Nice kit, Dave!

 

I saw the CCV mod as the way that International does it per their parts manual. Just a straight pipe to the back of the VC and down the block.

 

This statement "seems" to imply that your kit allows the crankcase pressure to increase to 1 psi=27.68" H2O before a "bypass" opens to limit any further increase in crankcase pressure???

A 1 psi crankcase pressure is what I measured in trucks that had their CCV hose routed to their tailpipe and that's far too high a pressure for the crankcase. Under WOT full load the crankcase pressure of a healthy engine with the CCV vented directly to the atmosphere shouldn't exceed 4" H2O=0.145 psi and the OEM Ford design provides a 2" H2O to 6" H2O vacuum in the crankcase depending on engine load where the higher vacuum occurs at higher loads where it's needed to vent the increased blow by.

Here's some pictures of how I instrumented my old F350 to measure the crankcase pressure so I could keep tabs on the CCV hose and on the blow by in general especially when towing long steep grades at WOT. Basically you install a fitting for a 1/4" ID plastic hose on the oil filler neck and run the hose to a 10" H2O gauge in the cockpit. In the picture below the gauge on the left which reads from 0" to 10" H2O...



...was connected to the hose going to the oil filler tube in this picture...



With my CCV design I had a crankcase pressure of 0.7" H20 at idle and 3.0" H20 at WOT full load which indicates that my rings were sealing well. A new engine exhibits about a x4 increase in crankcase pressure from idle to WOT full load.

Using a gauge with a 10" H2O scale allows for some needle bounce which you'll get under some load conditions and for increased readings due to engine wear. An older engine nearing the end of its service life exhibits higher crankcase pressures at all throttle positions and about a x8 increase in crankcase pressure from idle to WOT full load.

A crankcase pressure gauge is a good way of monitoring the general health status of your engine and I especially recommend it for anyone who's attempting to improve on Ford's vacuum regulator design by routing a catch canister back into the intake as well as for anyone running their CCV hose through a catch canister that vents to the atmosphere. Here is a link to where I bought of the 10" H2O gauge shown in the picture...

Phone (609) 259-8900 Fax (609) 259-3575 Internet:McMaster-Carr

E-mail:nj.sales@mcmaster.com

Each 4026K251 Low-Pressure Diaphragm Gauge 1.5% Accuracy, 1/4" NPT Center Back, 0-10" of H2O (Same as 4026K5) $49.65 $49.65 Monday morning

 

Hmmm, do I understand you correctly that with a CCV hose routed to the tailpipe, but NOT into the tailpipe, you got that high a cankcase pressure?

That would be an open hose running from front to back end, and exiting somewhere near the end of the exhaust pipe. Or are you referring to those systems that have the hose connected to a fitting that dumps INTO the exhaust pipe?

Thanks for your detailed replies on this issue.

 

now i am confused should you do the ccv mod or not? for the reason if you do the ccv mod you will not have a negtive pressure in the crankcase. do you wnat a negtive or not???? to many choices

 

Exactly shark.. that's why I started this thread..

There seems to me to be a couple of conflicting opinions...

1. Route the hose over the brake controller, or directly down.

2. Use a filter/trap or not.

And, there doesn't seem to be consensus.

I don't want a lot of stinky smoke and I don't want to continue to pollute my engine. And of course, I don;t want to harm my engine.

 

i got all the stuff to do but not sure that i should now. cause i understand point of the negtive pressure in the crankcase. but also understand why i dont want all the oil resdue air going through my turbo and intercooler. NEED HELP!!

 

He's talking about hooking it directly into the exhaust stream, like I did over a 125,000 miles ago. Apparently my engine is more durable than most since it's still fine after all these high pressure miles and years. I take my truck past 3000 rpm at WOT every day of it's life and it's still a champ. I've got plenty of blow-by, probably more than most, and despite all these pressures building and building in my crankcase I still haven't blown a gasket or even popped the dipstick out of the tube! I've got nearly 250,000 miles on it and when the day comes to put a new engine in, it will get the same CCV system!

But seriously folks, there is clearly not a consensus on whether it is bad to hook it to your exhaust. I'm just showing you that there are trucks out there with it run to the exhaust without having any problems at all.

Here's a pic that shows how I did it...

 

Andy, you have a 4" exhaust. It looks like the CCV enters the exhaust just ahead of the rear axle. Is that a muffler or resonator just upstream of the entry point? The restriction of a muffler may make a big difference in the pressure in the exhaust stream. It looks like your CCV enters the exhaust at nearly a 90* angle. Is that correct?

 

Do the CCV mod, if nothing else it keeps the oil out of your intercooler and all over your engine/CAC pipes. How you do it is totally up to you... tons of options as you already know.

 

That is a muffler. It's a BD one from about 8 years ago or so. You can see through it, there's a propeller shaped baffle of some sort in there. The connection point is just before the axle. I think it's closer to 45* than 90* though. I just mounted it that way to make it easier to run the hose! Gene, I know you cringe when you read this stuff!

Someday I'll pull the valve cover and we'll see if all that corrosive gas is just eating my engine away from the doghouse down. Based on my very own extensive bar stool analysis, if it really is very corrosive it would chew it's way through the IC in the OEM configuration.

 

1. Thanks to "gravity" when you run the CCV hose up and over the master cylinder the oil vapor which condenses in that run of CCV hose drains back into the doghouse and when the engine is running this helps to reduce the amount of "stinky" oil vapor coming out of the end of your CCV hose and after you park it reduces the oil drips in your driveway.

However if you use this approach the entire time your engine is running some oil vapor is continuously condensing and draining back into the doghouse and for the reasons I've already stated I'd rather put up with more vapor and more drips from my CCV hose than to let that "nasty acidic condensation" continuously drain back into my engine!

The OEM Ford design doesn't allow condensed oil vapor to drain back into the engine because the Ford design is continuously sucking it out, however it's then depositing it in the intake to the turbo which leads to a different set of issues such as blown CAC boots and oil accumulation in the intercooler.

2. Those who employ a "filter/trap" usually run the CCV hose up and over the master cylinder and then down to a "filter/trap" that's near the warmth of the engine and then out to the rear of the truck and this configuration dramatically reduces the stink but does so at the expense of increasing crankcase pressure.

When it comes to the CCV mod there's no free lunch and stinky fumes and a dripping CCV hose are what you need to accept if you want to minimize your crankcase pressure when your engine is under a maximum load and producing its maximum amount of blow by.

 

I'd rather clean the boots once a year that fill my cab with stinky smoke. I put mine back to stock. didn't see any performance gain.

 

But you might see a performance loss if the boots slip out.

 

CCV into exhaust.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...o-exhaust.html

CCV mod into exhaust?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...o-exhaust.html