Since I benefitted immensely from this thread I wanted to share my solution. I was getting the 4WD wrench alarm. I had previously swapped out the transfer case actuator so I knew it was good, and I tested it by driving down the alley in 4WD low. I have a 2010 F150 with about 140K miles, which has the vacuum solenoid on the driver's side on top of the brake controller. I purchased a hand vacuum pump and used the information in the original post to determine that the vacuum system was all good. (I did replace the vacuum solenoid because it was only $30 and 5 minutes to swap out.) I lifted the front wheels, connected the hand vacuum pump to the line coming from the solenoid and pumped vacuum down to 20 inches, where it stayed. I then turned each wheel and watched to see if the axle shaft turned with the wheel. Passenger side axle did not turn, driver side axle did. Released the vacuum and both axles turned. So I knew that the driver side actuator was stuck in the engaged position. I watched a few YouTube videos on how to swap out the actuator, purchased the new actuator from the local Ford dealer because they had it in stock (even though it was 50% more than online), and did the swap. You will need a few jack stands, a jack for holding the suspension up while you work with it and a bearing puller to help break the ball joints apart. In addition to basic metric sockets, you will need 18mm and 21mm deep sockets and a torque wrench capable of 185 ft lbs to put the brake caliper frame back on (I rented one). I used a Hayne's manual for the torque specs, but otherwise it is worthless for this task. Some of the videos online mention the correct torque specs as well. One important note is to not grease the axle any more than what comes with the new actuator, despite what you may see on some YouTube videos (got this tip from the Ford mechanic when I purchased the part).

When I removed the old actuator, I found that the gear ring had separated from the actuator bellows and so just kind of floated around inside. I suspect that it could have floated to the disengaged position if it wanted.

 

2102 F150 5.0 XLT 4x4
262,000KM (163,000miles)

I have 2 vacuum related issues. Perhaps unrelated… but perhaps the same cause?

1. When I switch into 4WD if seems that the system is engaged, but when I start up a hill and the truck is under load it will buck and bang like it is skipping gears somewhere in the front drivetrain. Also, the right front wheel fails to engage 4x4. No power to the right front when stuck in the muck. Left front and rear get power but not the front right (regardless of diff lock)
2. When pressing defrost button, the infamous defrost actuator grind noise occurs. The sound goes away when the vent position is changed to feet or eyeballs. The radiator fan also kicks in while on defrost and continues for a minute after turning the defrost off.

My first thought was the right front IWE is bad... Until then the actuator noise started… and then I thought that it may be related if they are controlled by the same vacuum system…?

I will do some poking around and try to see if there are any leaks in the lines or if any check valves are bad before I replace the defrost actuator and IWE. I was wondering if may be the solenoid?

If there is only one vacuum line from the intake and the solenoid distributes vacuum to both the airflow to the cab and the IWE… maybe that is the issue right there?

Any thoughts on these issues? Guidance?

Thx!

 

The solenoid for the IWE system does not have anything to do with the climate control system. Get yourself a vacuum gage, or better yet, a vacuum pump with gage. Otherwise you are just guessing. But since we are guessing, I think you have two separate problems.

TC

 

I have a 2006 F150 XLT 5.4L 4x4 automatic 173,xxx supercab. I got it at around 168,xxx for $2,800 from orig. $5k asking price. I've been running through it to give my son as a 16th bday gift. i collect fords & lincolns old & new. I LOVE FORD!!! Guy told me when i got it that it had a rough idle he was very forward & easy going. he said he aint the mechanic type as im not either but im learning alot. he said hed been told it was catalytic or injector. i had it inspected & they passed it with flying colors saying i ot a steal on it. i since then have done the following:

new motocraft platinum plugs & edelbrock maxfire coils

motocraft oil & oil filter

motocraft fuel filter

radiator flush

new fuse box & inertia switch

new doorman iwe actuators

new doorman 4x4 vacuum line assembly

new 4x4 vacuum solenoid (doorman)

new pcv tube & connectors

drained & flushed transfer case & filled with new motocraft mercon lv

cleaned maf sensor

cleaned intake

new intake gaskets

new thermostat & coolant crossover & gaskets

new throttle body

new vmv tube & connectors

new radio suppression capacitors

new altenator

new starter

new battery

new cables & terminals

new leds atw around except dash with relays

new ipr or fuel rail pressure/temp sensor

new imrc or intake manifold runner control module

new bosch o2 sensors all 4





....ive been thorough on the processes & specs yet ive still got a very loud hissing from driver side engine area & rough idle with engine light coming on. it dies even occassionally. a/c works great nothing leaks ever & nothing is reading on gauges as far as overheating, etc. aside from passenger air bag se sor light & the engine light its perfect. i reset it daily with my obd2 scanner. i cant find the sourse of the hissing which i presume to be a vacuum leak. also, my front end is still making the grinding clacking sound when driving & rear end makes moaning groaning sound sometimes 4x4 w0rks fine though kicks right in & ive repaced jt all as i listed above what csn i do???

 

Check the vacuum hose from the purge valve to the back of the intake manifold.

 

Focusing on the grinding noise... I've been chasing the same thing... You likely have a vacuum leak that is not pulling the front axle hubs fully out of lockout.

I've replaced what you have and have had it on my list of troubleshooting,...

For now, driving around with the front hubs engaged... uggh. let me know what you find. I have my suspicions on mine but do not have an obvious vacuum leak (hissing) like you do... use a vacuum line to your ear to find the source of the vacuum leak if you follow me...

 

man bro i love ford but dont they make it hard to do lbvs im back in here now with it so ill post soon as i know but thank yao so much

 

https://share.icloud.com/photos/08fb...y7E3BMkZyE1Cxg

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0de4...sYlrcr6OzsbPeA

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b8H...fRw6AUuHZBXyxg

above are links to my iCloud Photos of a few videos I took today trying to understand why this is happening. Iwe and CV are new parts. Iwe is doorman and cv is duralast. Please tell me wtf is the problem here because I have everything aligned proper but when I torque down the bearing bolts it disengages with no vacuumed applied then Engages when I do apply vacuum. This is a 2004 f150 xlt crew crewcab with the 5.4l in it and the setup is vac=2WH no vac=4h & 4L.
understanings going in I am manually placing vacuum to Iwe and attempting complet proper install of new parts to fix a system that had stopped working as a result of water from switch geting in pass Iwe causing drivers side to skip in and out of gear so he didn’t ever put it into 4x4 for two year forgot to mention this is ESOF on the dash but you maybe already understood that

 

Recently bought a 2006 f150 4x4 I have changed the motor on transfer case changed the actuators on both front hubs when I went the change the vacuum selenoid it looks like it was bypassed selenoid not there just a bunch of wires a fuse and some type of breaker box Ok I want to go back to original set up but not sure on wires that go to the new vacuum selenoid Any help or pictures would be great

 

Solenoid! take a pic and post it so we know what you are looking at.

 

it is not there to take a picture it is supposed to be by the battery on firewall

 

of the wires and crap...where it's supposed to be. I wanna see this breaker box you see.

 

Is it possible to blow water out of an iwe without disassembly?

 

the IWE is packed with grease , unless it's blown out. there's a spring in there that helps it move. Did you blow out the lines ?