Can anybody tell me if there is any easy way to change the fuels lines on the filter housing? I have a leak at the lower line from the fuel pump to the filter housing. Im intending on changing it out tommorow AM. However it appears that due to the placement of the hose clamp, the only way to touch the clamp is to remove the filter housing and get to the back of it. If I do this Im just gonna replace every fuel hose on it since I know theyre all old and brittle. Just looking for suggetstions about if theres any easier ways, or anything ealse that might be recommended to do at the same time while its out.

 

pull the filter housing out. Its about the only way to change them. The hoses are too short to do it any other way.

 

I'm having the same problems on my 96. I am so tired of fuel line leaks, fuel heater, and other crap you don't need. If that cpr electric pump kit was not so much $ I'd have one in a minute. Does anyone know of anything cheaper that gets rid of everything?

 

Time to resurrect this thread...

DO you have to remove anything else, like the HPOP, to remove the fuel bowl? WHat about the fuel pump?

 

Don't have to remove HPOP or Fuel Pump. The Bowl is actually the first thing to come out when replacing the fuel pump

 

If I end up replacing the fuel pump would I have to remove the turbo or anything to get to it?

 

Is yours a cali truck or 49er? Reason I ask is there is a little different procedure for both, but you don't have to remove the turbo for either. Only thing to be careful of is the tappet in the fuel pump, don't want it to drop down into the engine if you can help it. Couple of how-to write ups here that have a way to check the engine and make sure that cam lobe is at TDC so the tappet can't fall down

 

49er

No cali stuff here...

 

yup, pump is pretty easy on the 49er... just do a form search on 'Sam Miller', should be a write up around here, or check travis's links in the stickies. Plenty of threads on replacement. As I added above, the one thing to watch out for is the tappet on the pump. This can be completely avoided by rotating the engine over by hand so the lobe for the fuel pump is at TDC. that should be in one of the direction sets too. Let me know if you still are having trouble finding a decent thread, i'll see if i have something bookmarked on my home computer tonight

 

FWIW, I used the "Miller Guide" when I did the pump swap last year. Used a standard craftman combo wrench for the banjo bolt (1.25") and it worked fine...just time consuming having to flip it. Didn't rotate the cam up and had no issue with the tappet dropping out.

If you are gonna pull the bowl, I'd encourage you to swap the o-rings, if you haven't done this lately.

 

Rotating the cam up is insurance. Some have tappets that fall and some don't. Mine stayed in the pump also, but some have had them fall through and are now in the pan...

Up to you.

 

Good point - and insurance without the premium...always a good deal!

 

the bowl is really easy to get out. I'd get a bowl/fpr o ring kit from bob at dieselorings.com for $12. got mine in like 2 days. Some 3/8 and 5/16" fuel line (sae 30r9) from a parts store. And a 1.25" combo wrench. When I did my pump it took like 2 small turns and I was able to hand spin the banjo bolt on out. On the camshaft pulley there is a bump that signifies the eccentric on the camshaft. Turn that to the 11 oclock position (when facing the truck) with a15/16"socket. Then it is safe to pull the pump. For added assurance you can wiggle it up slowly and get your finger underneath and apply pressure against the side of the tappet. Might as well clean engine while its all out. I found tools, old hose, o rings, and probably an animal nest!

 

Yeah, I know there's a couple small sockets hidden in the valley somewhere.

I'm not sure if it needs a pump yet. It looks like my leak is coming from the fuel bowl but not positive. WHere's the weap hole on the pump?

I'm getting the bowl/fpr kit from Clay at Riffraff for that same price, and I can pick it up in person on my way back home.