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I needed to put some of the suspension back in to get my truck towed to be sandblasted. I had to install the Sky shackle kit in order to get everything to work. Now this is what my truck will sit like after this project is done. Does that pinion angle look ok? Its definitely much steeper than stock, but it seems aligned alright. My other question is, I got some fuel lines, brake lines, and wires that are still in the frame rail, do you think a sandblasting shop wouldn't care to much to go around them. Thanks
If you've got anything left on the frame that might be damaged, it's best to remove it, or at least try and tape it up with a heavy tarp or something like that. Especially important will be any plugs, connectors or quick connects.
What's the total lift going to be? Looks like it'll be pretty high.
thanks guys. The lift isnt suppose to be anything to crazy, just about 2 and half inches. I removed my 4 inch blocks and installed 2 inch ones. Then again its hard to see what it will look like without a bed on there. I am getting pretty burnt out though, I have been working on the front and rear since mid March.
With that much pinion angle a traction bar of some sort would probably be a good idea. You don't have nearly as much room as stock for the axle to flex before the u-joint binds.
With that much pinion angle a traction bar of some sort would probably be a good idea. You don't have nearly as much room as stock for the axle to flex before the u-joint binds.
I was told doing a shackle flip would prevent any of that?
I was told doing a shackle flip would prevent any of that?
It will help (actually removing your blocks helps more), but it can still happen. You could also use shims to correct your pinion angle, the longer you're driveshaft the more effect it will have as far as causing vibration etc. But these are all things you can do later if you need to, just a suggestion. Guess I'm just used to building pulling trucks where any axle wrap can get expensive fast.
It will help (actually removing your blocks helps more), but it can still happen. You could also use shims to correct your pinion angle, the longer you're driveshaft the more effect it will have as far as causing vibration etc. But these are all things you can do later if you need to, just a suggestion. Guess I'm just used to building pulling trucks where any axle wrap can get expensive fast.
His situation was that he was running the factory 4" blocks in the rear and he was still 2" lower than the front, so it was either run 6" blocks or do a shackle flip for 4-1/2" lift and use 2" factory F250 blocks. I managed to persuade him into the shackle flip thing, my major point against the tall block being just axle warp and the stress that would put on his U-joints and driveshaft slider joint. I think you will agree that the best pinion angle is the one at which the pinion point straight at the transmission yoke when truck is at its regular ride height, and from what I see on the first pic it looks like he got that part right. Of curse in pulling and drag-racing where there's a lot of axle warp you do want to leave the pinion pointing slightly below the trans yoke so that at full throttle and maximum axle warp the pinion gets that straight shot at the trans yoke, but in his case I don't think that would be a concern. I'd really like to see some profile (side) pictures of both the pinion angle and the shackles, as I have a little concern I'd like to clear up before truck is all buttoned up and ready for the road...