Will I be okay putting Rotella T synthetic 5-40 in a 95 xlt 3.0l I have the jug
in my hands right nnnnow

 

Why not Mobil 1?

Go for it!!!

 

Yeah why not a real synthetic, and why not 5W20 or 0W20.

 

Is Mobil-1 still a real synthetic? I am almost certain that Castrol Syntec is not. I recently found some old oils and grease cartridges I bought a long time ago at a big Castrol sale. The grease cartridge is leaking; the liquid oil is separating from the soap. It that stuff can't remain stable just sitting on the shelf, I'm not sure how well it will hold up in actual use. It's hard to tell the condition of the motor oil, though.

 

[quote=ftv37;7331598]Will I be okay putting Rotella T synthetic 5-40 in a 95 xlt 3.0l I have the jug
in my hands right nnnnow



hummmmm---a couple of questions. Your from Oregon right? Shows that you are still having below freezing weather. Under your hood it will read 5W-30. That means 5 winter, 30 summer. If I was in your situation i would go more of a thicker oil on the winter side like 10W-30.

You should stick with the same brand and detergent. The detergent in oil is allot like your laundry detergent. The stronger it is the more it will clean. This same theory holds true in the valve area and pan. An stronger formula will break away the carbon and eventually block passage and could seize your motor. My father used to buy whatever was on sale when he didn't know any better as a young man for his 1974 Ford Country Squire station wagon. Had the big block 400. Notice how I said "HAD!?!" Well, he was losing performance from the beast and took the valve covers off. Guess what? You even had an Aunt that made a cake and popped it out of the pan? Same thing here. Rocker arms and passages were plugged and seized up. Only because he changed brands like a normal guy would change his socks.

5-40 is the opposite of what you need right no when it is cold. This mix would be better in the summer heat.

Try finding out what the previous owner used and try and stick with the same blood.

High mileage cars need an easy thin mix I do believe that, but not so much at your overall vehicles expense. Stay easy with your ride and it will stay easy with you.

 

You have to go to a 5w30 in winter, here in the great white north anything over that gums up at -40. I use the cheap stuff from Canadian Tire, we tested it at work and at 10$ for a 4 lt jug was better that 20$ for Castrol or Pennsoil.

 

I've been using Castrol HM 10w-30 in it but was planning a trip back east this
summer and was wanting extra protection,I pull alot of 7%plus grade hills around here sometimes at 100+degrees here in eastern Oregon

 

Keep using the Castrol or Mobil , put in a can of MOLYSLIP (Molybdenum Dysulphide) in the summer.

 

In the 3.0l, go with a 5W-30, or 0W-30. I run M1 0W-30 in my Sable and Windstar with no ill effects, except maybe easier starting and slightly better gas mileage.

For a 4.0l, the Rotella 5W-40 should be okay. The 4.0l likes a thicker oil. I just run cheaper 5W-30 in mine, as it doesn't stay in long enough to make a difference. The Check Oil light comes on every 4-600 miles or so.

 

Oh really, I found my 4.0L likes a thinner lighter oil. Better gas mileage, more performance, and the oil pressure gauge registers with a lighter oil. When I use heavier oils, like 5W30 or 10W30, the oil pressure gauge doesn't respond. I know its a dummy switch, but the dummy switch works with a lighter oil on my vehicle. I am currently running 5W20. I want to be running 0W20 but I can't get that oil locally.

 

Can I use it as a first flush and then go to the Mobile 5w-30,might as well
use it(opened the jug) if I can so I don't waste it.I don't want to hurt the
motor

 

Just use it. Oil is oil. You won't feel any difference.

 

Do you have leaks from the oil level switch as well? Or is it coming from all over the place? Mine was doing both, so I never used any fancy oils. Like yours, the oil didn't stay in the engine for very long. That is, until I replaced all the gaskets and seals.

I eventually replaced the oil level switch with one I got from the salvage yard. I think Ford wants something like $80 for it. The key to finding a non-leaking switch at the salvage yard is to first see if the outside of the switch is covered with oil. If so, don't bother looking any further. If not, pull it out and see if there is oil in the switch where the connector plugs in. If so, leave that one. If not, it's probably not leaking, and worth taking. I've found a couple so far, and keeping them as spares in case the ones I'm using now start leaking again. The original switches on two of my cars have had pretty bad track records.

Now I use the fancier oils, like Mobil 1, and won't have to worry about refilling every 1000 miles. Of course, now that the engines have more than 140k miles on them, I may have to start looking at oils made for high mileage vehicles. What's so special about those, anyway?

 

I routinely run 10-40 Maxlife Valvoline, its my preferred oil. All Aerostars qualify as high mileage engines by this time. Don't worry about flushing, just run it until next oil change.

 

i use whatever is on sale for less than $1.50 a qt. in 5w or 10w30.
usually Havoline or Chevron Supreme. on sale Purolator filters

used to feed the old girl all the expensive stuff when she was new and shiny like Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec "synthetic" as thick as 20w50. she got Pure One Purolators then also.
she ran well with it all.

like the way the 4L sounds starting cold in the winter time below freezing with the 5w30, no noises and oil pressure comes up immediately.

wife says she can hear a tick tick tick when i start the old girl, the van that is. but i can't hear it. guess she, the Aero, may have a few noises at her age, I have lots of creeks, groans and squeaks at my age.