84 302 need some advice
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New User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 5
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84 302 need some advice
Have an 84 bronco 302. Been told the oil bearings are bad. Run fine when cold but once it heats up all oil pressure is lost. If this is the case what is the best course of action? 
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
Hehehe, what McLeod is saying is either someone is blowing smoke or using the wrong term. All bearings require some sort of lubrication and inside an engine typically its oil. Now given that the symptom is a loss of oil pressure once the engine warms up, it is quite possible that you have a few "spun" bearings which can certainly cause a drop in oil pressure once the oil has warmed up and the internal parts have expanded. Make certain you have the proper viscosity and level of oil and it is not burned first. If you have done an oil and filter change already with no changes in the symptoms, spun bearings must be tracked down one at a time and can only be done with a major tear down of the engine. spun bearings are a result of either a loss of oil and/or overheating of the parts they protect. In short, if the oil is fine and the pump is good and the sump is not clogged, you are probably looking at rebuild time.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,703
Likes: 4
From: Harrisburg, NE
stroker kits are basically drop in and might even be worth it if you scored your crank really bad and would like the extra power, but to see the actual benefits you would need to add cam, intake and heads (even if you didn't stroke it a set of e7's are cheap and would still be an upgrade)
I did a 69 351w with a summit kit, and was very please with quality and price.
oh, and dont forget to replace your piston return springs...
I did a 69 351w with a summit kit, and was very please with quality and price.
oh, and dont forget to replace your piston return springs...
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 34,495
Likes: 2,810
Were you satisfied with this engine in it's earlier years?
When was the last time you smogged it? And what numbers did you get?
Is the vehicle worth putting $1000+ into?
As for passing smog, you are limited to OEM parts, or CARB approved parts. Headers, manifolds and carbs many times are CARB approved. Cat back systems are OK. There is a new law about catalytic converters, so if your OEM job is OK, make sure it stays that way.
As for a stroker kit, it is probably not smog legal. However, with the stock intake, exhaust, smog equipment etc, and running good, I'd bet your numbers will pass. My '85 passes easily, and the numbers allowed for it would almost allow it to pass with a plug disconnected or worse.
And, how will they know?
Anyway, you are looking at some semi-serious money on even an all stock rebuild, so decision time is at hand.
Good luck with it.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 725
Likes: 1
From: Upstate New York
A junkyard motor would be a lot cheaper and easier.
Find a 351W and it's a pretty simple swap.
Find a 351W and it's a pretty simple swap.
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
rebuilding isnt allways expensive depends if it needs to be bored if not cut the ridge and hone it look at the crank also might have to be cut if not slap some rings and bearings in it pull the valves out of the heads clean them replace the seals and lap them in you can buy kits pretty cheap with or with out pistons check out PAW - Performance Automotive Warehouse Inc. you can get some good deals
who diagagnosed the bearing problem is it ticking or knocking you need to remove sending unit and install a hand help pressure gauge they should read 40-60 psi at 2000 rpm with engine hot
who diagagnosed the bearing problem is it ticking or knocking you need to remove sending unit and install a hand help pressure gauge they should read 40-60 psi at 2000 rpm with engine hot
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
the lifters may also be shot. you never mentioned how many miles are on this motor? its probably due for rebuild or replacement. like mentioned above a wrecking yard motor would be the easiest and allow you to get some upgraded stuff like heads. any 87+ 5.8 has the E7 heads. any 93+ 5.8 stamped F4TE is roller cam ready or has a roller cam present which is nice but not necessary. just transfer you current motors hardware over to that motor and be done. you could turn around and sell any efi parts to offset some costs also.