front end question
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From: newton
front end question
hello everyone. i got a small quick question about front ends. I am going to put a mustang II front end on my truck. thats wat most people have told me would be my best way to go. All the applications how ever that they make are for 56, that i've seen. Does anyone know if that would still work on my 59? Thank u for the help!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 932
Likes: 9
From: DFW, TX
I'm not real familiar with the 57-60 frames but I'm sure someone will be along shortly to answer your question. In the mean time, you might compare some dimensions with the 56 frame below.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 412
Likes: 1
From: Fallon, Nevada
hello everyone. i got a small quick question about front ends. I am going to put a mustang II front end on my truck. thats wat most people have told me would be my best way to go. All the applications how ever that they make are for 56, that i've seen. Does anyone know if that would still work on my 59? Thank u for the help!
If too heavy of an engine has been installed, such as an FE, or even the original Y-block, they tend not to easily steer in city driving, particularly with bigger tires. The real solution here is to use a SBF up to a 351W and either do a power rack mounted to the front axle, or the Toyota conversion. For those not afraid of brand C, the SBC engine is very light and cheap to build as well. With the Six or with light V-8s, they steer and ride very well, even with beam axles.....
Alanco
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From: newton
The frames are the same width, and I'm sure that they would work. However, I fail to see the reason for any front only IFS as they do not make the truck drive better, they do not preserve the 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern, and in my opinion, they pretty much ruin the truck. Usually they are done onlly to radically lower the truck for someone who wants a pavement only 2WD city truck. If the problem is merely a bad steering gear, or a desire for power steering, there are good solutions for that. The stock drum brakes are more than adequate, and do not need power.
If too heavy of an engine has been installed, such as an FE, or even the original Y-block, they tend not to easily steer in city driving, particularly with bigger tires. The real solution here is to use a SBF up to a 351W and either do a power rack mounted to the front axle, or the Toyota conversion. For those not afraid of brand C, the SBC engine is very light and cheap to build as well. With the Six or with light V-8s, they steer and ride very well, even with beam axles.....
Alanco
If too heavy of an engine has been installed, such as an FE, or even the original Y-block, they tend not to easily steer in city driving, particularly with bigger tires. The real solution here is to use a SBF up to a 351W and either do a power rack mounted to the front axle, or the Toyota conversion. For those not afraid of brand C, the SBC engine is very light and cheap to build as well. With the Six or with light V-8s, they steer and ride very well, even with beam axles.....
Alanco
thank u!
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 412
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From: Fallon, Nevada
Beam Axle R & P, engines in a truck.
hi alanco. thank u for the information. It has a 223 in it now that is ready to be pulled. I was thinking either a 302 or a 351w. i dont know which would be best to use ,cause i want power and good sounding truck. the truck is 2wd. the reason i brought up the front end is because it stears horrible and didnt know which way would be best for rebuilding the front end. sorry if this is a dumb question but wat is power rack that i woudl mount on the front axle ? i kinda have an idea but if u wanna explain to make sure that would really clearify if for me thank u!
thank u!As far as your engines, I would use a 351W if you want torque and relative quiet. They are hard to find except as crate engines. Since all but a few in 1969 were 2 barrel low compression engines, they need aftermarket heads, pistons, headers and intake manifold and carburetor to perform well with gas mileage. If you want a racy engine, go for the 5 liter/302 which will rev and will output about the same HP. An early 302 also needs high compression and aftermarket heads. What I have gone to is the Brand C engine, 350CI, which with good stock heads, high compression, easy to find manifolds, headers, cams, you can easily have a 300+ HP engine for $1200, an impossibility with a Ford.
Personally, I would keep the 223, as it is plenty of power for the truck, and other than racing, it is just fine. Plenty of torque, I would gear it up to 3.50. (understand, I am an old guy) I think too much power in a truck is ridiculous unless you want wheelspin and smoke. The most ridiculous thing many truck owners have done is to put really big motors in the trucks that weigh so much that the truck won't steer, needs heavy front springs, and is seriously unbalanced front/rear balance wise.
