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I probably know the answer, but I'll throw it out there anyway.
I replaced the differential gasket on my 99' F-250 yesterday. As I was giving the bolts a final snug up, I noticed I over tightened the left side near the middle. I noticed the gasket had split in two spots were it stuck out slightly past the cover.
My question is: If the gasket tore on the outside, did most likely tear on the inside as well?
At $17.00 a quart for the 140 weight synthetic oil. I'd rather replace the $6 dollar gasket instead of spending another 60$ on oil!
I just replaced my gasket after R&R'ing the wheel seals and bearings this weekend. I cleaned the pumpkin cover and the diff surfaces, then let the Black rtv skin (about fifteen minutes). After I wiped up the last bits of gearoil dribble from the diff surface, I pushed the cover in place, 1 small drop of blue rtv on the threads (afterwords I figured it wasn't necessary because the rtv squeezed into each hole from surface tension), tightened up the bolts, filled it with synth oil, and haven't seen a drop anywhere.
BTW, I asked in another thread, but I'll ask here:
Does the fill hole on the front of the (06) pumpkin look a bit low? I know the bearings are oil fed, but I figured you would want the tube to have some oil in it. I ended up putting just at three and a half qts (7 pints). The book calls for a greater amount (I think 7.5 + pints). Should I worry? Should I remove the ABS Sensor and pour a little more in there?
Thanks
I just replaced my gasket after R&R'ing the wheel seals and bearings this weekend. I cleaned the pumpkin cover and the diff surfaces, then let the Black rtv skin (about fifteen minutes). After I wiped up the last bits of gearoil dribble from the diff surface, I pushed the cover in place, 1 small drop of blue rtv on the threads (afterwords I figured it wasn't necessary because the rtv squeezed into each hole from surface tension), tightened up the bolts, filled it with synth oil, and haven't seen a drop anywhere.
BTW, I asked in another thread, but I'll ask here:
Does the fill hole on the front of the (06) pumpkin look a bit low? I know the bearings are oil fed, but I figured you would want the tube to have some oil in it. I ended up putting just at three and a half qts (7 pints). The book calls for a greater amount (I think 7.5 + pints). Should I worry? Should I remove the ABS Sensor and pour a little more in there?
Thanks
I think you are good. Run it a couple days and recheck
On my 03, when I got the rear end changed out for my 4.30's, they were leaking a bit of fluid (I could see it spattered all over my hitch and my boat trailer). I took it back to the place that did the swap, and they told me there is no gasket, just the RTV stuff as mentioned above. What they used was orange on mine, but it worked. No leaks, no problems.
Maybe I'll give her a go and see what happens. It's on the upper left side right around the oil level and above.
For good measure, I did put a small bead of the black RTV gasket maker on both sides just because I had it. (I meant to mention this in the original thread.)
If that's all some of you guys use, then I should be all set!
Maybe I'll give her a go and see what happens. It's on the upper left side right around the oil level and above.
For good measure, I did put a small bead of the black RTV gasket maker on both sides just because I had it. (I meant to mention this in the original thread.)
If that's all some of you guys use, then I should be all set!
1) What gasket? They never had one on the covers. Always used RTV from the factory, or at least I THINK so.
2) When using RTV, always wait about 15-20 minutes for it to skin over before assembly. This allows it to stick to the surface of the cover, so it won't squeeze out when you tighten it down.
3) If I were to use a gasket for the cover, I'd use Permatex Hi-Tack (rubber cement, basically) to glue the gasket to the cover, and allow to COMPLETELY dry so the gasket won't move. Ever. Then, put a VERY light coating of RTV on the gasket surface, just enough to fill any imperfections in the diff housing, allow to skin, and assemble. I've done this with timing cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets, valve cover gaskets, everything, and the Hi-Tack keeps the gasket from squeezing out.
Thanks for everyone's feedback here.
Should of checked here before starting this procedure.
Kerwat, you are correct sir! What gasket?
I ***-umed it had one before I took it apart.
Put the lube in and took her for a run. So far so good.
Spent the rest of the evening cleaning up the mess in the garage.......................Has anyone else ever clipped the edge of the oil pan when pulling out and flipped it over?
Has anyone else ever clipped the edge of the oil pan when pulling out and flipped it over?
Eww... I've run the gamit from (as a teenager) leaving out the oil pan plug so all 5 quarts went into the asphalt driveway, to spilling the oil drain pan, to actually DROPPING the darn thing and having it splash all over the garage.
Ahh.... Done most of those.
But did you ever have the hose come loose and flip out of the bucket when doing a tranny flush? Suffice it to say that having the hose do the whip snake dance of death and spray ALL over the garage is my biggest mess ever. Even got the ceiling! A BMW tranny pumps a lot of fluid per second.... Seemed like about 10 gallons per second during that little episode.....
Now I always use TWO clamps to hold the hose! Redundancy is good.
With regards to original post:
Silicone = lubricant. As you've learned, using it on both sides of a gasket is bad idea. Like Krewat, if the gasket absolutely needs sealer (most don't anymore), I prefer High Tack on one side and silicone on the other.