<TABLE style="WIDTH: 655pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=873 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 655pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 31926" width=873><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 10.5pt; mso-height-source: userset" height=14><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 655pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 10.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc99" width=873 height=14>The Inferred EBP Strategy was used only on 2003 and early 2004 trucks (vans not affected) built prior to Sept 29, 2003.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
(All other model years use the EBP sensor)


Also this may help (I was requested to post this - hope this is what was desired):

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 505pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=673 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 505pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 24612" width=673><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.5pt" height=18><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; WIDTH: 505pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 1pt solid; HEIGHT: 13.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=673 height=18>ODOMETER TRICK TO SEE COMPUTER VALUES AND GAUGE READOUTS</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; WIDTH: 505pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=673 height=17>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/633472-odo-display-learned-something-new-today.html</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 140.25pt" height=187><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; WIDTH: 505pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 140.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=673 height=187>Many of you may already know this, but you can display on the Odometer the realtime digital information from many things - most notably, Temp, Speed, RPM, and many many others.

There seems to be a slight difference in the way to enter based on model year. I have an 06. With the key OFF, press & hold the Trip/Reset button (Press Setup and Reset buttons at the same time on KR and Lariat editions). While holding the button(s) in, turn the key to the ON position (but do not start it yet). When the word "TEST" comes up, release the button(s) and start the engine. By pressing the Trip/Reset button (reset button for the KR and Lariats) you can cycle through all the things that can be displayed. I have read (have not verified) that on older models, follow the same procedure but instead of the "'TEST" coming on the word "GAUGE" comes on, the gauges will then swing to full scale then back. Release the button at that time.
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 38.25pt" height=51><TD class=xl27 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; WIDTH: 505pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 38.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=673 height=51>On the KR and Lariat models: You have to hold the Setup and Reset buttons at the same time, then turn key to on - you will see TEST and as soon as you do, let off the buttons and then start the truck - press reset to cycle thru all the options...</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

Thanks Mark,that's what I was looking for.

 

so i inspected all i could today and found this...

i could not visually see any exhaust leaks on the up pipes and around the turbo housing. now i didn't take the turbo off (didn't have enough time). i did see a few small leaks on the down pipe connection.

had the upper boot on backwards and it is cracked but i don't think it is leaking. the lower boot has a rip right underneath the clamp. don't know if this causing the boost issue. there is oil in the tube, haven't done the CCV reroute yet, so i cleaned everything and reinstalled.

wasn't able to take out the IAT sensor.

all connections are good.

so my boost has been this way since the EGR delete and turbo cleaning. only codes i have had were P0404 and P0405. so looking at the turbo is there anything that could be worn, unison ring, vanes, crankshaft, that would cause low boost. maybe the VGT valve is dirty. the turbo spools quick up to 20 and dead stops under WOT.

thinking back, i reused my intake gaskets because the dealership didn't have any in stock and i needed to get the truck back together. they looked fine so i reinstalled. i have read on here that someone found loose intake bolts and those leaks were causing low boost. could this be the cause.

another thing about the EGR disconnect and running the tuner. if the valve was bad and plugged in would the tune run right.

i would really like to enjoy this truck because i am modding it the way i like. runs great besides this boost issue. maybe i could have the dealership diagnose it.

 

i'll try this tomorrow and see what happens.

 

i emailed this question to Eric at ID.

Eric quick question. with the street tune in what kind of boost levels should i see. trying to narrow down if a small leak in an up-pipe is limiting my boost. before i just figured it was due to the EGR delete and computer limiting the boost due to no EGR flow. i still see 20 to maybe 22 psi.

thanks.
Scott.

response...

Scott,

On an 05+ truck, with a tune, low to mid 20’s. Stock, you’ll see slightly more. This is due to less backpressure. The turbo controls boost by backpressure. The more power you make, the more backpressure, and the vanes will open more. You’ll move more air, at less boost, and make more power.


Eric

 

You may not be able to see cac tube adaptor leaks at idle. if they are cracked or torn in the least bit you bet it will effect boost ratings at WOT. i see it everyday at the dealership. just replace them and take another reading at engine operation temperature. you probably ripped or tore them by accident when you removed them. and as for the intake gaskets... that was a bad mistake. those gaskets are basically like o rings. they crush over time and usage. i would replace them. but you seem to have good boost even though you didnt replace them. (a expected amount of boost for your situation). if i had this come in the shop id replace the intake gaskets cac tubes and all o rings and gaskets i had to remove for the repair. go up to the shop parts guy. not the regular parts department. they wont know what you need for the job. the shop parts guy will. he provides us with parts not customers. so specifically request him if your going to do this. good luck!

 

thanks wyatt. i knew not replacing those intake gasket was a bad idea. i just couldn't have my truck down for another day. i never removed the lower IC boot, only the top. yes, it is cracked and what not. i'll start by replacing them and in the mean time gather the parts to swap out the intake gaskets. i pretty much know what i need.

 

ok sounds good. i can get you a intake gasket set for cheap if you need it. i have extras at work. i can get you the turbo drain tube o rings and egr cooler hose too. they are just sitting under my work cart at work. pm me if your interested. ill get ya a sweet deal.

 

My truck lost boost after my egr delete kept hearing about the truck going into some epa mode because of a flash Ford did said it would lock the turbo in a fixed position. Some say its not true some say it is but im sure I lost boost. Some say that the tuner can fix it some say that the tuner cant. Have great power with the tuner but still dont have the boost I had before the EGR delete.

 

What year is your truck frank?Do you have custom tunes?

 

My truck is a 2006 and it has custom tunes by Eric I run street extreme

 

i too have heard all the theories behind the limp mode. i have also read about some individuals blocking the flow of exhaust into the intake and nothing changing with boost on 05 and up trucks. my truck definitely changed after the delete. the turbo makes more whistle. nothing has changed in the sound or boost levels with the custom tune. i still haven't done the VGT relearn. i still need to swamp out the IC boots for new ones.

 

My turbo whistel much louder to and I lost mpg but that could be because I put on 37s at the same time I did EGR delete. But I have read you would loose mpg if you do the Egr delete and the truck goes into limp mode because the truck over fuels to burn the gases the epa dosnt want in the air. But im not sure what is true or not . Exept lost boost lost mpg whistel louder and dont think truck spools up as fast. But if I can tow my camper without over heating maybe there is something positive.

 

scameron- did you fix your prob. i seem to have the same prob. on my 07 with same stuff done to i but the only different thing i did was add a bd boost builder now my truck see 29 but stops there but i dont think this fixed the prob.

 

Ran a little test just now took off the bd boost builder and in street economy tune my truck boosts to 22psi and goes back down to 18. in stock mode with bdbooster unplugged goes to 18 and creaps to 20 but no more than that. is this a symptom of limp mode?? will run some more test to see what it does in different tunes and with bd boost builder too