Tailgating!!
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 914
Likes: 71
From: Lavergne, Tn.
Tailgating!!
Well, not exactly what you might be thinking. No I'm not grilling and no one is driving too close behind me.
I thought since I built my bed for my 55, that I should go ahead and build the tailgate. So today I got a start, 1 1/4" tubing and 1x2 steel, tacked together to form the frame of the tailgate
I cut the center panel out of 16 gage steel.
Spent a lot of time trimming the center panel to give me a flush fit to the 1x2 side sections.
Now all I've got to do is tack the center panel and weld it in solid. The side you see is the inside of the tailgate. When I flip it over I'll try to add some character to the side you will see from outside.
I'll post again when I get it a little further along.
Andrew
I thought since I built my bed for my 55, that I should go ahead and build the tailgate. So today I got a start, 1 1/4" tubing and 1x2 steel, tacked together to form the frame of the tailgate
I cut the center panel out of 16 gage steel.
Spent a lot of time trimming the center panel to give me a flush fit to the 1x2 side sections.
Now all I've got to do is tack the center panel and weld it in solid. The side you see is the inside of the tailgate. When I flip it over I'll try to add some character to the side you will see from outside.
I'll post again when I get it a little further along.
Andrew
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
From: Marion,Iowa
very nice!... I plan on doing the same for mine...My idea was to take the ford scroll from the heaterbox and weld it in the lower corner of the gate...so its a small logo kinda like a newer take with an older flair!
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 914
Likes: 71
From: Lavergne, Tn.
Andrew
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 907
Likes: 1
From: Kansas City, Mo
Tailgate
Great work!!Are you going to put a couple verticle supports to give it strength in the center sections? chuck
Last edited by 49fordpickumup; Apr 8, 2009 at 09:47 PM. Reason: adding info
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 914
Likes: 71
From: Lavergne, Tn.
I've posted some pictures in my gallery of the bed I fabbed, but the pictures are incomplete due to some problems I've encountered when trying to upload photos. Photos show uploaded but are not there. If I ever figure it out I'll complete the gallery.
Thanks
Andrew
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2008
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 467
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From: White Hall , Illinois
Mighty fine work your doing there. You'll really have something to crow about when it's all done.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,125
Likes: 4
From: Olive Branch,Ms
I'm with 49fordpickumup are you going to put a couple verticle supports to give it strength in the center sections are maybe roll a bead in it. I wish I had the metal skills you have. Nice very nice
Gatein'...
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 914
Likes: 71
From: Lavergne, Tn.
I had thought about putting in center supports or a rolled bead, but I usually try to do something a "little" different. So that won't be the way I go on this one. Hopefully I won't wind up with a pile of welded up scrap metal. I post it up as soon as I get it to a point that you can look at it and tell where I'm headed with it.
Today hasn't started off very well for me. I sat down at my work table and started stitching the panel in place and ran out of mig wire right off. So I'm off to get more wire and pick up some 80 grit da paper. Maybe I'll get back on it this afternoon.
Andrew
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,958
Likes: 105
From: Houston
Looks good, are you using a special Stitch/Body welder?
I have access to a lincoln welder and JC Whitney offers a stitch/Body welder that just simply snap the lead into the the arc welder jaws and you got it for $70.
Was curious if that was requied for body repairs seeing as how I got two rusted fenders that I am tossing around of either using body filler to repair after cutting the rust out or weld in a patch panel.
I have access to a lincoln welder and JC Whitney offers a stitch/Body welder that just simply snap the lead into the the arc welder jaws and you got it for $70.
Was curious if that was requied for body repairs seeing as how I got two rusted fenders that I am tossing around of either using body filler to repair after cutting the rust out or weld in a patch panel.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 914
Likes: 71
From: Lavergne, Tn.
Looks good, are you using a special Stitch/Body welder?
I have access to a lincoln welder and JC Whitney offers a stitch/Body welder that just simply snap the lead into the the arc welder jaws and you got it for $70.
Was curious if that was requied for body repairs seeing as how I got two rusted fenders that I am tossing around of either using body filler to repair after cutting the rust out or weld in a patch panel.
I have access to a lincoln welder and JC Whitney offers a stitch/Body welder that just simply snap the lead into the the arc welder jaws and you got it for $70.
Was curious if that was requied for body repairs seeing as how I got two rusted fenders that I am tossing around of either using body filler to repair after cutting the rust out or weld in a patch panel.
I am however familiar with the item that you refer to from JC Whitney. Eastwood also carries one of those. My wife got me on for Xmas several years back and it did allow welding with a small rod on thin metal without the rod sticking. I was a little surprised because my impression was that it was a "gimmick". However, If you're going to spend $70 and I would advise you to save a little more and watch you local ads for a small 110 volt mig welder. Make sure you buy a brand name like lincoln, miller, hobart. Migs are really easy to set up and use and they are great on thin metal. My wife can even mig weld. With a little practice you'll be on your way. I bought a larger 220 volt mig and it has been one of the best investments I've ever made.
Andrew