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Hey guys Some one locally has a set of 60's for sale with 4.10 for $1000. it is the full axel with both drive shafts and wheels. I'm thinking its time to loose the TTB. My question is I just put a lift on the truck---Can I use these springs? I know it will take me higher(my wifes not gona like that---ohh well) Anything else I will need to swap? Thanks
OK I got some more info and have a question-- He said "60s have 4.10 gearing, kingpin, full floater rear and hypinion front. Front Axle is Driver's drop. 4 8-lug rollers and driveshafts included."
What is drivers drop? And if this will work what should I look for when I go see these? Sorry but i need the axles's for dummies version.
THanks
OK I got some more info and have a question-- He said "60s have 4.10 gearing, kingpin, full floater rear and hypinion front. Front Axle is Driver's drop. 4 8-lug rollers and driveshafts included."
What is drivers drop? And if this will work what should I look for when I go see these? Sorry but i need the axles's for dummies version.
THanks
Drivers drop is saying the offset of the differential on the front axle is on the driver side. Some older trucks (chevy and dodge) had the front drive shaft on the passenger side so they would a passenger side drop.
As long as the axle is from a Ford you should have no problem. Being Kingpin its an older axle. 1991 or older I believe. The brakes will be a little smaller than your current ones.
OK I got some more info and have a question-- He said "60s have 4.10 gearing, kingpin, full floater rear and hypinion front. Front Axle is Driver's drop. 4 8-lug rollers and driveshafts included."
What is drivers drop? And if this will work what should I look for when I go see these? Sorry but i need the axles's for dummies version.
THanks
King pin instead of ball joints. Much better. Drivers side drop means the differential is on the drivers side where you need it. High pinion means the pinion gear is up off center so the drive shaft mounts to the diff at a higher point.
I would swap in the front axle but not the rear Dana 60. Your speedo works off of the speed sensor mounted on top of the 10.25 axle you have now.
The 10.25 is a great axle, I'd keep that in the rear and re-gear it if needed.
OK I got some more info and have a question-- He said "60s have 4.10 gearing, kingpin, full floater rear and hypinion front. Front Axle is Driver's drop. 4 8-lug rollers and driveshafts included."
Kingpin means it's older. Just beware that you're going to lose front brake power. The older ones had 12.56" rotors. Our trucks have a 12.93" rotor. The offsets and everything else are different so you can't just bolt on new parts and get the bigger brakes.
It is also "high pinion." Ford put the pinion shaft up above the axle center line to reduce the angle of the front drive shaft.
What is drivers drop? And if this will work what should I look for when I go see these? Sorry but i need the axles's for dummies version.
THanks
That just means that the pumpkin is on the drivers side. Ford was always drivers side, GM was always passenger and Dodge did both. GM and Dodge D60's are close, but Ford D60s have a lot of unique parts.
I would swap in the front axle but not the rear Dana 60. Your speedo works off of the speed sensor mounted on top of the 10.25 axle you have now.
The 10.25 is a great axle, I'd keep that in the rear and re-gear it if needed.
I agree completely. The Visteon 10.25 is between the D70 and D80 in strength. A D60 would be a huge downgrade.
That sounds like a great deal! I agree with everyone else don't swapout the rear that would be a huge down grade. Make sure you check the axle out if its parts are worn its way better to go through it now then later. Way easier to work on sitting on some saw horses. Even if it is questionable I'd rebuild it now just so you know you won't have to do it again. Even if every part on it is wore out it is still a great deal and King pins are super easy to rebuild. I pulled mine out of my 96 1 ton tore it down completely, blasted it, epoxy primed and painted it. Every part is new except for the carrier and pinion bearings as they were fine. I had maybe a grand in parts including the warn premium hubs. I know it will be a very long time before I have to do it again!
Your springs will be fine. If you are worried about it bolting up measure the distance on your trucks leaf springs from center to center (driverside to passenger side) Id do it as close to the rear of the springs as I could to get a good number as your ttb springs move in and out a lot as the suspension travels so better to get as close to the frame as posable. When you go to see the axle to buy measure it from center to center were the spring pads are. (It will be a little hard to get a good number as the center section is in the way) But it should be real close. Hopefully you will get the track arm with the new axle as well. other then that its a pretty straight forward swap.
I was thinking they're pretty old when i read "both dana 60's". When did Ford stop using the rear dana 60? 1986?
It could be these axles are from a 1979 and older rig. I think they are a different width, and not very easy, or frankly, i thought it was very cost prohibitive to even try to bolt one in.
Before you buy, it would be time well spent to get a measurement on the spring perches of his axle.
Just beware that you're going to lose front brake power. The older ones had 12.56" rotors. Our trucks have a 12.93" rotor. The offsets and everything else are different so you can't just bolt on new parts and get the bigger brakes.
are you sure about this? when i did my swap years ago the D50TTB wheel bearings out fit the 1988 D60 i had purchased which used the bigger brakes. i remember i had to buy a brake line adapter but aside from that it was a direct bolt in. i also had to swap over brake caliper bracket as they were different but the 5 lug pattern was identical.