same truck, just w/ 4 inch flair fiberglass fenders in the front. Thank's to Chad Mcneil of Mcneiloff-road.com

91 ranger 4x4,4.0L, 5spd, manul T case. long bed, autofab 6inch kit in the front,adj height coil buckets,2.5x8 inch remote resi knock off kings shocks. autofab spec springs made by national spring in the rear, along with the 2link for the rear.For the time just some rancho shocks on the rear in the stock locations. little more funds and time, will have some sway a way 2.5 remote resi shocks on the rear as well.

33 inch BFG At's on 15x7rims, with 3-3/4 back space.

DJ safety limitstraps

4.56 gears front and rear, lock rite in the rear.

over all truck has aprx 15inches of travel front and rear after being bumped and straped.

and getting a avg over all of 17-19 mpg with mixed driving.


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foxxy you can get aprx 2inches of height by cranking up your T-bars. Only thing this will cost you money wise is about a hour of your time with a rachet and a socket, then to get anouther aliment. this will do the same thing as those T-bar keys you see for the 200 range.
the only down fall with the keys, or cranking up your T bars is you will lose down travel, and this will make for a really ruff ride if you go over board, or a ruffer ride in general over speed bumps, pot holes etc even from just cranking the T bars.

the more you crank the T bars the ruffer the ride will get...

 

Thats pretty sharp, those bfg's aren't 12.50 wide are they?

 

Thanks,

Yes,they are. 33x12.50x15's BFG AT's.


looking back at the first pic, that is with bilstien 5100's in the front.That were from the front of a superduty w/ 4inches of lift.

heres a few more pic's.....

Autofab coil buckets, and 2.5 x8 inch resivor shock




full bump during assembly



and a gay poser pic....

 

In the first set of pitures it didn't look 12.50" wide, but it does in the the last set of pitures.

 

hey cooljman1. was that picture taken in silver lake sand dunes?

 

Love those old Rangers. I also had a lifted '91 4x4 longbed 5-spd. I miss it... (sniff).
If I hadn't sold mine to someone in L.A., I might think yours could be my old one (I live in Jamul).

Pat

 

4" susp.3" body
302 c-4

 

Thats a nice looking ranger 4x4 Copperhead81, is it an 88?

 

Thanks....................its an 85.

 

It's sharp, you gotta be proud of that one!!

 

I thought I read on RangerForums that if I went 33", I would definitely need a body lift cause they would rub without AND that if I went 32", I would definitely need to torque my t-bars.

 

When I first installed my 32" tires (see sig.) they would only rub the wheel well when the steering wheel was near full lock (for instance, backing out of a parking space). That was the excuse I used to install the lift. At the time, I had a torsion bar lift, but only about 1-2" to make the truck more level, not clear the tires (although that was probably the effect).

I expect that 33" tires would require a lift of some sort, to say nothing of re-gearing.

 

You would need proper back spacing of the rims, so stock rims isn't going to cut it. I have 265/75-16's on mine, thats = to a 32/10.50 with no rubbing. So it's just not height, it's also width. With a t-bar crank, you might get away with 33/11.50 instead of 12.50's on the proper rims. This wheel thing can get to be a science.

 

Well, I'd like to keep my current alcoa's

 

Aren't your alcoa's 8" wide?, If so you could probably handle a 32/11.50. I have 32/10.50 on my Y-spoke stock rims, I believe they are 7.5" or 8" wide. I cranked my t-bars to make the truck look better leveled, I don't believe it was manadtory with this size tire. I had the t-bars cranked at the same time the tires were installed. I didn't do this by trail and error, I had 265/75's on my 04 ranger 4x4 and that was after reading several post on another ranger forum more performance oriented, that said they would fit.That form also said the 33's would fit with a t-car crank, just don't remember what width, since I had no interest in running 33's.