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I know this has been brought up many times on this forum but I wanted to try to get some fresh ideas. I am thinking of upgrading to disk brakes and want to drop the truck a couple of inches ('66 F100). If I go with a new brake setup (from a 70's ford) how can I drop it in the front and what will I need to do? I want to drop it about 3" or so. Thanks for the help.
You could use the 03-07 Crown Victoria mod which will drop you about 5 inches BUT you have to be able and willing to cut out your existing engine cross member and box at least part of the front frame, You will also need to switch to Mopar (Charger) 16 inch wheels which seem to have the correct offset AND they clear the larger discs. You do gain a power rack and pinion but you will need to install a power steering pump and hoses and install a power brake booster. It seems like it's a better bet than the drop i beams on the market and doesn't seem as extensive as the Dakota front install. I haven't done a drop but I have done the brake swap from a 75 F150 including the front discs, booster, dual master cylinder, lines, and installed the wider rear drums and associated parts.
You could use the 03-07 Crown Victoria mod which will drop you about 5 inches BUT you have to be able and willing to cut out your existing engine cross member and box at least part of the front frame, You will also need to switch to Mopar (Charger) 16 inch wheels which seem to have the correct offset AND they clear the larger discs. You do gain a power rack and pinion but you will need to install a power steering pump and hoses and install a power brake booster. It seems like it's a better bet than the drop i beams on the market and doesn't seem as extensive as the Dakota front install. I haven't done a drop but I have done the brake swap from a 75 F150 including the front discs, booster, dual master cylinder, lines, and installed the wider rear drums and associated parts.
I'm researching this same thing for my 66 F100 shorty. Late model Mustang or Crown Vic wheels would also work on this but they won't work on the stock rearend without a 5.5 to 4.5 adapter/spacer which would need to probably be at least 2" thick to compete with the front wheels or swap the rear end for a later model that is wider. I think the CV swap is probably less expensive and maybe a little less labor intensive than the Dakota swap but the difference in cost may be made up in the wheels and tires dilemna. I'm still sorting it out.....
Could always drop a couple of inches by just going with some low profile tires. Drop beams and low profile tires could also give 5" of drop without cutting up your ride.
I agree that using the drop beams would be a less destructive way to go but have read mixed reviews on both the DJM and AIM drop beams. SOme have them adn they had good luck but I have read that there may be some quality control issues. I have researched all of the methods and IF I were to do a drop I would chop away and use the bolt in 03-07 Crown Vic front end and not the older Crown Vic frames that require you to cut off the front of your truck frame. Most people are picking up the Crown Vic front end for around $500. The Industrial Chassis crossmember ($675) for the Dakota install may be more robust but it looks to require some pretty intensive measuring and welding. All will work but it depends on what fits with an individuals skills and budget and wants.
Ok that's what I am confused on. If I want a basic drop for now and stay with drums, what drop beams can I buy and where can I get them from? If I go to disc brakes, do I need to get drop beams for that year of brakes I convert to? Thanks in advance.
The drop beam hooks to the spindle. Disc or drum does not matter. But I would be a little confused if you went to all the trouble to change to drop beams and didn't upgrade while everything was apart.
If you want to get into some custom fabrication and save some money to drop the front you can move the pivot point of the ibeams about 2.5 inches up and cut the springs 5 inches. This gives you a 5 inch drop with no negative camber. I've done this to many trucks and never had any problems.
Pops...I've always looked at the bottom of the cross member and wondered why nobody ever mentioned doing exactly that. If you wanted to get real radical you could even channel the cross member to gain clearance. What you mentioned sounds basically like re-drilling the I beam pivot holes up higher and cutting the coil springs OR getting drop springs. This is opposite of how they LIFT I beam front suspensions...put a longer bracket in and taller springs. I like that it is reversible if you ever wanted to go back to stock ride height. Got any pics of any of the trucks you've done?
If only dropping a couple of inches, what about different (or cut) springs.. and have the i-beams re-bent for caster/camber? A truck shop could do the alignment. I don't know for sure, but it seems that the camber wouldn't change so much that it couldn't be adjusted back into spec.