Front passenger side Bilstein Shock installation
Front passenger side Bilstein Shock installation
Help! How do I access the front passenger side top fitting on my 2000 Excursion rear wheel drive V10? With great difficulty I was able to do the front driver side.
Unable to get a ratchet on the passenger side to remove old shock. Unsure of how to get a box wrench and allen wrench (required with Bilsteins) to the passenger side without removing inner fender protectors.
Ideas?
Unable to get a ratchet on the passenger side to remove old shock. Unsure of how to get a box wrench and allen wrench (required with Bilsteins) to the passenger side without removing inner fender protectors.
Ideas?
There is absolutely no access from above on the passenger side. On the diriver side there is room to reach the top shock nut and hold the allen wrench and make part turns on a box wrench. Also a ratchet can be used to take off the old shock on the driver side but not on the passenger side.
It looks like I will have to remove the inner fender since there is no access from the top of the engine compartment. What is disconcerting is that I have seen so many posts that this installation is a "piece of cake" and does not require jacking or tire removal. No where have I seen anyone talking about needing to remove the inner fender. Maybe the 2000 X is different?
I have installed these shocks on both the 4x2 and 4x4 trucks.
The passenger side 4x2 is fairly tough to get to. Your best bet is to get a ratcheting box end wrench (don't remember the size) and work it 20 degrees or so at a time.
No disassembly required, in my experience.
The passenger side 4x2 is fairly tough to get to. Your best bet is to get a ratcheting box end wrench (don't remember the size) and work it 20 degrees or so at a time.
No disassembly required, in my experience.
I will get a ratcheting box end wrench tomorrow and give it try. Did you put the x on jack stands and remove the tire too?
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No. Just a swap, on the tires. Probably took 30 mins in all.
swivel ratcheting box end wrenchs -- some of the best tools to have in your tool chest... Saved me an hour's worth of time when I was putting in the rear sway bar and trying to get to those tight inside bolts.
Well swivel angle ratchet box end wrenches were critical to the final solution. Got all four shocks installed.
I know everyone says this takes 30 minutes but the reality for me was that it took the better of two days!
Here is what the novice needs to know:
1. The rubber gromet bushings in the front do not just drop out. They need to be hammered, cut, pulled whatever it takes to get them out.
2. A swivel angle ratchet box end wrench is critical...Don't even start if you don't have some of these.
3. A floor jack is needed to compress and postion the rear shocks so that you have some chance of installing the lower bolt.
4. Rear upper bolts are simple. Be careful not to loose your ratchet head in between the fuel tank and the fuel tank metallic sheild when doing the rear passenger side.
5. You can do this without jacking the vehicle but be prepared for many hard to reach fittings.
6." Victory is sweet" ....even if it took 2 days and lots of sore muscles!
I know everyone says this takes 30 minutes but the reality for me was that it took the better of two days!
Here is what the novice needs to know:
1. The rubber gromet bushings in the front do not just drop out. They need to be hammered, cut, pulled whatever it takes to get them out.
2. A swivel angle ratchet box end wrench is critical...Don't even start if you don't have some of these.
3. A floor jack is needed to compress and postion the rear shocks so that you have some chance of installing the lower bolt.
4. Rear upper bolts are simple. Be careful not to loose your ratchet head in between the fuel tank and the fuel tank metallic sheild when doing the rear passenger side.
5. You can do this without jacking the vehicle but be prepared for many hard to reach fittings.
6." Victory is sweet" ....even if it took 2 days and lots of sore muscles!
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