What is the correct procedure for installing a Traction-Lok diff into a 7.5" rear end of a 1990 Ranger? How long does it take, any special tools required?

Andy

 

To install a trac lock differential in a axle your be able to get away with just basic tools and a dial indicator with either a magnetic base or a vice grip base.

Take the rear cover off your axle and drain it out.

rotate the axle shafts till the bolt in the cross pin can be taken out.

Remove the cross pin.

Push in the axle shafts and remove the c-clips

Pull the axles

now looking at the rear of the axle housing you'll see four bolts

Remove them and make sure you keep the caps aligned how they are

keep the caps on the same side, with the same side up

Wedge a prybar into the axle carier and pry the old carrier out.

BE CAREFULL NOT TO DROP THE SHIM PACKS ON EITHER SIDE OF THE DIFFERENTIAL

set those aside on their respective sides,,,don't mess them up as you'll need them again.

Take the old carrier and remove all the bolts to take the ring gear off of it.

The easiest way i found was to remove the bolts about half way, than tap on the heads of them lightly side to side to remove the gear.

Take the ring gear now that you've removed it from the carrier and clean it with brake cleaner. Get as much of the gear lube off as possible. This will insure a happy wife, girlfriend, or mother in the next step.

(note) If you have a axle with a velocity ring in it, you'll need to install it at this time while the gears heating up


Put the ring gear in the oven in your kitchen and turn it on to about 400 degrees.

Leave it in there for about 45 minutes, this heats the gear and when a gear gets hot it expands, making it easier to install on the new trac lock.

Grab the gear out of the oven with a pair of welding gloves and set the gear over the new carrier.

Align the carrier with the ring gear and install all the bolts finger tight

Tighten the bolts in a star pattern to the correct torque

the gear should now be tight to the carrier.

Install the track lock carrier back into the axle

Install the shim packs back where they were to begin with

and reinstal the caps where they were

Tighten the caps, don't torque them yet,

Mount the dial indicator so that the probe contacts a tooth on the ring gear

Rock the ring gear back and forth to see how much play is between the ring gear and the pinion.

If its within the acceptable limits torque the caps and put the axles back in

If not, move a small shim from one side to the other and try again.

After you get it done put gear lube in and don't forget a bottle of friction modifier.

You should be all set.


Let me know if you need any other help.

Ryan50hrl(No Email Addresses In Posts!)

 

What about using the white paste to check the tooth pattern to make sure it's correct. I know i'd like to double check it before I cause premature wear.


Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

Thats it for now, saving for a stang. Check out my Gallery for a look-see.


Justin - One Happy FTE Member

 

Since he's not dismounting the pinion only re-installing the ring on a new carrier, the fore and aft setup doesn't change. If the side to side setup is brought into spec, the contact pattern SHOULD be fine, although it never hurts to check.

One thing I would add though: take a backlash measurement on the existing setup before teardown. When you re-install, re-install to the same backlash or as close as possible. Once a contact area has been established on a R&P, you want to keep it the same to maximize life.

 

All i'm saying is you never know 100% for sure unless you check it.


Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

Thats it for now, saving for a stang. Check out my Gallery for a look-see.


Justin - One Happy FTE Member

 

If you use the white paste anyway, most of the mid-seventies era Chiltons books show what to look for.

 

I would definately use the paste, and I would also RETORQUE the bearing caps to proper spec BEFORE you check the backlash. When building a rear end that is a common and oft overlooked step. You should retorque everything to spec before checking backlash, pinion preload, and wear pattern. If any are out of spec, then the diff needs to be torn down and rebuilt. It can be a PITA, but long R&P life demands patience. Good Luck!

 

If you don't unbolt the pinion, you don't need to use the "paste". They only use of that is to check pinion depth and without removing the pinion, you'll never change that by just pulling the carrier.

Ryan

 

I thouht it was to check pinion depth AND backlash? You can't change the pinion depth by removing the carrier, but there might be a touch difference if he is replacing carriers, if it was me I'd check just to be 100% positive and no doubts.


Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

Thats it for now, saving for a stang. Check out my Gallery for a look-see.


Justin - One Happy FTE Member

 

NO....the paste is used only to check pinion depth. A dial indicator is used to check backlash. Regardless of backlash...you'll always get the same contact pattern.

Ryan

 

Not trying to be a pain but I just want to make sure, my Ford dealership manual has a page of the correct tooth patterns for the gears. With the marking compound, you will see if the backlash is correct by the drive/coast side's heel and toe markings.

Decreasing backlash moves the ring gear closer to the drive pinion. The drive pattern moves slightly lower and toward the toe. The coast pattern moves lower and toward the toe.

Increasing backlash moves the ring gear away from the drive pinion. The drive pattern moves slightly higher and toward the heel. Then coast pattern moves higher and towards the heel.

You do check the backlash with a dial indicator, but the results show up in the marking compound is what I'm saying (double checking) which is what I was getting to earlier.

So according to my Ford manual, you are incorrect, backlash does change the contact pattern. But you are correct in that a dial indicator is used to check backlash. Using the marking compound is used when your think you're done, and you want to make sure the pinion depth AND the backlash are both correct and you're ready to bolt the cover on.

Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

Thats it for now, saving for a stang. Check out my Gallery for a look-see.


Justin - One Happy FTE Member

 

I am with MustangGT on this one, backlash WILL change a contact pattern. Or if the ring gear is too close or far from the pinion it WILL make a difference in the wear pattern, lust like mustangGT says in his good description. CHECK THE WEAR PATTERN EVERY TIME!!! Why take a chance when a 5 minute check will guarantee your good to go?