New truck with problems
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 13
The other option would be upgrading your intake and carb. For around $300-350 you can pick up a 4bbl aluminum intake and Edelbrock 4bbl carb with electric choke. Going this route you will have more performance and likely better fuel mileage. This intake and carb will work on a 400M as well.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,398
Likes: 17
From: Hesperia, CA
That carb definitely has problems. Not only is the choke housing missing, but somebody cut the choke shaft bypass lever off. The darn choke plate is probably pulling closed when you punch it. You are not going to get the parts needed in a rebuild kit. A rebuilt carb or one from a wrecking yard to get the missing parts is in order.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 311
Likes: 1
From: Waterdown, Ont.
walt88,
There is a metal tag on your carb, write down the numbers and go to auto parts store for a rebuild kit.
I have pics of my 2100 teardown/rebuild here:
1972 Ford 2100 carb teardown pictures by zenmaster2009 - Photobucket
and the first 12 images here:
http://s694.photobucket.com/albums/v...2009/?newest=1
The 2100/2150 are very similar.
Also ask fmc400 for his help on setup. His help was the best! He has a detailed explanation on setup.
The link is here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6422219
good luck!
There is a metal tag on your carb, write down the numbers and go to auto parts store for a rebuild kit.
I have pics of my 2100 teardown/rebuild here:
1972 Ford 2100 carb teardown pictures by zenmaster2009 - Photobucket
and the first 12 images here:
http://s694.photobucket.com/albums/v...2009/?newest=1
The 2100/2150 are very similar.
Also ask fmc400 for his help on setup. His help was the best! He has a detailed explanation on setup.
The link is here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6422219
good luck!
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Thanks for the link I'll definitely be using that in the near future. However I think I'll still need to buy a new or rebuilt carb since I'm missing the choke.
So the next question where should I go with rebuilt or buy new and where should I make the purchase. I've found a few places online but would like opinions of others who have done this.
Thanks
So the next question where should I go with rebuilt or buy new and where should I make the purchase. I've found a few places online but would like opinions of others who have done this.
Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 311
Likes: 1
From: Waterdown, Ont.
mwalt88,
I see from your profile you're in Georgia. Since it's warm there, the previous owner probably removed the choke because he couldn't get it to work properly - or he figured he didn't need it. I'm inclined to suggest you find a used carb at a wrecker (for cheap) and rebuild the old one with the missing parts. Or just rebuild the complete one. Take the carb id tag with you when you go. Try to find one exactly the same. There should be lots of them to be found, if you have the time ... Of course, you could always buy a new one, but like FMC400 says, you might not be any further ahead. Plus, rebuilding it allows you to see how everything goes together, and the satisfaction that comes from doing it yourself. It's also less expensive than a new one.
What ever you decide to do, the folks here will give you a helping hand.
Keep us in the loop.
Best of luck,
John
I see from your profile you're in Georgia. Since it's warm there, the previous owner probably removed the choke because he couldn't get it to work properly - or he figured he didn't need it. I'm inclined to suggest you find a used carb at a wrecker (for cheap) and rebuild the old one with the missing parts. Or just rebuild the complete one. Take the carb id tag with you when you go. Try to find one exactly the same. There should be lots of them to be found, if you have the time ... Of course, you could always buy a new one, but like FMC400 says, you might not be any further ahead. Plus, rebuilding it allows you to see how everything goes together, and the satisfaction that comes from doing it yourself. It's also less expensive than a new one.
What ever you decide to do, the folks here will give you a helping hand.
Keep us in the loop.
Best of luck,
John
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,313
Likes: 12
From: Northeast LA
If you do decide to stick with the 2 barrel and go with a new one. I suggest a new holley from summit. Holley 0-7448 - Holley Model 2300 Carburetors. I have one similar to this one on my truck. It bolts right on in place of the factory 2150/2100 and worked right out of the box. It even comes with the auto kickdown linkage for our trucks. One peice you do need to order if you don't have one already is the little ball that hooks the linkage from the truck to the throttle lever. It doesn't come with one.
I've heard horror stories of people having to go back multiple times when they bought the remanned ones from auto stores. So I decided to go brand new. Good luck.
I've heard horror stories of people having to go back multiple times when they bought the remanned ones from auto stores. So I decided to go brand new. Good luck.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,956
Likes: 10
From: MD
I agree that I shouldn't just throw money at a problem without proper troubleshooting. So here are the pics.
Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket
Thanks again for all the help.
Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket
Thanks again for all the help.
Are you sure it's a '76? It has a 1978/79 cab, and 1973/76 bed. 351Ms weren't available until '77.
What is its VIN? Does it match?
You said it had an engine fire, correct?
In that case, most likely, the PO removed the whole choke housing because it was stuck. The linkage was plastic that probably melted in the fire.
The kickdown linkage looks it's been smashed and band-aided.
I strongly recommending trashing that carburetor; it's beyond repair.
========================
Check the engine oil for gas residue. If evidence shows residue, change it out ASAP!
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Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Nope no mention of a fire. I'll check the vin but otherwise I haven't noticed any indication that the cab and bed are off different trucks at least the color matches. I'll post up the vin once I can get to it. I'm going to try to get to a pull-a-part this weekend to find a carb if I can't find one I'll buy one. I thought the 351M was available during those years.
Thanks for all the help I'm learning alot through the forum and that was the primary reason for buying the truck.
Thanks for all the help I'm learning alot through the forum and that was the primary reason for buying the truck.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,956
Likes: 10
From: MD
Uh...I don't know where I got the fire thing from. I must have gotten things mixed up from reading too many threads in such a hurry. Ignore that.
The Motorcraft 2150 carburetor was the most popular in midsize and large cars, trucks, and vans. Try to stay in the '70s range. The later carburetors had significant changes.
The whole truck is in primer. That's a dead giveaway that it's hiding something like body swaps and whatnot. I'm confident you have a 1978/79 truck, not a '76. The interior and the engine are excellent clues.
The Motorcraft 2150 carburetor was the most popular in midsize and large cars, trucks, and vans. Try to stay in the '70s range. The later carburetors had significant changes.
The whole truck is in primer. That's a dead giveaway that it's hiding something like body swaps and whatnot. I'm confident you have a 1978/79 truck, not a '76. The interior and the engine are excellent clues.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Here's the VIN f14ync05816. I decoded it online and it comes back as:
Model Year: 76
Series: F150 - 4x4 Pickup
Engine: 8 Cyl, 360ci, 2bbl
Assembly Plant: Norfolk
So from what you've seen so far was $900 a fair price?
Model Year: 76
Series: F150 - 4x4 Pickup
Engine: 8 Cyl, 360ci, 2bbl
Assembly Plant: Norfolk
So from what you've seen so far was $900 a fair price?
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 378
Likes: 0
From: Greenwood, SC
It seems like you thought it was a fair price so thats all that matters. I bought my truck for $500 and drove it for 2 years before I had any problems. As far as the carb goes, I would find another one like most have said and rebuild it.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 178
Likes: 0
From: beaufort
Hey walt if its what your looking for and it cranked up and ran then its worth it. You definitely need a new carb that Holley from summit that jsutton mentioned is a very good choice also could you back up and take a pick of the intake and valve covers we would be able to tell you if its an FE
(360-390-428) motor or not. Chuck
(360-390-428) motor or not. Chuck
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,956
Likes: 10
From: MD
Y - 360 2v
N - Norfolk, VA assembly plant
C05816 - April, 1976
Where did you obtain the VIN from? Is there a warranty plate below the door latch and a certification label above the striker plate?
