now if I could just get my extension back 
Passenger side valve cover......
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
No, but it's helpful if you unscrew the oil fill tube off the valve cover to give you a little more wiggle room to get it out. I use a swivel joint on a socket, others have used a wrench and accessed those bolts from the wheel well.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
No, for me it is the easy side to do because the wiring harness is not in the way.
The only gotcha is to make sure the stud that holds the dipstick tube down doesn't loosen up before the top nut does.
You have to anchor the stud underneath the hold down tab with a wrench to prevent the stud from spinning when you remove the nut from above the hold down tab. Otherwise you will twist the dipstick tube up like a pretzel trying to get it off.
Everything else is simply "gaining access" with swivel sockets, etc, all while laying across the top of the engine.
Be careful that you don't put too much weight on the plastic coolant bottle mounted on top of the radiator.
The only gotcha is to make sure the stud that holds the dipstick tube down doesn't loosen up before the top nut does.
You have to anchor the stud underneath the hold down tab with a wrench to prevent the stud from spinning when you remove the nut from above the hold down tab. Otherwise you will twist the dipstick tube up like a pretzel trying to get it off.
Everything else is simply "gaining access" with swivel sockets, etc, all while laying across the top of the engine.
Be careful that you don't put too much weight on the plastic coolant bottle mounted on top of the radiator.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
Ha. Quicker than Dan today 
I think the passenger side is easier too, except I access it by standing next to the fender. He does make a good point about the nut on the dipstick tube flange. I've used a pair of vice grips to hold the flange while breaking the nut loose. When re-installing, there's no need to torque that nut down really tight since it only holds the flange in place. Make sure the stud below is tightened down properly to prevent an oil leak. You'll understand once you start removing it.
I think the passenger side is easier too, except I access it by standing next to the fender. He does make a good point about the nut on the dipstick tube flange. I've used a pair of vice grips to hold the flange while breaking the nut loose. When re-installing, there's no need to torque that nut down really tight since it only holds the flange in place. Make sure the stud below is tightened down properly to prevent an oil leak. You'll understand once you start removing it.
Go Bills !
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,778
Likes: 65
From: Buffalo, NY
Those couple valve cover bolts near the heater core were a (bad word here). OMG I was getting so frustrated putting them back in. A whole case of beer just on those two bottom rear bolts.. Had to be a left hander and a contortionist to get in there, even if that would help.. Make sure you have 1/4" or 3/8 wobble joints and some extensions and patience. If i do it again i will fly. First time around i ran out of swear words and beer.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,967
Likes: 0
From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
No, for me it is the easy side to do because the wiring harness is not in the way.
The only gotcha is to make sure the stud that holds the dipstick tube down doesn't loosen up before the top nut does.
You have to anchor the stud underneath the hold down tab with a wrench to prevent the stud from spinning when you remove the nut from above the hold down tab. Otherwise you will twist the dipstick tube up like a pretzel trying to get it off.
Everything else is simply "gaining access" with swivel sockets, etc, all while laying across the top of the engine.
Be careful that you don't put too much weight on the plastic coolant bottle mounted on top of the radiator.
The only gotcha is to make sure the stud that holds the dipstick tube down doesn't loosen up before the top nut does.
You have to anchor the stud underneath the hold down tab with a wrench to prevent the stud from spinning when you remove the nut from above the hold down tab. Otherwise you will twist the dipstick tube up like a pretzel trying to get it off.
Everything else is simply "gaining access" with swivel sockets, etc, all while laying across the top of the engine.
Be careful that you don't put too much weight on the plastic coolant bottle mounted on top of the radiator.
It's not hard to do if you know about it. That cost me I think $23 and a day with the truck.
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Elder User
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Nice picture, LOL.
To get the dreaded "heater core" bolts back in, it is MUCH easier if you get all the others started, but not tightened. That helps hold the whole assembly in better alignment with the bolt holes machined into the cylinder head.
I'm a short guy (5'8") so the only way I could reach those bolts is to lay across the top of the engine and install them that way.
To get the dreaded "heater core" bolts back in, it is MUCH easier if you get all the others started, but not tightened. That helps hold the whole assembly in better alignment with the bolt holes machined into the cylinder head.
I'm a short guy (5'8") so the only way I could reach those bolts is to lay across the top of the engine and install them that way.
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