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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Bed removal

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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 06:02 PM
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Bed removal

I have never removed the bed of a truck before so I have a couple of questions. I picked up an 84 F150 XLT one owner truck that has ZERO body rust or door dings. However it was a red with silver sides from the factory. I like the looks of the solid red but in order to give it a good paint job I have to get between the cab and bed. I figured I'd take off the top rails and tail gate to relieve weight but have no clue what I'm looking at as far as weight and how many guys to get this off. How many bolts hold this box on? Any tips from anyone who has done this?

Dave
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 06:33 PM
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There should be a total of 8 bolts I believe. If you look in the bed you can count them. Its really not to bad, just take the tailgait off and crawl underneath. You have to disconnect the fuel entry lines from the fuel doors on the side of the bed. There maybe a ground strap or two under there but other than that and those few bolts its really not that hard to do. I have pulled a couple of beds before and it took me and two to three friends to get it off when it was all unbolted. The worst part is just if the bed is a little rusted to the frame. Just one person in each corner and you should be good to go.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 07:24 PM
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Just remember to disconnect the wiring at the rear, and take off the gas filler hoses and such on the side. I find it easier sometimes to take the rear lenses out, undo the bulb sockets out of the lenses, and snake the whole socket and bulb out the bottom of the lense cavity.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 07:45 PM
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I knew there was something I was forgetting. Thanks Franklin.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 09:03 PM
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Great info guys...I think I'll shoot some thread lube on the bolts before I attempt to break them loose.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 09:33 PM
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what also works awesome is to use the old school camper jacks, put a towel or two on them and stick em up under the wheel wells.. you only need one guy to do that easy!.. just lift it up and drive off slow!
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 09:46 PM
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From: patricia ab canada
i use my engine hoist.put straps in the 4 corner pockets,and hoist it up.works slick.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 10:20 PM
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How do you get the seized nuts and bolts off cause no dought there gonna be on there good and rusted. Dont tell me you just put a socket wrench on and start turning.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Hometown Pride
How do you get the seized nuts and bolts off cause no dought there gonna be on there good and rusted. Dont tell me you just put a socket wrench on and start turning.
cutoff tools are your friend
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 10:33 PM
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From: patricia ab canada
they are a carriage bolt.i only had one spin on me,and since my bed was scrap,i just mig welded the bolt to the bed.i have heard some guys grinding flat side on the head to fit a wrench and get some sucker to hold it,while your underneath.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Hometown Pride
How do you get the seized nuts and bolts off

231C 1/2" Impactool?
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 11:07 PM
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South Texas here. Very little if any rust issues. Of course I'm sure the bolts are "as tight as they will go plus two more turns."
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 11:15 PM
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Up here in Ontario they put salt down before, during, and after it snows, They even started putting it down before it snows in liquid form so it really sticks to your vehicle. you just bang sh@t with a hammer and everything except the part you want falls off.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 11:34 PM
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If you weren't worried about protecting the bed, one person can just flip it off to one side. I did use the engine hoist and straps to install my new bed though. The beds aren't terribly heavy. Two average men could easily lift it, but it is nice to have extra help to guide it into position.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2009 | 08:09 AM
  #15  
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I would try and save the bolts if at all possible. They are $15 EACH from the dealership.
 
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