Dead Drivers Door
Dead Drivers Door
I have a 2005 f150 crew cab. The drivers front door is DEAD, neither the locks nor the windows work. I have cleaned the window switch contacts and checked all fuses.The locks work at the other doors' switches but not the windows. Also the radio does not cut off when you open the door after shut off and key removal. The locks all still work with the keyless. I have checked the door wiring plugs in the drivers kick, and checked the wires under the door foot plate cover going towards the back. Is there a main harness plug going in or in the door? Thanks for any help in advance.
I know there is a plug in the door for the mirrors, so there must be one for the window switches. I can't see it just coming unpluged by itself but obviously something has gone open. This isn't much help. Good Luck and keep us posted on this.
Yeah, i forgot to mention no power mirror control ethier, like i said the whole door is dead, i know the radio shutoff works off the door latch, it's crazy, it's everything in the door. thanks for the quick reply!
Here is what I would do without a wiring diagram. You said you checked the plugs behind the drivers side kick panel. I would unplug those and take a voltmeter or test light and probe the contacts at the plug comming from under the dash looking for battery. There should be battery on a couple if not more of those. If I found battery there, then I would take apart or open up that cable between the piller and the door and make sure the wires in there haven't broken. By the way, has your truck been exposed to water that may have coroded contacts inside the plug(s)?
So the door is 100% dead right?
And the door chime doesn't work when keys are in/door open?
There can be only 1 thing then. Right above the bottom door hinge there is a wiring harness connection. This plug routes all the wires in/out of your door.
Take that plug loose and clean all the contacts in there. Sometimes some moisture can get in there and prevent good contact.
I took a pic with my phone, but I need to find a Wi-Fi to send it. If I find one today, I'll upload the pics so you can see what I'm talking about
And the door chime doesn't work when keys are in/door open?
There can be only 1 thing then. Right above the bottom door hinge there is a wiring harness connection. This plug routes all the wires in/out of your door.
Take that plug loose and clean all the contacts in there. Sometimes some moisture can get in there and prevent good contact.
I took a pic with my phone, but I need to find a Wi-Fi to send it. If I find one today, I'll upload the pics so you can see what I'm talking about
So the door is 100% dead right?
And the door chime doesn't work when keys are in/door open?
There can be only 1 thing then. Right above the bottom door hinge there is a wiring harness connection. This plug routes all the wires in/out of your door.
Take that plug loose and clean all the contacts in there. Sometimes some moisture can get in there and prevent good contact.
I took a pic with my phone, but I need to find a Wi-Fi to send it. If I find one today, I'll upload the pics so you can see what I'm talking about
And the door chime doesn't work when keys are in/door open?
There can be only 1 thing then. Right above the bottom door hinge there is a wiring harness connection. This plug routes all the wires in/out of your door.
Take that plug loose and clean all the contacts in there. Sometimes some moisture can get in there and prevent good contact.
I took a pic with my phone, but I need to find a Wi-Fi to send it. If I find one today, I'll upload the pics so you can see what I'm talking about
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Most electrical problems usually occur where theres heat or movement. The drivers door is no exception. I would check the connectors and see if the terminal ends inside are getting good contact. Try cleaning them with contact cleaner. I have had to replace a few of these terminal ends because the terminal ends inside the connector would move inside the connector housing as the connector ends were being pressed together, thus creating an open in the circuit. I would check the voltage at the connector using a digital voltmeter to insure you are getting 12 volts of power at the connector. A test light will only tell your getting power but it will not measure how much. Hope this helps!
thanks for all the help. i don't have any plugs in the door jam, it is just a boot with the wires going through it from the door into the truck. all the wires look good in there also. is there a module for just the driver's door that could be bad?
sorry for the delay if you're still checking. nope, no molex plugs just the boot in the door jam, then the wires run in through the kick, where theres 3 plugs to connect them to the truck wiring. i've checked those plugs for corresion and tightness.
Not all models have that connector. Just pull both ends of the rubber boot out and cut the boot at the tie downs so the boot can be slid up the loom far enough to inspect the wires. You probably have a broken ground in there or several wires broken.
Ford started the mulitpin bulkhead connections in '06 (Late '05). My '05 (build date 3/2-approx.) doesn't have it but a buddy of mine has it (11/13?).
Homer's right, I have found a few of my wires on the truck side of that "bundle" getting a lit'l scuffed from rubbing against a few of the harder nylon connectors and a head of a grounding bolt.
The wires seemed to have a bit of insulation still left so I coated the scuffed area with some liquid tape and covered the area with some of this: Expandable Sleeving. Nylon Sleeving. Polyester Expandable Sleeving (I had some with the Kevlar reinforcement.)
I just can't see the issue going back to the CJB. Has to be local... (?)
Homer's right, I have found a few of my wires on the truck side of that "bundle" getting a lit'l scuffed from rubbing against a few of the harder nylon connectors and a head of a grounding bolt.
The wires seemed to have a bit of insulation still left so I coated the scuffed area with some liquid tape and covered the area with some of this: Expandable Sleeving. Nylon Sleeving. Polyester Expandable Sleeving (I had some with the Kevlar reinforcement.)
I just can't see the issue going back to the CJB. Has to be local... (?)











