Hey guys I have a few questions I find the answers to.
1. How do you adjust the headlights? Steps and or a pic would be great
2. My ignition is lose in the dash, it will twist when turning the key. What do I need to fix this?
3. I need to replace my dimmer switch, is this something fairly simple?
I know these are things that you are all getting a good laught at but I am a noob to all of this and trying to learn. Thanks guys.

 

The headlights are fairly easy. Remove the trim ring (3 screws) and under that you will find more screws. Shallow ones for the headlight bulb retainer ring (3) and longer ones that are the adjusters. Vertical screws are up/down, horizontal are side/side adjustment.

Dimmer switch is held to the floor with just a couple of screws/bolts. Very easy. Can't help you on the ignition switch as I've never touched mine.

 

I found this article. It might not be correct for our trucks but at least it's a start.
Photo Guide
<TABLE id=ctl00_ContentPlaceHolder1_HowToControl1_dlHowTo style="BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD></TD></TR><TR><TD>
Begin by finding a level surface and a vertical garage door or wall. Park the vehicle close to the wall and mark the lights' horizontal centerlines with masking tape. </TD></TR><TR><TD>
Next, mark the low beams' vertical centerlines. For better precision, stand behind the car at its center point and, looking through the back window, guide a helper in marking vertical dead center. Marking the vehicle's centerline is also helpful to verify side-to-side alignment. </TD></TR><TR><TD>
Park the vehicle on a flat surface 25 feet away from the wall, pointing straight ahead. Use the lights' horizontal- and vertical-adjusting screws to position the low beams' intensity zones two inches below and to the right of the taped centerlines. (Trim ring removed to show adjusters.) </TD></TR><TR><TD>
Adjustments can normally be made without removing any parts. Turning the top adjusting screw clockwise raises the beam and vice versa. Similarly, the side adjuster moves the beam left and right. </TD></TR><TR><TD>
High beams' "zones" should be below the line and vertically centered in relation to the vehicle's centerline (not marked with tape in this example). Here, the right-side high beam needs to come inboard. When in doubt, be courteous and err your aim low and to the right. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
I hope this is helpful.

 

big daddy...
i am not discouraging you from asking questions in any way.. god knows i ask alot myself
and i know some will take this the wrong way,however
you will find that your noobie life with a 62 will be much easier if you get a shop manual for your truck that is year specific...
this site and others are awsome for answering all your questions but... and trust me this will happen...
you will be working on your truck at 0 wee thirty with your hands covered in grease and...
any way, you can find them on ebay in original, reprint and cd for your computer.. i have all three and the computer version was the most expensive, be patient...also try your local used book store.
enjoy your 62 its a great truck

 

For 62 you must have the 61 F100 to 800 manual. And the 62 63 F100 to 800 supplement for a set.

Head lights adjust as shown by Bob, all in a very similar way. if the adjusters are rusted they will be seized in the 40 year old plastic mount. The plastic mount and shaft are available new to replace the broken or seized old ones. Think Mustang.. Same thing..

As to the ignition switch, It sounds like the bezel is worn and not engaging the tangs in the dash or the tension spring is missing. Bezels are available new. The key piece must be removed first to remove the entire switch. There is no way to tighten it up without removal and shimming or replacement.

Garbz

 

C2TZ13181A .. Headlamp Adjuster Nut-Nylon / Obsolete

Fits: 1962/66 F100/750 / 1963/67 Econoline

Fits: 1964/66 Falcon / 1965/67 Galaxie/LTD / 1966 Bronco.

PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX has 50: 888-727-0418

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 10: 800-543-4959
-------------------------------------------------------
C2TZ13021A .. Headlamp Adjuster Nut Bracket / Obsolete

Fits: 1962/66 F100/750

MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS in Binghamton NY has TWO: 800-546-7278.

BOB ALLEN FORD in Overland Park KS has TWO: 800-676-0675.
-------------------------------------------------------------
D1OZ13032A .. Headlamp Adjuster Screw / Obsolete

Fits: 1962/66 F100/750 / 1962/70 Fairlane/Falcon / 1964/72 T-Bird / 1965/72 Galaxie/LTD.

Fits: 1965/66 Mustang / 1966/77 Bronco / 1970/77 Maverick / 1971/73 Mustang.

GREEN SALES CO. has 28.

MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS has 27.

ED BUTTS FORD in La Puente CA has 84: 626-918-3673.
------------------------------------------------------
The ignition switch bezel is held under tension by a coil spring on the switch.

People do not know this, when they can't get it off by hand, they use pliers. This tears out one or both of its notches.

There are two notches, one is larger than the other...which means that the bezel can only be removed/installed one way.

The bezel is EZ to remove...once one knows how to do it.

Place your hand on the back of the switch...press it forward...this releases the tension...now twist that puppy off.

 

I guess some one ought to tell LMC they should stop selling the reproduction ignition bezels.......

LMC Truck Parts - Page 39

Garbz

 

Which would you rather have, a made in China piece of chit sold by lmc, or the real thing?

There are 214 Genuine Ford ignition switch bezels available from Ford dealers, and another 48 at obsolete parts vendors.

On the way home, you can swing on by Sanderson Ford, they have 18 available.

 

Appears headlights and hi/lo beam switch have been answered.

With regards to the Ign. switch, If entire switch rotates 'garbz2', and 'NumbersDummy' noted the items may likely need to replace. If the bezel and switch remains inplace and it's the lock mechanism that turns I had same problem, and occasionally could remove the key while engine was still running. Found the prior owner replaced the ign. switch but installed the lock mechanism incorrectly. Suggest remove the lock mechanism then reassemble and see if it corrects the problem. To remove the lock mechanism place key in ign. then turn to access position. Take paper clip, or something simular, and insert in small hole on the face of key assembly then push lightly while continuing to turn the key counter clockwise and the lock mechanism will come out. The lock/key mechanism must be in same position to reassemble. If the key rotates to the access/on/off position, use the paper clip and rotate to the full counter clockwise position before inserting into switch assembly, then using the key, turn 'clockwise' to accessory position. The paper clip is used to release the check ball both for removing the lock assembly, and for installing. Sorry, don't think I could make heads or tails from this pathetic description but if you take a few minutes and look inside the switch, and also the end of the lock mechanism and it will become clear the two components can only be assemble one way to work correctly. If any questions, don't hesitate to ask!!

 

Hey, I like Chinezze.. Yumm.... house spec Lo-Mein....

So what happens when those 214 units are gone... SOL? I have a hochimin piece in my 64. Pressure cast and chromed and will out last my life in this matrix.. Cant tell the difference between a stock or the chinezze, and it fit perfectly........

The moral of the story is, There are other options out there other than the last 214 in the world for a DD or Beater, Save the NOS for museum pieces.

Garbz, LOL

 

I'm with ya Garbz; my local ford dealer is ****-poor when it comes to asking for NOS beyond 1990's. I never can get a parts rep to even try and look up a part, from a book, they are all computer assit hunt & pec types.
I like the NOS but; unless I buy from vendors; like Greens in Lebanon Tn DC etc; I can't rely on local ford dealer for jack.

Mitch