It was all going so well...
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,827
Likes: 103
From: Martinsburg, WV
It was all going so well...
Well I've been fighting a bad water pump on the old girl for couple months, not really an issue as winter is over and the house projects have not yet begun. So between my warehouse and Advance I got all the parts I need and started on her tonight now that the Mustang is done. Going to do Valve Cover gaskets/swap to later model covers and timing chain while I'm in there. Everything was coming apart so smooth, all the brackets came off so nice, even the power steering pulley. I get down to the last two bolts, the two that straddle the passenger side water passage on the pump, one also holds the tensioner arm for the alternator. Now I have changed I don't know how many 5.0 and 5.8 water pumps for customers over the years, but I have never had a bolt break until now... The tensioner bolt decided it wanted to break. I soaked everything with PB Blaster, just like I always do, If I find a bolt thats wants to be stubborn, I work it in and out, just like I always do. I feel it happening, the bolt gets a little too easy to turn and pop goes the weasel, and then the other bolt wants to stick... I'm gonna have fun tomorrow.... Anybody want to come help, I have beverages!!!
Here are some pics for the interested...
and,
Here are some pics for the interested...
and,
FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
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From: In my own world
your past the point of no return. go ahead and let the other one snap, remove everything, then take a torch, and heat the bolt red. take a pair of vice grips, and start to remove it same way you were when it still had a head on it. might have to heat it a couple of times. if it breaks off flush, heat it al little, and use a reverse drill bit. as you start drilling it will catch and turn the bolt out
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 5
From: Out of here
Never heat the broken bolt itself. You want to heat the threaded area around the bolt.
In your case it's not going to be easy because the engine block is going to act like a big heat sink. Use acetylene torches and get it pretty hot. Just keep moving the torch around the block to heat it evenly. It's also a good idea to try and tighten it first, then back it out a little. Repeat this process and it should come out.
If that doesn't work, you'll have to carefully drill them out. Best bet would be to remove the grill and radiator to give you better access and so you can see what you are doing.
In your case it's not going to be easy because the engine block is going to act like a big heat sink. Use acetylene torches and get it pretty hot. Just keep moving the torch around the block to heat it evenly. It's also a good idea to try and tighten it first, then back it out a little. Repeat this process and it should come out.
If that doesn't work, you'll have to carefully drill them out. Best bet would be to remove the grill and radiator to give you better access and so you can see what you are doing.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,935
Likes: 34
From: Arcadia, Fla
I had that exact bolt get stuck once, found out it was the bolt threads hanging up in the old gasket, wedging it tight. I just keeped working it in and out and finaly got it. I too though it was going to snap off. Hopefully yours is stuck like that.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Martinsburg, WV
Well with the help of my two friends, Oxygen and Acetylene, I was able to get the water pump off, then the timing cover. Then of course the bolt came right out... Cleaned and painted everything, put it back on along with the new double roller chain set for a (91?) up non-ho 5.0. Now I'm working on the valve cover gaskets, I am upgrading the covers to ones off of a 93 I did an engine swap on last year so I get the taller oil fill neck. I have put pics in a gallery, will update as necessary, maybe I'll even do some captions at some point...lol
here is the gallery...
Water Pump Job<--- Click Me!!!
here is the gallery...
Water Pump Job<--- Click Me!!!
FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
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From: In my own world
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Martinsburg, WV
Yeah, got lucky on the bolt, but this is my truck so....
Got her all put together, all shiny and whatnot now, no leaks, fresh oil all looks good. I hook the battery back up, go to turn her over, and that's all that happens... No fuel pumps, now I drove this truck into the garage. I did pull the wiring harness to the side while I had the top end apart. So tonight, me and my dad's copy of the 1986 F-Series EVTM have a date to see WTF I left disconnected, or if something else decided to break. Gonna short the relay over and play with stuff till I hear the magical whir. We'll see how it goes.
Got her all put together, all shiny and whatnot now, no leaks, fresh oil all looks good. I hook the battery back up, go to turn her over, and that's all that happens... No fuel pumps, now I drove this truck into the garage. I did pull the wiring harness to the side while I had the top end apart. So tonight, me and my dad's copy of the 1986 F-Series EVTM have a date to see WTF I left disconnected, or if something else decided to break. Gonna short the relay over and play with stuff till I hear the magical whir. We'll see how it goes.
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FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
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From: In my own world
check your grounds on the core support, you probably bumped one off while leaning in to work on the water pump. there's 2 by the battery, and 1 behind the driver's headlight on the inside
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Martinsburg, WV
Well my truck is definitely possessed, and or has spent too much time around British cars, the PO has both British Standard and Whitworth tool sets...
I jumpered the relay wiring, nothing, so I go to check the inertia switch again, nothing, as I'm walking back to the front of the garage to check the next junction in the manual, the damn pumps start whirring...&%^%^$%#$!!!. All by themselves, no help from me, so I disconnected, cleaned and reconnected every frigging connector in the circuit for good measure. Fuel pumps still run, good. Now try to fire her up, somethings wrong here. Stumbles, coughs etc. Now that OE timing chain was loose as all get out, but not enough for this kind-of reaction. So I call Dad (The Lord of the Blue Oval as he has been referred to on occasion) We are discussing it and I realize while I wired it from memory to 15436278, but I wired it clockwise like the chebby of my neighbors I had just worked on, dammit another brain fart. So rewire the dizzy, fires up, idles great, dives even better, all is well. I just need to borrow the neighbors timing light and set the timing now that I have a tight timing chain.
Thanks again!!!!
I jumpered the relay wiring, nothing, so I go to check the inertia switch again, nothing, as I'm walking back to the front of the garage to check the next junction in the manual, the damn pumps start whirring...&%^%^$%#$!!!. All by themselves, no help from me, so I disconnected, cleaned and reconnected every frigging connector in the circuit for good measure. Fuel pumps still run, good. Now try to fire her up, somethings wrong here. Stumbles, coughs etc. Now that OE timing chain was loose as all get out, but not enough for this kind-of reaction. So I call Dad (The Lord of the Blue Oval as he has been referred to on occasion) We are discussing it and I realize while I wired it from memory to 15436278, but I wired it clockwise like the chebby of my neighbors I had just worked on, dammit another brain fart. So rewire the dizzy, fires up, idles great, dives even better, all is well. I just need to borrow the neighbors timing light and set the timing now that I have a tight timing chain.
Thanks again!!!!
FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
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From: In my own world
good. glad to hear you don't have to pull anything back apart. check your plug to the back of your fuel pump relay, they have a bad habbit of turning green. clean it with contact cleaner, and use some di electric grease when you put it back together. nothing worse than pulling out into traffic and your fuel pumps quit.