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Traction bar Project.

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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 09:09 PM
  #1  
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Traction bar Project.

Since my truck is down, i have all the time in the world to fab up this idea i have had for a long time now. Despite the crappy plasma cutting job the shop i bought the steel from did, it is turning out pretty well. I got a welder a month or so ago, and i've been sticking metal together ever since, and i felt comfortable enough to try this. Take a look at some progress i've gotten so far, and let me know what ya think

 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 09:37 PM
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Looks good to me! What kinda welder you get? Ive always wanted to learn how to weld. Tried it a few times at a friends shop - would love to fabricate something for my vehciles. Its a much better feeling then just buying it. congrats
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 09:38 PM
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Cool! Looks good so far, I plan on building some one of these days as well.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by a-rod
Cool! Looks good so far, I plan on building some one of these days as well.
I should have taken a picture of it. Millermatic 252, dual bottle mount, stand/perch for spool gun and cables, got a spool gun too, i can do aluminum, stainless and carbon steel. Aluminum is a little tricky!
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 10:11 PM
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Not too bad a welding job Kris. Went big time on the welder. Ive just got a small Hobart 135 but it does what I need it to for now.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 10:11 PM
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That should be a pretty nice unit. I have a lincoln 255xt, and just use it for steel for now. someday Ill get the spoolgun setup, but at the time being, work has a synchrowave 200 tig welder, I use for aluminum. Now you need to get those on the truck!

Edit: Just a little constructive criticism. The following picture, if you look at the weld bead, you will see how there is a "pile up" were the filler has for lack of better words, piled up, in the center of the weld, and hasnt flowed out to the material. In my oppinion, you should try turning the voltage up. The material looks to be around 1/4 plate. For material that thick, I personally run about 25 volts, and 395 inches per minute. The spatter is a little higher in this setting, but penetration is significantly higher. And with the correct torch angle, you will have a nice flat looking weld.

 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 10:23 PM
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Wow, i'll try that, i was way off. I was about 19.5v, and 280ipm. i'll turn it up some, it is indeed .250 plate, and i would much rather have a flat beat, i think i was going a little slow too.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 10:23 PM
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Kris,that really looks good. Looks like you have been practicing quite a bit. Very nice.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
Wow, i'll try that, i was way off. I was about 19.5v, and 280ipm. i'll turn it up some, it is indeed .250 plate, and i would much rather have a flat beat, i think i was going a little slow too.
I find the generic settings on the machines to be very conservative. If you have some spare pieces, you may try making a nice T joint with them, and practicing a bit, with the setting I said. You may have to adjust the voltage some, to prevent undercut, and you will have to adjust your torch speed to the new heat setting. 24-24.5 volts, and 365 ipm may be a little easier to start with. Like I said, you will see more spatter afterwards, and this burns in REALLY hot. But it leaves you with great penetration, and a nice looking bead.

Another EDIT: You will have to also decide whether you are more comfortable pushing or pulling. A friend of mine is in school for welding, and has been taught to pull. I have always pushed with mig.
_____/ (the underline is the weld, and the / is the torch, this is pulling)

_____\ (the underling is the weld again, and the \ is the torch pushing)

You may try both ways, and see what produces the best looking weld. I find I use both methods, depending on the situation, but mostly push.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 10:33 PM
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Mig Aluminum is a PITA. . . I much prefer the work of a tig machine myself for that material. I do need to pick up a MIG for my shop. . . currently I use my buddies if its something I don't want to do with my TIG. Tell ya what. . . a plasma cutter and a tig machine. . . and I don't come inside from the garage anymore! Way too much fun! Lookin good Kris. Its always satisfying to fabricate stuff yourself.
TImmy
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 10:37 PM
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Dad said... You get a few people interested in buying those brackets, i just may need to get "the business" a plasma cutter! I said, hell yes, let me post up some pictures like right nowwww.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 10:44 PM
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Kris we've got a 252 and love it as well. We didn't opt for the spool gun since we don't do much with Aluminum.

Our welding supply guy recommended we check out HyperTherm plasma cutters instead of Miller. We trust this guy a lot so we're looking at a Hypertherm 1250 I believe it is.

It'll do up to 7/8" steel no issues and can do up to like 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" steel if it needs to. We were told retail was somewhere around 3700$ but he could let it out the door for 3000.

Anyways that looks awesome.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 10:44 PM
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I recommend only HYPERTHERM for a plasma. . . absolutely amazing machine.
Timmy
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 7.3 Rocket
Kris we've got a 252 and love it as well. We didn't opt for the spool gun since we don't do much with Aluminum.

Our welding supply guy recommended we check out HyperTherm plasma cutters instead of Miller. We trust this guy a lot so we're looking at a Hypertherm 1250 I believe it is.

It'll do up to 7/8" steel no issues and can do up to like 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" steel if it needs to. We were told retail was somewhere around 3700$ but he could let it out the door for 3000.

Anyways that looks awesome.
Yes Hypertherm. . . rock solid machine. I think I paid 1800 or so for my 600 series.
Timmy
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 06:04 AM
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Nice job Kris. Very impressive especially since you taught your self how to weld.
 
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