Just wanted to thank you guys for the help and info you provided while I was giving Buster his triple deuce. Here’s an image of the finished product.



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Aside from the few minor problems mentioned on the link I gave earlier, (now updated), it went pretty good. I’m glad Buster has a 49 truck engine , seems a little beefier with the wider pulleys. I read somewhere (forget where) that the cast was a better quality on engines destined for the trucks and buses. Maybe someone can verify that.
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I might have had a vacuum leak with the old original manifold as now there is no hesitation and it idles and accelerates much smoother with the same carb I was running before.
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Thanks again for your help and suggestions.
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Joe

 

Cool beans! I'm happy when a plan works out!

 

Everything looks very nicely laid out.

 

Your motor looks great! Are you just running on the center carb for now?

Old wives tale, never seen any substantive evidence of it.

 

Yep, just running the center carb. I rebuilt 3 carbs and checked them all out (individually) but stayed with my original Holley 2100 to be the main carb.

I'll be starting a new thread on something interesting I came across regarding the intake air/fuel distribution. I discovered it during this project (thanks to AXracer). Should post it in a day or so.

Thanks again for your help (everybody) .

Joe

 

I am running dual Stromberg 97's, only running in the garage so far and requires more tuning as they are running rich. I like the look with the original generator converted to 12 volts. Also running Chysler electronic ignition with mechanical advance.
I couldn't imagine trying to tweak 3 carbs.

Good luck

 

Edelbrock still makes the Uni Syn multi carb syncronizer. It's available from places like Jegs, Summit, Speedway, even Amazon. Best $30.00 anyone running multi carbs can spend.

 

Your setup looks really nice , luckily I don’t have to worry about tweaking 3 carbs. The 30-dollar investment suggested by AXracer seems like a good investment to me. If I ever decide to run all, I’ll do that too.
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You mentioned running a little rich, and it tied right in with something I ran across on my project since I was working with 4 different carbs. I was going to start a new thread, but since it ties in with manifolds and carbs I’ll just put it here .
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Following a suggestion from AXracer, I made a diagram for myself showing the air/fuel mixture coverage of each carb on the triple deuce.
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When I pulled the old stock manifold, I checked it just out of curiosity. It was the same of course, showing the carb’s right barrel covering cylinders 2,3,5 and 8, and the left barrel covering cylinders 1,4,6 and 7. Makes sense, firing order reflects a sensible coverage pattern that alternates the firing between the right and left barrels of the carb. With the exception of the firing of cylinders 8/6, and 2/1, all other firing alternates between the right and left side of the block as well. I tried to find some info as to the engineering of the manifold and came across quite a few mentions of what appears to be a fairly well known book – Rebuilding the Famous Ford Flathead by Ron Bishop (1980). It had the only info I could find regarding the intake air/fuel distribution. In Chapter 7 of the book, The Fuel System, page 62 shows a diagram (Fig 7-2) for the intake manifold distribution of the air and fuel mixture. I noticed it was backwards to what I found when I checked both the new Edelbrock and my original manifold. Here’s the image from the book. I’m sure you’ve seen it before.
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And here is what I came up with


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If someone were troubleshooting fouled plugs, (2,3,5, and 8 for example), it’s pretty obvious the carb's right barrel fuel mixture adjustment screw needs to be leaned. If they followed the diagram of the book mentioned above, they would be leaning the wrong side, making their problem worse . You usually don’t question a book.
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I couldn’t find any supporting info on my suspicion that the book diagram is wrong. Does anyone have anything regarding this? If it is wrong (backwards) it should be noted. Might save somebody some headaches and expense.
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Joe

 

That's an interesting discovery! So many times I have found books wrong because authors tend to do most of their research from other books and pass on errors as fact until everyone believes it to be fact since "it is in all the books" (or even worse "...on the internet" since plagarism is seldom persued online).

 

Moosemunch:
I have the same setup only with 3 97's. I wanted to keep the Old School look, by keeping the Gen/Alt in the upright position, instead off to the side. I was able to cut off the back of the Gen/alt and replate the back and adjust the one bolt to make it next to my carb. It took some work, but hot rodding is fun.

 

I assume you mean you raised the generator? I'd be curious if you get a vibration around 1200 - 1400 RPM with that setup. My alternator sat high and the mount wasn't stiff enough, gave me that kind of vibes until I stiffened the mount.

 

Hey Ego Flat 48,

That is interesting, do you have an image of the fit? I'd be interested in seeing it. It's been a while now and I've had no problems with the closeness of my setup. You and I have the worst roads in the country when it comes to vibration. I'm just up the hill from you in Crestline. I almost brought Buster to the VA car show down in you're area last year. I might do it this year. Can you give us an image of your setup so we can see the fit?

Thanks :-)

 

Ross: Actually I didn't raise the generator. I used the stock mounting bracket for the stock height. I still have the cheezy strap on it, but plan on making a thicker, stronger one. I will be surprised if it vibrates much.

 

Joe:
I haven't forgotten you. Went out today, camera in hand, to take a couple of pictures but the batteries were dead. I installed a Toyota 4x4, 1980, steering box. I will try to take some pictures tomorrow. Later.

 

Moosemunch:
I'm having trouble attaching the photos to my reply. Sorry for the delay but computers are not my specialty.Any quick tips would help. Thanks.