I just got me my first F150. It had a bad transmission which I replaced. Apparently the previous owner had it rebuilt..and whoever rebuilt it placed one of the discs in the wrong way around! Either way, it now has a 'new'/rebuilt transmission and generally runs fine.

I've noticed that the mpg is at about 13mpg at best, and that it runs a little rough at idle in Park or Neutral. I changed spark plugs and spark plug wires..and ran seafoam through the intake. It got a little better, but it's still running slightly rough. When I shift into Park (or Neutral), the engine starts idling a little rough and then 'evens' out after a few seconds. The same happens when I'm in Park (or Neutral) and I turn the A/C off.

So, I pulled the codes, first I did the KOEO test..and then one with the engine running test. Here are the KOEO codes:

33 - EGR Valve opening not detected
133 - [Couldn't find that one]

The KOER Engine Running Test put out these:
116 - ECT outside test limits during KOEO or KOER tests
172 - HEGO shows system always lean
313 - Thermactor air not bypassed during self-test
632 - Overdrive cancel switch not changing states (E4OD)
213 - Spout circuit open
631 - Overdrive cancel indicator light circuit failure

Now, codes 631 and 632 I don't think are quite correct. I do know that the overdrive off light comes on when I hit the button on the shifter, so at the very least 631 can't be correct.

So, as I'm a 'budding' F150 mechanic...could someone give me some guideance as what I need to tackle next?

 

It would probably be best to clear the codes but keep them for future reference. Drive it a little and recheck the codes and see which ones come back.

The 213 code maybe either due to the spout plug missing or you have a distributor problem with the TFI module.

Code 116 - Is the motor warmed up at the time you checked the codes?

I'd have to look thru my book with the scanner I have to see what might be wrong according to the other codes.

 

Well, the 116 I sort of dismissed, as the truck was lukewarm at best when I ran the test. So, it wasn't a hot engine.

I just changed the spark plugs and the spark plug wires, incidently. The old ones were well worn and had a uniform sandy appearance. In comparison, the #6 cylinder spark plug had more deposit on it than the others, but also a sandy appearance.

Now...what/where is the SPOUT plug? There is a plug hanging loosely down from the harness that also holds the plugs for the EGR solenoids and the EGR sensor. Haven't been able to find anything that might plug into. I figured that it is something this particular model truck doesn't have???

 

I tried to find a picture to help you know what it looks like. It should be a small square connector with two wires going into it. The part of the connector that plugs in would be like a cap. If that is not there, your timing will not adjust it would stay at the 10 degree base timing all the time.



Hope this helps. The spout connector should be fairly close to the distributor.

If the picture doesn't appear check my gallery and see what the spout connector should look like.

 

Ahhh! THAT might be the problem. That 'mystery' plug I mentioned doesn't have a plastic end cap. I assume it needs it. Going to have to find one of those. I sure hope that takes care of the rough idling.

Here's a photo of it:


http://picasaweb.google.com/StefanSc...54169386850706

 

I'm not sure if that wire you indicated is in fact a spout connector. Hopefully someone here with the same type motor you have can give you a better idea what it is. Have you tried to check the timing and raise the rpm's to see if it changes?

 

Nope..that's not the SPOUT connector - I think it's an extra connector for a third vacuum solenoid that some model F150's probably have. My SPOUT is connected to the harness that goes to the ICM (Ignition Control Module), which in my truck is fender mounted...and that SPOUT has the right connector and I checked it..it's in good condition.

So..back to square 1. I then went ahead and checked the EGR sensor. It looks good to me, i.e. the push rod in there moves freely. Doesn't mean the electrics aren't working...but I don't think that's it. What I did notice though, is that the EGR (when looking inside it after the sensor is out) has a spring in it, which pushes back a plate (i.e. towards the EGR tube), it also is clean. I assume that the sensor senses whether that plate is up towards it, or away from it. In my EGR the plate is away from the sensor, i.e. the sensor rod is extended.

Now, I don't know if that means it is wide open or closed. I fiddled with the plate, which you can push from the back and it moves with some resistance from the spring. So...I don't know what that means, but my feeling is that the EGR valve isn't seized/crudded shut.

I also checked the EGR tube and it appears to be in a relatively good condition, i.e. not split/no leaks I can see.

So...my guess now is that the ICM might be bad. My question though is, if the truck has a bad ICM...will it even still run?

 

Have you checked to see if there is any carbon build up just behind the throttle plates? That can give you an even idle.