Ok heres is where I am at. I installed the intake gaskets using enough gaskacinh to hold a bus to a cieling trust me they did not move. I then torqued the intake down in 5 ft lb increments in the torque sequence in my haynes manual. Installed everything else even new valve cover gaskets. Pulled plugs cleaned the oil off of them, Every plug is soaked with oil, cranked the motor to hopefully blow some of the oil out. I did push the valve seals down again onto the guide bosses and when I say i pushed them with a screw driver i lightly pressed directly down with the flat end of the screwdriver not the sharp end. Then Proceeded to start the truck up. Had maybe 20 seconds of light to no smoke and then she openend up again and is now no better than before. Now I'm not saying anybody is wrong or that I'm perfect but I don't see myself botching an intake gasket install twice in a row and the heads went on the same sides that they came off and the intake is the same. When I changed the intake in the dark with it raining and just using my back to install it I didn't have any of these problems. I am confident that it isn't the intake gaskets. I just don't see how if the valve seal is up on the valve stem how oil isn't allowed to run down the guides onto the valve and into the cylinder. I am extremely grateful for everyone's help but I am almost to the point of just running this thing off a cliff at least then ill get some enjoyment out of the smoke. Thanks Kyle.

 

vavle seals for sure now lol,,,then if its not those its the rings.

 

Just so I'm clear are the valve seals supposed to stay on the heads and let the valve guides slide through them or are they supposed to remain stationary on the stems and go up and down with the motion of the valves? I didn't remove any of the pistons from the cylinder so I am sure its not rings.

 

Are they big and rubber or white and small?

If they are white (or blue sometimes) they are teflon seals and stay on the valve guides.

The big rubber ones just go up and down with the valve stem.

Seems weird if everything was kosher before you freshened it up and now and it's a sick dog.

With the engine running and if you pull the PCV out of the valve cover does a ton of oil vapor come streaming out? That would be rings from blowby.

Josh

 

Ok well Bullitt i owe you a six pack you're good.They are the big rubber umbrella seals. I no blowby when I pull the pcv out. Ok here is where I'm at. I have the intake pulled again. I spoke with both machine shops in town and they both emphasized how much of a pain it is to get the intake on right. Guess I must have lucked out the first time. Anyways I can see where the oil is being sucked through the intake ports from underneath the intake. Now I have another set of victor reinz gaskets. It dawned on me though, could I be needing a different gasket set. The gaskets that I have been getting have larger intake openings than the heads I am thinking to be able to use on the old style heads with the huge intake ports. What do you guys think about this? Second I am going to try it useing permatex black instead of the cork front and rear seals this time to hopefully make the intake seat lower. One of the machinest told me to run a chain from the front to the back of the engine then use a bottle jack under the chain to actually use its force to seat the intake into place and then torque it down with the bolts. I plan on doing that. So right now I just need your guy's opinion on the gaskets? Will these work or do I need to find a different set?

 

There are 3 different styles of the graphite style Victor gaskets, and 1 of the standard style.

Victor 95158SG for Medium Riser
Victor 95159SG for Low Riser/ Cobra Jet will work with Standard heads
Victor MS15166X is Standard

The first gasket may cause problems on the top of the ports, the other two are perfectly fine.

The FE intake is unique, no doubt about that. I have done several dozen FE intakes, each one has more or less had it's quirks. The main tip I have is to drop the distributor down the hole before torquing the bolts. Nothing sucks more than to think you have the intake set and torqued and find the distributor won't go down. And with the gasket cinched and silicone set, you're toast and have to start all over again.

Josh

 

So all of the gaskets should be fine for the bottom of the ports? The gasket matches the top and sides of the ports great but is lower than the bottom of the intake port.

 

All 3 gaskets should be fine for the lower part of the intake port. Regardless if they match what your intake and head are doing.

The Medium riser version 95158SG is just a "touch" taller over the standard versions and touch wider, but the bottom or floor of the port is raised which could help seal your intake better.

I also recommend the standard Fel-Pro gasket and also the Mr. Gasket seal.

Are you dealing with a factory iron intake and heads or an aftermarket aluminum intake?

 

Stock truck four barrel cast iron intake and stock cast iron heads.

 

Ok guys well I tried another set of the regular gaskets and a set of the medium riser gaskets. I do not think it is the intake gaskets as my problem has not changed. I with the intake set down on the gaskets not torqued I can not slide a feeler guager underneath it at the top or bottom so I think its good. I am about ready to just sell the truck I don't even want to look at it anymore. I am going to try restricting the oil flow to one side of the heads at a time using a roll pin in the oil galleys. Also going to change the valve seals on one side and see if the smoke changes on that side. Anymore Ideas? Thanks for your help.

 

Holley 60 to 90 jet in the oil feed.

 

Thanks Bullit

 

hey Dude I think it's probably something to due with your rockerarms. I had this problem on my 390 and it had a broken rocker shaft . These 390's are known for this as I keep spares . Make sure you tighten them in the right sequence and keep the valve covers off and coil disconected and turn the motor over to see if all the cylinders valves are functioning. Just a thought...

 

Ill check on it ford guy but I'm doubting it is as I do them in sequence and to the torque settings in the book each time. I am really thinking valve seals.

 

If you're getting a little smoke-free time when you first start it, I would suspect the valve covers are loading up with oil, either worn rocker shafts/ rockers, drainback holes plugged, which you would have probably noticed by now, or, did you put the tins back under the rocker assemblies when you put it back together? The tins divert a lot of the oil away from the stems, and should be in there, especially on an engine with some miles on it. The seals could be brand new, and it'll smoke like a stove if it's flooded with oil. An old set of valve covers with the tops cut out would let you run it and see what's happening.
If it's leaking through the intake gaskets, you should be able to see where- sometimes the intake isn't machined square, and you'll see that the gasket is compressed more on the top than the bottom, and sucking air/oil at the bottom.
As far as the machinist suggesting the bottle jack thing, time to look for another machinist- talk about Primitive Pete...