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Properly clocking fuel sending units..

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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 07:22 PM
  #1  
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greasemonkey060
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Properly clocking fuel sending units..

So after going out, I replaced the fuel pump on my girlfriends 92 Ranger (2.3L, 2wd, manual, etc etc.). And sure as ***** I didn't pay attention to which way the sending unit was "Clocked" before I removed it. And of course the gauge isn't reading right because the float wont properly come up past "half tank full".

I haven't had a chance to pull the tank and down right just figure it out, but can anyone tell me how the sending unit needs to be properly "clocked", for example which way the float points in the tank (towards the front, towards driver side, pass side, etc).???

Thanks!
 
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 07:08 AM
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From: suburban atlanta
It should only fit one way. The tabs and indents should make it difficult, if not impossible to install it incorrectly. Is it possible that you got the wires mashed between the tank and the frame or bed? Are you absolutely sure that they gave you the correct sending unit?
The hoses/wires/connectors on the top of the sending unit should give you a big hint as to which way it should be installed. The wires and snap-on fuel/vent connectors will likely only allow you to install it in one way or they would not reach or would be difficult to connect. Again, more likely is a semi-grounded wire or a bad connection. Unless you bent the float arm while maneuvering it into place.
I really think you'd know if it was not clocked correctly when you went to connect it.
tom
 
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by tomw
It should only fit one way. The tabs and indents should make it difficult, if not impossible to install it incorrectly. Is it possible that you got the wires mashed between the tank and the frame or bed? Are you absolutely sure that they gave you the correct sending unit?
The hoses/wires/connectors on the top of the sending unit should give you a big hint as to which way it should be installed. The wires and snap-on fuel/vent connectors will likely only allow you to install it in one way or they would not reach or would be difficult to connect. Again, more likely is a semi-grounded wire or a bad connection. Unless you bent the float arm while maneuvering it into place.
I really think you'd know if it was not clocked correctly when you went to connect it.
tom
It's the same sending unit as what I pulled out, I just replaced the fuel pump. You would think that it only goes in one way.. (It was a few weeks ago so I may be wrong) but from what I remember the whole sending unit can be clocked any 360 degrees in the opening. Again it was awhile ago so I may be wrong, however I don't remember any indexing tabs as I wouldn't be that dumb to not notice. Or maybe I am! Ha. I'm certain It's not a pinched wire because after filling it (well over half) with gas, the needle moves properly like it should but just "stops" at half tank. Which makes me assume that the float isn't properly floating to the top which I assume is caused by not properly clocking the sending unit.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 11:19 AM
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After some time to ponder, here's some more.
I changed the whole shebang in my wifes car several years ago. What a pain. Used BIG pilers to loosen the retaining ring, no hammer nor punch. What I remember is that there was a tab that stuck up, literally vertical, on the top of the tank. The tab made the sending unit unable to be installed incorrectly. You just couldn't do it and get it to fit.
If you replaced the pump, I'd bet that you left something in the way of the float arm, or it got dislodged from its pivot, or the pivot sheet metal is bent so it runs into the arm.
The way to test is to ground the wire that goes to the fuel gauge, and it should show a full tank.
What does it matter if it doesn't show full, if you think about it. You really want it to show when the fuel level is low, so you know when you need to refuel. That was why I had to replace my sending unit. The gauge would not go down to empty gradually, and all of a sudden it would.
Now that you have done the process, it should not take you long to repeat it, [chuckle], though it is a real pain as far as I am concerned. Much like the rack and pinion that has to be replaced again because it leaks after 28k miles, and all day job minimum.
tom
 
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 04:02 PM
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Everyone I have changed and that is dozens upon dozens have locating tabs so you cannot clock it wrong. You do have to watch out and make sure you didn't get something in the way of the arm or the arm got bent during the change or it slipped out of the sender mechanizm. Anyway you go it has to come out to see what is wrong. On the old tin float models I did put one of those on backwards once, That one the tank would not read full about 3/4's. Good luck
 
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 04:23 PM
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It's possible the slosh can is hanging the float arm. I think you have to 'snake' it through an aperature that is rather small, in both directions, and then the pivot point is close enough to the diameter to allow for full travel. The slosh can is used to keep the fuel relatively near the fuel pickup on cornering and acceleration. Fuel can come in easily, but cannot ALL run away when you step on brakes, gas, or corner..
tom
 
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 02:11 PM
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Hmmmmmm. Sounds like I'm just going to have to pull the tank again and take a stab at it. I'm sure once it's out I can figure it out from there If not I'll just take some pics and post em for questioning.

Thanks!
 
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 03:42 PM
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One other thing to check would be to see if the float or float arm isn't being stopped by the fuel filler hose. There is a smaller fuel filler hose that runs inside the larger filler hose. This smaller hose extends into the tank a ways and is supposed to help avoid splash back when you get gas. Anyway, it extends into the tank and curves downward but I think it gets in the way of the float arm travel and either helps give a false reading or it won't let the arm swing all the way up to show full when it should. After I cut some off of it I had no more problems with the indication. This happened after I replaced the filler hose with a new one after my original started leaking from age. Also, about "pulling the tank", there's an easier way. Take the bed off and you can be into the tank in about 20 - 30 minutes. Not sure if you knew about that or if it's not an option for some reason.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 05:47 PM
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From: Reno nv
actually don't have to take the bed all the way off, but at least up enough to get your arms under it for the gas tank. I raise mine up about a foot with some tire ramps.
 
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Old May 1, 2009 | 06:39 AM
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Quote:"I raise mine up about a foot with some tire ramps."

But, but, how do you get the bed to drive up on the ramps???


heh.

Sounds like a lazy mans way to get the job done. I'm all for that. Plus, the bed weighs a lot, especially for one person to tackle.

tom
 
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Old May 1, 2009 | 05:44 PM
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first you get the ramps to levitate about 20 3/4 in the air. not 20 1/2 or 21 because it just won't work. then accelerate up to 63 mph in reverse and hit them ramps square on and whoa baby that bed just goes up purty as you can please.

I actually use the floor jack with the ramp already on it to lift the front of the bed since the truck is stock height. Unless the boy is helping, then him and I raise it by hand and park it on the rear tires.
 
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