Front axles
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Central Oregon
Front axles
I just had a 94 4wd Aerostar dropped off at my place, belongs to my wifes cousin. Ball jouints were shot, now replaced, front axle was almost dry, added oil. Now when you drive it and turn a corner the front wheels "pop" and sounds like there is no slip between the front wheels. No slip, meanning to me that it looks like the front wheels are turning at the same speed in a corner. I have never worked on a 4wd Aero before, so any inforation would be a help.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
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Electric transfer case clutch is locking up (or failing to unlock). Unplug the controller that you will find under the driver's seat. If that prevents wheel hop/pop then use this excellent trouble shooting guide recently posted by 96_4wdr: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...vice-info.html
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Washington state
yes
will still have 30% front/70% rear drive power
just no lockup with 50/50% split front rear.
one tire can spin and the van goes nowhere
make sure the transfer case is full to upper plug hole with fresh ATF
these suckers loosen the case bolts in the aluminum and leak like a sieve
will still have 30% front/70% rear drive power
just no lockup with 50/50% split front rear.
one tire can spin and the van goes nowhere
make sure the transfer case is full to upper plug hole with fresh ATF
these suckers loosen the case bolts in the aluminum and leak like a sieve
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Central Oregon
I did check the transfer case and it was good on oil, may need to be changed. Just the front third member that was almost dry, He said that it was smoking at one time, so he slowed down and finished that last 75 miles or so at slow speed. Thanks
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bertha,
Are you saying that prior to adding fluid to the front differential and changing ball joints, there was no wheel binding or after repair you noticed it during a test drive? I can see lack of lube and resultant extreme wear on the diff internal parts could induce wheel binding, but I cannot understand how it would suddenly start binding after adding lube and balljoint repair. Also, the front diff uses ATF and not heavy weight gear oil as you would expect.
Are you saying that prior to adding fluid to the front differential and changing ball joints, there was no wheel binding or after repair you noticed it during a test drive? I can see lack of lube and resultant extreme wear on the diff internal parts could induce wheel binding, but I cannot understand how it would suddenly start binding after adding lube and balljoint repair. Also, the front diff uses ATF and not heavy weight gear oil as you would expect.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,062
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From: Central Oregon
I'm not sure about binding before it I got it, I drove it up on to trailer and took it to my shop and started looking at it. He had drove it about 800 miles before I went to get it.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
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From: Washington state
torsen rick who used to post here had discussed the Aero AWD system with some of the Ford engineers involved in it's design. they stated that 75w90 hypoid diff lube was fine in front diff. the only reason they spec'd ATF was keeping the diff the same as the tranny. the Dana 28 diff is designed to run 75w90 and I suggest running a full rated synthetic such as Amsoil Severe Gear because of the small pinion size, high rate hypoid gear slide rates and the poor air flow cooling to the front diff.
low lube level in the TC will cause shuddering and grabbing of the electric diff clutch. much like a failed driveline speed sensor
i would only run Mercon ATF in the transfer case. the electric clutch friction material facing is selected for the friction modifiers in ATF not hypoid diff lube
low lube level in the TC will cause shuddering and grabbing of the electric diff clutch. much like a failed driveline speed sensor
i would only run Mercon ATF in the transfer case. the electric clutch friction material facing is selected for the friction modifiers in ATF not hypoid diff lube
bertha,
Are you saying that prior to adding fluid to the front differential and changing ball joints, there was no wheel binding or after repair you noticed it during a test drive? I can see lack of lube and resultant extreme wear on the diff internal parts could induce wheel binding, but I cannot understand how it would suddenly start binding after adding lube and balljoint repair. Also, the front diff uses ATF and not heavy weight gear oil as you would expect.
Are you saying that prior to adding fluid to the front differential and changing ball joints, there was no wheel binding or after repair you noticed it during a test drive? I can see lack of lube and resultant extreme wear on the diff internal parts could induce wheel binding, but I cannot understand how it would suddenly start binding after adding lube and balljoint repair. Also, the front diff uses ATF and not heavy weight gear oil as you would expect.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Central Oregon
I got a chance to move the van around last night alittle with the controller unpluged. It was better, still poped a bit, but much better that it was. So, now what? And what is this telling me is wrong?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Central Oregon
I did look at the CV joints and they look good. The cover looks like it may have been pulled off at one time, It looks like if you have to get in to the diff., the diff will need to be pulled out?
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A word of warning if you are inclined to remove the front diff. It is suspended from 4 rubber isolators. The bolts are embedded within the rubber and are accessible only from one side (the exposed side). Soak these bolts heavily with a penetrating oil. For a couple of days it possible. If you raunch on the nut you will likely break the bolt loose inside the rubber mount - at which point you are screwed both mentally and financially. Those mounts are dealer only items and run around $85 each - if you can still find them. (Ask me how I know.)
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Central Oregon
Thanks for that insight. May look into swaping the diff out of my parts van to this one. Why I'm asking about things, how does the axles come out of the out hubs? Do I need to remove the spindles? I know when I pulled the the joints loose on the inboard end that they would not clear the diff end.
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Loosen the axle nut before jacking, the raise the suspension under the lower control arm. Remove the brake caliper and wire it up out of the way. Remove outer tie rod from spindle. Loosen the pinch bolt for the upper ball joint. If the suspension is jacked so the axle is pretty much in a straight line, then you should be able to easily push the upper control arm free. Before you do this, tap the axle nut with a brass/rubber mallet to start backing the axle stub out of the hub. If it is tight, use a large, 2-3 arm gear puller to start the shaft. When loose, remove the nut, tilt the spindle forward and support with one hand while freeing the inboard axle at the differential. Once free, you can withdraw the entire axle shaft from the hub.
Use care when replacing the axle, that the spindle does not flop outward in a free manner. The weight is enough that it can cause the inner races of the CV joint to separate. Wire the spindle to the frame while re-installing the axle to prevent this-but allowing enough free play to re-install the inboard joint.
Use care when replacing the axle, that the spindle does not flop outward in a free manner. The weight is enough that it can cause the inner races of the CV joint to separate. Wire the spindle to the frame while re-installing the axle to prevent this-but allowing enough free play to re-install the inboard joint.