If you present truck does not steer well, there are basic things that you have to do. Usually you need new kingpins and bushings, then you have to have caster checked and camber. If the camber is off, the axle has to be bent. When all this is done, it will steer well but it does depend on the tires, and steering gear. If the R & P were to be installed, that would be the time to do it.
Regards,
Alan
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Joined: May 2008
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From: Sugar Land & Bandera, TX
There is a company in Texas called RC Engineering who does conversions, I don't know of anyone advertising conversion kits. Since the rack has to be professionally mounted, a kit is not an option unless the beam axle is provided. It works great and in many cases, the elimination of the friction of the steering box, drag link and tie rod eliminates the need for power. If you need power, it is only necessary to run hoses from a power pump. This cleans up the frame and makes header design easier......
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From: newton
The rack and pinion steering gear, when mounted on the beam, eliminates any "bump steer". On hot rods, it is now very popular as it eliminates the need for a steering box and drag link, only a column that can handle a u-joint output and a movable splined shaft with a u-joint at the rack end and a bracing bracket for the shaft. Mavel Mfg makes kits for beam axles, but the two I did were on F-100s and used Dodge Omni racks. They only involved attaching the output arms to the spindles, welding on the beam axle and through bolts (for safety) There is a company in Texas called RC Engineering who does conversions, I don't know of anyone advertising conversion kits. Since the rack has to be professionally mounted, a kit is not an option unless the beam axle is provided. It works great and in many cases, the elimination of the friction of the steering box, drag link and tie rod eliminates the need for power. If you need power, it is only necessary to run hoses from a power pump. This cleans up the frame and makes header design easier.
As far as your engines, I would use a 351W if you want torque and relative quiet. They are hard to find except as crate engines. Since all but a few in 1969 were 2 barrel low compression engines, they need aftermarket heads, pistons, headers and intake manifold and carburetor to perform well with gas mileage. If you want a racy engine, go for the 5 liter/302 which will rev and will output about the same HP. An early 302 also needs high compression and aftermarket heads. What I have gone to is the Brand C engine, 350CI, which with good stock heads, high compression, easy to find manifolds, headers, cams, you can easily have a 300+ HP engine for $1200, an impossibility with a Ford.
Personally, I would keep the 223, as it is plenty of power for the truck, and other than racing, it is just fine. Plenty of torque, I would gear it up to 3.50. (understand, I am an old guy) I think too much power in a truck is ridiculous unless you want wheelspin and smoke. The most ridiculous thing many truck owners have done is to put really big motors in the trucks that weigh so much that the truck won't steer, needs heavy front springs, and is seriously unbalanced front/rear balance wise.
If you present truck does not steer well, there are basic things that you have to do. Usually you need new kingpins and bushings, then you have to have caster checked and camber. If the camber is off, the axle has to be bent. When all this is done, it will steer well but it does depend on the tires, and steering gear. If the R & P were to be installed, that would be the time to do it.
Regards,
Alan
As far as your engines, I would use a 351W if you want torque and relative quiet. They are hard to find except as crate engines. Since all but a few in 1969 were 2 barrel low compression engines, they need aftermarket heads, pistons, headers and intake manifold and carburetor to perform well with gas mileage. If you want a racy engine, go for the 5 liter/302 which will rev and will output about the same HP. An early 302 also needs high compression and aftermarket heads. What I have gone to is the Brand C engine, 350CI, which with good stock heads, high compression, easy to find manifolds, headers, cams, you can easily have a 300+ HP engine for $1200, an impossibility with a Ford.
Personally, I would keep the 223, as it is plenty of power for the truck, and other than racing, it is just fine. Plenty of torque, I would gear it up to 3.50. (understand, I am an old guy) I think too much power in a truck is ridiculous unless you want wheelspin and smoke. The most ridiculous thing many truck owners have done is to put really big motors in the trucks that weigh so much that the truck won't steer, needs heavy front springs, and is seriously unbalanced front/rear balance wise.
