Help, Innerfender Idiot
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Help, Innerfender Idiot
Am I missing the obvious? I have assembled and installed the inner fender panels and grill assembly on my 1950 f-1 restoration project. Now I go to install the inner fender inspection plate on the lower passenger side and for the life of me I cannot get it to go into place on the inside of the shock tower. Do I have to take the whole panel off and bolt up this plate before installing the inner fender panel? That doesn't seem right to me as what would be the use of having it in the first place. What am I missing here? HELP!
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I suppose I could do that . . .remove the shock and the shock tower but what in the heck is this "inspection panel for if it can't be removed or replaced without removing something else? I can find no reference to it in the ford truck manual. I assume the right inner fender is two pieces for a reason . . .rather than one like the left side.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
You shouldn't have to take the inner fender panel off. The inspection panel is actually there so you can adjust the lifters on a flat six engine. I can't see having to remove the inner fender panel every time you have to adjust the lifters.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Arvada, CO
I did it recently and had to remove the shock bracket. I was putting one on a truck that didn't have one. I wasn't able to get it on easily. If his truck is all painted up I wouldn't try as I don't think it is possible to get into position without scraping parts.
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Hotshot
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From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
So what you're saying is Ford would engineer something to make it almost impossible to work on. I find that hard to believe.
I have to go now, I need to add brake fluid and need time to pull the floor mat up, clear any dirt away from the floor hole so when I crawl under the truck and get a wrench on the MC cap so I can turn it the quarter turn to loosen it and then come back topside so I can finish turning the cap off from above, again making sure I don't knock any debris into the reservoir, while working around the big chuck of frame that covers 50% of the cap. Then I have to hold the bottle of brake fluid 10" above the 2" reservoir hole and pour the fluid in without spilling it on the floor or frame and not overflowing the reservoir so the fluid doesn't pour on the rest frame and onto the garage floor making a mess that I will have to avoid when I go back under to tighten the MC cap .
At least I don't have to contend with the heater motor because I removed the old one since it was totally rotted out because it was in the perfect location to collect every piece of road debris kicked up they the front right tire, since it's no longer there I won't have to remove the front wheel, crawl under the fender and fight with rusty, rounded bolt heads.
Ah, great Ford engineering.
I have to go now, I need to add brake fluid and need time to pull the floor mat up, clear any dirt away from the floor hole so when I crawl under the truck and get a wrench on the MC cap so I can turn it the quarter turn to loosen it and then come back topside so I can finish turning the cap off from above, again making sure I don't knock any debris into the reservoir, while working around the big chuck of frame that covers 50% of the cap. Then I have to hold the bottle of brake fluid 10" above the 2" reservoir hole and pour the fluid in without spilling it on the floor or frame and not overflowing the reservoir so the fluid doesn't pour on the rest frame and onto the garage floor making a mess that I will have to avoid when I go back under to tighten the MC cap .
At least I don't have to contend with the heater motor because I removed the old one since it was totally rotted out because it was in the perfect location to collect every piece of road debris kicked up they the front right tire, since it's no longer there I won't have to remove the front wheel, crawl under the fender and fight with rusty, rounded bolt heads.
Ah, great Ford engineering.
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From: Saraland, AL
right inner fender photos
Here are some photos of the right inner fender from a '51 F-1 showing the inspection panel. These pictures make it look like there is plenty of room (at least with the engine and front axle out!) 
Fred
Fred
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From: Pflugerville, tx
sam
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From: Durham NC
So what you're saying is Ford would engineer something to make it almost impossible to work on. I find that hard to believe.
I have to go now, I need to add brake fluid and need time to pull the floor mat up, clear any dirt away from the floor hole so when I crawl under the truck and get a wrench on the MC cap so I can turn it the quarter turn to loosen it and then come back topside so I can finish turning the cap off from above, again making sure I don't knock any debris into the reservoir, while working around the big chuck of frame that covers 50% of the cap. Then I have to hold the bottle of brake fluid 10" above the 2" reservoir hole and pour the fluid in without spilling it on the floor or frame and not overflowing the reservoir so the fluid doesn't pour on the rest frame and onto the garage floor making a mess that I will have to avoid when I go back under to tighten the MC cap .
At least I don't have to contend with the heater motor because I removed the old one since it was totally rotted out because it was in the perfect location to collect every piece of road debris kicked up they the front right tire, since it's no longer there I won't have to remove the front wheel, crawl under the fender and fight with rusty, rounded bolt heads.
Ah, great Ford engineering.
I have to go now, I need to add brake fluid and need time to pull the floor mat up, clear any dirt away from the floor hole so when I crawl under the truck and get a wrench on the MC cap so I can turn it the quarter turn to loosen it and then come back topside so I can finish turning the cap off from above, again making sure I don't knock any debris into the reservoir, while working around the big chuck of frame that covers 50% of the cap. Then I have to hold the bottle of brake fluid 10" above the 2" reservoir hole and pour the fluid in without spilling it on the floor or frame and not overflowing the reservoir so the fluid doesn't pour on the rest frame and onto the garage floor making a mess that I will have to avoid when I go back under to tighten the MC cap .
At least I don't have to contend with the heater motor because I removed the old one since it was totally rotted out because it was in the perfect location to collect every piece of road debris kicked up they the front right tire, since it's no longer there I won't have to remove the front wheel, crawl under the fender and fight with rusty, rounded bolt heads.
Ah, great Ford engineering.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
My recollection is you corkscrew it in with the front edge coming from behind the shock bracket, at the elevation it will ultimately sit, and swing the rear end in. I have done it two or three times with a fully assembled vehicle, it can be done!
PS -- Bob, I used to have thoughts like yours about Ford, but then I bought a German car... no contest!
PS -- Bob, I used to have thoughts like yours about Ford, but then I bought a German car... no contest!
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Fred, Thanks for the photos they at least confirm which piece goes toward the outside. I will get it in one way or the other . . . just need a bigger . . . . brain. Carl
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Pt.St.Lucie , Fla.
Am still wondering what that intentional factory recess is just forward of the small top long crease ? Inquisitive minds want to know .Do you think it was for some type of factory cradle that made contact and this is an after thought ?
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