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Back up alarms ?

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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 12:43 PM
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Back up alarms ?

Anyone have any thoughts on installing a back up alarm? I'm thinking I'd like to wire it into my upfitter switches so I can turn it off in residential areas or when I don't have a trailer hooked up.

Anyone have a brand they like? and advice on how to wire it up?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 01:04 PM
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Sound like a good idea, however the uppfitter switches send power out, you only want to make or break the circuit. I usually use the blue grote ones. That means installing a switch somewhere inside your truck!
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 01:07 PM
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Why not just put it on the trailer so it will only sound off when hitched? I find them annoying the rest of the time. The only thing is, standard trailer plugs don't have a backup lead.

If you want to use an upfitter, you'll just need a relay. You could do it either NO or NC, whichever you prefer.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by bpounds
Why not just put it on the trailer so it will only sound off when hitched? I find them annoying the rest of the time. The only thing is, standard trailer plugs don't have a backup lead.

If you want to use an upfitter, you'll just need a relay. You could do it either NO or NC, whichever you prefer.
On some construction sites, I may want the alarm whether I have a trailer hooked or not, and I have 3 different trailers...seems like the truck would be a better spot.

I'm not a wiring guy, so I have no idea on where/how to install a relay.

I'm mentally wiring running from a back up light to the switch and then to the alarm. This would let the switch break the circuit if I wanted the alarm off. Is there a place I could tap the reverse light wire in the dash and save some wiring?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 01:29 PM
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You'll still want a relay, you don't want to overload the circuit. I don't know what a reverse signal draws, but you don't want to push it.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 02:36 PM
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Ok the relay is actually simple. Find a reverse wire (only hot while in reverse), probably near the harness for the back up sensor panel. This wire goes to 86 on the relay, then ground 85. Now the relay makes contact on the 30/87 when the truck is in reverse. Then run your switched power from an upfitter switch to the 87 pole on the relay and the 30 goes to a wire you run down the frame and to your back up alarm.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 02:41 PM
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If you are not clear on the use of a relay, you probably will want to get some help. But here is a brief description.

The new electronic beepers are very low current, so I don't think you need a relay due to any current concerns. In the simplest form, the beeper has two wires. One you wire into the reverse lamp circuit, the other you wire to ground. Then whenever the reverse lamps are hot, the beeper is on.

If you want to disable the beeper with an upfitter, you will need a relay with normally closed contacts (NC). You will insert these NC contacts between the reverse lamp wire and the beeper. At this point, the beeper will still work like it did before, and beep whenever the reverse lamps are hot.

But then you wire a lead from your upfitter switch (use #3 or 4 if possible) to the (+) side of the relay, and another wire from the (-) side of the relay to ground. Now when you flip the upfitter switch on, the relay will open the contacts interrupting the beeper circuit.

Well, that's a plain english attempt to describe it. Someone here probably has a schematic for relays to make it more graphic.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 02:49 PM
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To do it that way, change my description to use 87a as the wire for the alarm.


in the second picture 87a is not shown, but its the contact when the coil is off.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 03:44 PM
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why not cut the power wire going to the upfitter,and splice in the wire from the back up lights, then run the upfitter out wire to the backup alarm. No need for a relay
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by firemanpat29
why not cut the power wire going to the upfitter,and splice in the wire from the back up lights, then run the upfitter out wire to the backup alarm. No need for a relay

The next owner would love you for that. But to each his own. Just another way to skin that cat.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by bpounds
If you are not clear on the use of a relay, you probably will want to get some help. But here is a brief description.

The new electronic beepers are very low current, so I don't think you need a relay due to any current concerns. In the simplest form, the beeper has two wires. One you wire into the reverse lamp circuit, the other you wire to ground. Then whenever the reverse lamps are hot, the beeper is on.

If you want to disable the beeper with an upfitter, you will need a relay with normally closed contacts (NC). You will insert these NC contacts between the reverse lamp wire and the beeper. At this point, the beeper will still work like it did before, and beep whenever the reverse lamps are hot.

But then you wire a lead from your upfitter switch (use #3 or 4 if possible) to the (+) side of the relay, and another wire from the (-) side of the relay to ground. Now when you flip the upfitter switch on, the relay will open the contacts interrupting the beeper circuit.

Well, that's a plain english attempt to describe it. Someone here probably has a schematic for relays to make it more graphic.

Thanks for a very nice description of how to do this.

I do believe that I will try to do this sometime this week (weather permitting).

Question 1: If I understand your description correctly, you suggested a NC relay and then flipping the switch ON will kill the alarm. I think I want to reverse the thinking a bit. I think I want the alarm to be enabled when the switch is on, so would using a NO relay be the right way to do it?

Question 2: Does anyone have a good idea on where to amount the alarm itself? Most of the alarms I've seen seem to be about 4" x4" and are weatherproofed.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by bwestcott
Question 1: If I understand your description correctly, you suggested a NC relay and then flipping the switch ON will kill the alarm. I think I want to reverse the thinking a bit. I think I want the alarm to be enabled when the switch is on, so would using a NO relay be the right way to do it?
You could do that. But if you want to use the alarm only on demand, you could just wire it to an upfitter and not bother with the reverse lamp circuit. Then you could turn the alarm on anytime you wanted, even if you were not backing up. That could be handy anytime you want to get someones attention and let them know you were in motion. And you would not need a relay.

Originally Posted by bwestcott
Question 2: Does anyone have a good idea on where to amount the alarm itself? Most of the alarms I've seen seem to be about 4" x4" and are weatherproofed.
Any clear frame area should be fine. There should be plenty of space under there. Also, 4 x 4 is pretty big and old fashioned. They make them much smaller than that, although maybe not as durable.

WOLO BACK-UP ALARMS FOR CARS, TRUCKS, RV's INDUSTRIAL EQUIPMENT & MORE

Automobile, Truck & Motorcycle: Parts & Accessories

They also make one that replaces the backup lamp with a lamp that beeps and flashes. That won't work for what you want to do, but is an example of how small they can be.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 12:15 PM
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Just my 2 centavos worth....

I have a backup alarm installed. When it goes into reverse it starts beeping. It's been really handy escpecially in crowded mall parking lots where folks just seem to wanna hang out behind cars and chat. It's a safety thing and unless somebody is DEAF, they can't say they didn't know I was backing up.

Joe
 
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by msgtg
Just my 2 centavos worth....

In that case, you might prefer this one:

http://www.wolo-mfg.com/ba-80-stereo.wav

 
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 12:48 PM
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!!! LOL !!! Now we just need it to be a really husky male voice!!!

Joe
 
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