If you present truck does not steer well, there are basic things that you have to do. Usually you need new kingpins and bushings, then you have to have caster checked and camber. If the camber is off, the axle has to be bent. When all this is done, it will steer well but it does depend on the tires, and steering gear. If the R & P were to be installed, that would be the time to do it.
Regards,
Alan
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New User
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From: newton
The rack and pinion steering gear, when mounted on the beam, eliminates any "bump steer". On hot rods, it is now very popular as it eliminates the need for a steering box and drag link, only a column that can handle a u-joint output and a movable splined shaft with a u-joint at the rack end and a bracing bracket for the shaft. Mavel Mfg makes kits for beam axles, but the two I did were on F-100s and used Dodge Omni racks. They only involved attaching the output arms to the spindles, welding on the beam axle and through bolts (for safety) There is a company in Texas called RC Engineering who does conversions, I don't know of anyone advertising conversion kits. Since the rack has to be professionally mounted, a kit is not an option unless the beam axle is provided. It works great and in many cases, the elimination of the friction of the steering box, drag link and tie rod eliminates the need for power. If you need power, it is only necessary to run hoses from a power pump. This cleans up the frame and makes header design easier.
As far as your engines, I would use a 351W if you want torque and relative quiet. They are hard to find except as crate engines. Since all but a few in 1969 were 2 barrel low compression engines, they need aftermarket heads, pistons, headers and intake manifold and carburetor to perform well with gas mileage. If you want a racy engine, go for the 5 liter/302 which will rev and will output about the same HP. An early 302 also needs high compression and aftermarket heads. What I have gone to is the Brand C engine, 350CI, which with good stock heads, high compression, easy to find manifolds, headers, cams, you can easily have a 300+ HP engine for $1200, an impossibility with a Ford.
Personally, I would keep the 223, as it is plenty of power for the truck, and other than racing, it is just fine. Plenty of torque, I would gear it up to 3.50. (understand, I am an old guy) I think too much power in a truck is ridiculous unless you want wheelspin and smoke. The most ridiculous thing many truck owners have done is to put really big motors in the trucks that weigh so much that the truck won't steer, needs heavy front springs, and is seriously unbalanced front/rear balance wise.
If you present truck does not steer well, there are basic things that you have to do. Usually you need new kingpins and bushings, then you have to have caster checked and camber. If the camber is off, the axle has to be bent. When all this is done, it will steer well but it does depend on the tires, and steering gear. If the R & P were to be installed, that would be the time to do it.
Regards,
Alan
As far as your engines, I would use a 351W if you want torque and relative quiet. They are hard to find except as crate engines. Since all but a few in 1969 were 2 barrel low compression engines, they need aftermarket heads, pistons, headers and intake manifold and carburetor to perform well with gas mileage. If you want a racy engine, go for the 5 liter/302 which will rev and will output about the same HP. An early 302 also needs high compression and aftermarket heads. What I have gone to is the Brand C engine, 350CI, which with good stock heads, high compression, easy to find manifolds, headers, cams, you can easily have a 300+ HP engine for $1200, an impossibility with a Ford.
Personally, I would keep the 223, as it is plenty of power for the truck, and other than racing, it is just fine. Plenty of torque, I would gear it up to 3.50. (understand, I am an old guy) I think too much power in a truck is ridiculous unless you want wheelspin and smoke. The most ridiculous thing many truck owners have done is to put really big motors in the trucks that weigh so much that the truck won't steer, needs heavy front springs, and is seriously unbalanced front/rear balance wise.
If you present truck does not steer well, there are basic things that you have to do. Usually you need new kingpins and bushings, then you have to have caster checked and camber. If the camber is off, the axle has to be bent. When all this is done, it will steer well but it does depend on the tires, and steering gear. If the R & P were to be installed, that would be the time to do it.
Regards,
Alan
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