The noise sounds like it could be either side, replace the drives side too, if it isnt bad now it will go bad soon

 

I have a question about the IWE and air suspension, and apologize in advance if there is a better place to post than this. But, after reading through this all, here is my question regarding my '05 EB EXPY 4x4 131k in socal. My air suspension compressor runs quite often. I have checked the vacuum lines, and there are no leaks. I tested the IEW and no leaks, and no binding. It seems like it is all operational. How can I tell if the entire compressor needs to be changed, or just the dryer? Is there a better aftermarket compressor or who sells the best remanufactured product? Any advice is appreciated.

 

First of all I want to say this thread has been very helpful. I'll be the first to admit I don't know a lot about 4x4 systems. Here's my story.

I put a 2" leveling kit on my truck, in doing so I messed up my CV axle and had to pull it, and take the boot off and reinsert the retaining clip and put the bearings back in. Anyways, I got that done, axle is perfect!

While taking the axle off I broke two bolt tabs off of the IWE actuator. I put the one screw in I Could.

I drove the truck for about 30 miles and started to hear the grinding noise everyone is talking about on here, if I hit the brake, let off the gas, or put it in 4x4 it goes away.

To be honest, I didn't even know it was a 4x4 actuator when I broke it. I thought it was an ABS ring. So I'm taking full blame here, My main question. Is it safe to say that the reason I'm grinding is because of the two broken tabs? Also its a 2010 but I'm sure its the same ....

Any help would be greatly appreciated guys. I think I might call the dealer in the morning and just have them deal with it.

 

"Is it safe to say that the reason I'm grinding is because of the two broken tabs?"

Most likely. You'll save a lot in labor and parts (buy online) if you replace it yourself...you already know how it all goes together now!

 

yes sir new to ford trucks my son just bought a 2004 ford f150 it goes into 4x4 but hubs not locking what would you suggest first, thanks for your help

 

Luckily for me a new actuator fixed my grinding issue. Good luck SLC with your sons truck. I've found a vast bit of knowledge on here!

 

Again thank you for the write up, and again we are new to ford trucks, I did pull the vac line off at the wheel yesterday and no vac there however hubs are not locked in transfer is working does this sound like the solenold?? thanks

 

slc here again I have checked and the hubs are not locked and I have no vac going to them??? HELP

 

I would start with the solenoid, cheap and easy....as well as check for tubes intact and not leaking. If the hubs are not locked with the engine off....jack up and rotate tire and shaft does not turn, then the actuator is toast. I got them on Amazon for much less $$ and they are identical and same mfr as from dealer. Not a difficult install. I replaced the tube assemblies and check valves at the same time just to be sure nothing was overlooked. I would also recommend replacing bith actuators even if one seems to be OK. I think this is what most guys in this great thread have recommended.
And thanks to the OP and others that contributed their stories, saved me a lot of grief and $$$!

 

Thanks for your response, ok what and where are the actuators there is no vac to the hubs, I think the check values are bad as there is no vac on them but when I pull line off there is I tried to pressure check the hubs would not pump up at all nothing so I guess I have to assume whatever the problem it s in the hubs can they be taken apart and cleaned greased or is it the actuators and are they in the hubs thanks again

 

Hi guys I was thankfully referred to this thread by 60DRB after putting up another post describing the grind and clunk. I think I need a solenoid base upon the following troubleshooting. With truck running removed lines at both hubs, no vacuum at all on either side.
Next up top to the source remove line from intake before first check valve, plenty of vacuum here, next removed and checked both check valves, both operate properly. I next removed the solenoid, I can not suck or blow air in the bottom port, the top port flows air in both direction, is this normal operation when it is out of the truck or is it stuck closed. I did the temporary removal of the intake hose and plugged off went for a 20 or so mile ride without incident. I am pretty sure that the solenoid is the culprit here, can anyone think the same?
thanks Vic

 

Im no expert, but learned a lot going through this thread and replacing all the components in the system on my '04.
IMO if you have had clunking, grinding or rattle coming from the hub actuator, I would just plan on replacing both of them. There isnt a lot of "meat" on the splines, so any amount of grinding is sure to have cracked or worn the splines. The splines on the actuator seem to be a softer "sacrificial" material to prevent further damage.
A little detail from my story....just in case it may help others with similar symptoms. The noise sounded exactly like detonation. It wasnt loud and only showed up under a load, under throttle, on a hill etc, justbas detonation would. Just cruising when vacuum was higher the noise was not detectable. I chased detonation with different fuel and playing with the timing on Edge box before I figured out it was the hubs. Put it in 4wd and the noise would go away....bingo! At least now I knew the source.
I replaced the solenoid, no change, check valves no change...i didnt have time to check the hubs at the time so I did the quick/cheap and easy stuff first.
I replaced the noisy hub only at first....makes sense right?....wrong. The hub that didnt make noise was worn down even more and the bellows was leaking, which caused the opposite hub to grind. Thats why I would only recommend doing both hubs at the same time and be SURE the splines and hub are fully seated before snugging the bolts or it may crack the new hub....dont ask how I learned this.

 

ok few questions, first where can you get the check valves?? also is it worth taking actuators apart to clean and grease or just replace, thanks for your help

 

OK so here is an update on my situation above, after troubleshooting as explained above my summation was the solenoid. I picked one up the other day (the updated one) and installed. After $40 and 15 mins of time to install I started the truck, pulled off the vacuum hose at each hub and by the finger test I had good vacuum on each side after previously having none. I have driven around 100 miles without the issue returning, seems like this was the fix for me. Thanks again to the originator and all the contributors to this thread, I would have been lost without it.
Vic

 

Hey guys i replaced my iwe solenoid and checked my vacuum it is at 20"of hg but my cv shafts are not free they are still turning, could the iwe be stuck in the actuator.