can, unplug the icp sensor and check for oil. any oil is bad, and the icp sensor needs replacement. depending on the condition of the connector most of the time it can be cleaned and dryed.
I have also found that the tech replaced the plug on the VGT actuator by cutting off the old one and replacing it with a used one by splicing it on and black electical tape! The wires are not even the same color code and the plug looks like ****.