best cam
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,931
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From: Ohio
best cam
could a get some suggestions for the best cams to use in a 351m or 400..itll be used for mainly mud boggin but i also be drivin the 50minute drive to get there so i cant get 2 mpg, i can live with 8-10..obviously from a mudders knowledge of what kind of power and when the engine makes it, is wt i wanna use..im going to bore the engine .30, flat top pistons, edelbrock/ wieand intake manifold, a good 600cfm carb, headers and 3" pipes with cherry bomb glasspacks if i decide to, but other than that i am NOT doing anything else to the engine internally or anything..so best suggestions on cams/ cam sets for what i listed..thanks in advance 
Posting Guru
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If you are going with the flat tops then your building a 400 not 351m, anyways the best flat tappet cams for these engines in my opinion are the comp cam extreme energy 256h or the xe262h, opne has a bit more torque and the other one a bit better mid range..
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Ohio
yea i dont know enough to see the difference on which one i'd have to build..im lookin to just be able to spin the tires through deep mud, so hopefully one of those will do the job
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From: iowa
I would look for tim meyer for the flatop pistons, you can get a flattop with zero deck for better quench and efficency. The stock pistons will be .060-.090 below deck.
I would use the weiand intake over the performer.
cam lunati 62501, or 62502.
I would use the weiand intake over the performer.
cam lunati 62501, or 62502.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Ohio
how do u get it balanced? take it to a shop? my friend works at a dyno shop n installes cams and what not to engines is that where i should go?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Ohio
i dont rele know what im lookin for so could u try and find them and post the link? and would the lunati or comp cam be better for boggin?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Ohio
ha well i have no knowledge for any of that stuff, still very very new to all of it, i know the basics but i have yet to ever build an engine, ive only helped my friends take them apart
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From: iowa
well excuse me, i have been drinking, deck clearence is from the top of the piston to the top of the block. Tim has some zero deck pistons, meaning they are level with the top of the block. Quench is from the top of the piston to the head, so that means the deck clearence plus the head gasket thickness.
Now a quench around .040-.045 is ideal for steel rods and street to racing. This produces a better flame travel on ignition and allows more compression without denonation. Also makes makes more power and efficency in simple. I had a hobby stock with as little as .027 quench last year.
Now a quench around .040-.045 is ideal for steel rods and street to racing. This produces a better flame travel on ignition and allows more compression without denonation. Also makes makes more power and efficency in simple. I had a hobby stock with as little as .027 quench last year.
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Since these blocks are old, most of them have been rebuilt several times meaning decking has happened, so in most of the cases as my case, TMIs 0 deck are actually a bit up deck like 0.010" or so...
TMI has 0 decked flat tops which are not a good idea to use with stock heads unless you are using a huge cam, those pistons will give you around 11.5:1, the ideas are the 13.75cc 0 deck ones, they will yield around 9.4-6 cr on stock heads, even old flat tops that were 0.067" down in the whole only gave you around 9.1-2 cr with stock heads...
TMI has 0 decked flat tops which are not a good idea to use with stock heads unless you are using a huge cam, those pistons will give you around 11.5:1, the ideas are the 13.75cc 0 deck ones, they will yield around 9.4-6 cr on stock heads, even old flat tops that were 0.067" down in the whole only gave you around 9.1-2 cr with stock heads...