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Charging problem 2003 5.4 EB 4x4

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Old Jun 15, 2009 | 02:28 PM
  #16  
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What worked for me was checking the wiring that goes under the battery tray and down the passenger side of the engine compartment. I found that my connections to the starter and alternator were fine. However, I found:

THe issue was the Orange/Blue wire that is part of a bundle of 4 wires that branches oifff the Positive wire (with fusible link) to the Alternator.

THe Orange / Blue wire was frayed and broken due to being in contact with an AC line, it broke and bew the alternator. Fixed the wire and all is working fine now.

Good luck!
 
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Old Jun 15, 2009 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 03BLKEB
What worked for me was checking the wiring that goes under the battery tray and down the passenger side of the engine compartment. I found that my connections to the starter and alternator were fine. However, I found:

THe issue was the Orange/Blue wire that is part of a bundle of 4 wires that branches oifff the Positive wire (with fusible link) to the Alternator.

THe Orange / Blue wire was frayed and broken due to being in contact with an AC line, it broke and bew the alternator. Fixed the wire and all is working fine now.

Good luck!
Yea, I had read your post and looked all over for any bad wires. Pulled the battery and tray to check the ones that go under it. Unplugged plugs and plugged them back in. Nothin. That's why I'm so confused about this. I'm gonna go pull the battery cables now and let it sit for a day and see what happens.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 11:16 AM
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Ok, so that didn't do anything either. Anybody know of any fuses that maybe I didn't check? I hate going to the stealership, but don't know what else to check right now. Ugh, maybe I'll give the wiring a triple check this weekend.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 11:42 AM
  #19  
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Check fuse 106 (an odd looking pink and clear box) and Relay 5.

I am assuming that your battery cables are solid connections?

Have you had any water leaks that could corrupt/corrode the GEM (fuseblock by passenger footwell)? If so may need to blow some compressed air around to dry out any mystery moisture.

i'm running out of ideas for you on this, let me know how that goes.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by broncoholic
1. 12V
2. 13.5V
3. 13.5V
I could be wrong, but I believe you need a minimum of 13.8v to properly charge a 12v battery. Your reading puts you 0.3v under the minimum, which could explain your message center warning light.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 02:08 PM
  #21  
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Well if that's the case (13.8V), I'll see if I can trick the system by starting and running the truck with my battery charger attached. The parts store had said the alternator and battery were good though, huh.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 04:44 AM
  #22  
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GRRRRR New update: The wife went to go to the grocery store last night and it started hard and all the gauges did a full sweep reset. Recall that we've used it for over two weeks now without any issues, other than battery light. I played with the voltmeter, volts were way low. With the truck running, turning lights and accessories on would take the system all the way down to 10v!! At that point I ran to the parts store to have the charging system checked. They said the battery was low and needed charged (DUH!) and the alternator was putting out 14v +/- .05 v. They suggest pulling the wire loom, even though it looks good, and checking the wiring. If I don't find anything, then bring in the alternator for a bench test. They admitted to having a bad batch of alternators recently, not model specific. I should have another update by the end of the weekend.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 05:02 AM
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Still have the problem. Checked all wiring between the alternator and battery. I think I found the orange/blue wire that was talked about earlier. It was starting to wear on an a/c line, but was not worn through. I slit a piece of vacuum line and put it over the wires before taping everything back up. All my wires were good. Checked fuses 9, 105 and 106. All had good continuity. I don't know how to check relay 5.

I took the battery and alternator to the parts store to have checked. Turns out the battery was bad and had 1 month left on the 36 month free replacement, thank god. They couldn't test the alternator, it won't on thier machine the way it designed. However, once everything was back together, I went back and the tested it in the truck. Checked the battery, did a load test on the alternator at idle and at 2000 rpm. Everything checked out fine. The alternator was showing 14.2 v output with the new battery.

If noone can think of anything else to check, I'll be headed to the dealer Friday to see if they can diagnose it.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 10:49 AM
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It was putting out 13.5v before and now you have 14.2v. It sounds to me like the charging problem is fixed.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2009 | 04:44 AM
  #25  
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My original numbers were using a sweeping needle voltmeter, but the parts store's machine is digital read out, so their's is definitely more precise.

Regardless, I agree with you, it sounds like the charging system is fixed.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 01:11 PM
  #26  
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Uhg, so $174 later and the dealer "thinks" it's the alternator. They said the alternator is charging, but there is likely a bad diode in it telling the PCM that it is not charging. There is a TSB (04-14-9) out there that says to reprogram the PCM and replace the harness that goes between the alternator and battery. I let them do the PCM flash, but was not paying $45 for the harness after I just inspected it. I know there are no chafed areas and I'm going to use the multi-meter to verify there is connectivity through the plugs while they are connected. If I find a bad connection at the plug, I'll pull out the soldering gun and heat shink and hard wire it. So sometime this weekend I'll get the connectors checked and alternator replaced and post results.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 04:41 PM
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YES!! Pulled the alternator and exchanged it and all is well. Finally.
 
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