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I have had an audible exhaust leak for some time now and narrowed it down to the up-pipes. I finally pulled the trigger and hooked up with Clay at Riffraff Diesel Performance and ordered the IH pipes. Using the fantastic guide here on FTE, I pulled my turbo and related pieces. Using Pocket's guide (Welcome to Pocket's International UP-Pipe Replacement Web Page) I jumped into the up-pipe replacement with both feet.
A couple of notes to add for someone doing this swap. First, step one on both guides is disconnect the batteries. I usually skip this step. Its a pain to remember my stereo presets and what not. DON'T skip this step. While loosening the passenger side pipe from the manifold, I brushed the starter with my ratchet. Fourth of July under my truck. Did I immediately get out and disconnect the batteries? Nope. Did it again two more times before i got smart. Second, the back bolt on the topside of the passenger pipe is so much easier to get to if you remove the turbo pedestal.
All in all the job was not as bad as I thought. Special thanks to Clay. Also to Stewart_H for running to the stealership for me to grab something.
The other lesson I learned in this is much like Rome being built, up-pipes were not replaced in a day. I had to come in to the office today so I will finish up tomorrow morning (after disconnecting the batteries of course).
I am hoping to pick up some boost though. With the Bully Dog, the most I was able to boost was 19psi regardless of what setting it was on. Of course, the DP tuner gets ordered in a week.
DON'T skip this step. While loosening the passenger side pipe from the manifold, I brushed the starter with my ratchet. Fourth of July under my truck. Did I immediately get out and disconnect the batteries? Nope. Did it again two more times before i got smart.
ROTFLMAO! You didn't tell me about the 2nd and 3rd arc welds!
So you took the pedestal out to get to that bolt eh? I'll have to remember that when it's my turn x2.
Not trying to steal the thread but had a question. I read where some say the OEM donut gaskets don't realy last that long, and I have read about brass replacements as well as a bellowed replacement. I do know to look for the tell-tale black streaks on the pipes but are these things that unreliable? To tell the truth I am dreading the job if and when it happens..
[quote=duck fan;7425055]. Its a pain to remember my stereo presets and what not. quote]
If you take a plug that goes into the lighter and tie it onto a 9volt battery it is usually enough voltage to keep the memory alive in the radio, while the batteries are disconnected. Make sure to keep the doors shut or the battery will drain very quickly trying to light the interior lights.
Not trying to steal the thread but had a question. I read where some say the OEM donut gaskets don't realy last that long, and I have read about brass replacements as well as a bellowed replacement. I do know to look for the tell-tale black streaks on the pipes but are these things that unreliable? To tell the truth I am dreading the job if and when it happens..
Got the same feelings about this as well Mark.. Dreading it. Cross my fingers every time i change the oil and i give it a good once over while i am under there.. Please,please,please,please no black soot.. My luck is Snap/strip/swear words/broken garage windows/starting my truck on fire. LOL.
. Its a pain to remember my stereo presets and what not. quote]
If you take a plug that goes into the lighter and tie it onto a 9volt battery it is usually enough voltage to keep the memory alive in the radio, while the batteries are disconnected. Make sure to keep the doors shut or the battery will drain very quickly trying to light the interior lights.
another hint for those nasty rear bolts on the collector, 2- 12" socket extensions and a wobble on the socket end and you can reach them from under the truck. An air ratchet makes this even easier.
another hint for those nasty rear bolts on the collector, 2- 12" socket extensions and a wobble on the socket end and you can reach them from under the truck. An air ratchet makes this even easier.
Best tip for those nasty rear bolts, have a friend fly up and lay on the engine to help guide you with 3 feet of extenstions
Well its all done. I have bruises all down one side of my body. I am too beat to test drive but initial impressions in the driveway are that my leak is gone. Again thanks to Clay @ Riffraff Diesel Performance, Stewart_H, and Nolan (4inchlovin). Nolan bailed out of work today to come help me finish up. He took some pictures and will be posting them in the next few days.
The most difficult thing was getting the Y-pipe on the back of the turbo. I fought with it forever and finally got it in place 5 minutes before Nolan showed up at my house. Figures.
I think Monday when I get into the office, I am going to have to spring for that supporter badge.
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