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Changing CV Axle

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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 06:09 AM
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high ho silver
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Changing CV Axle

I did a search and came up short so I am asking for your help. Anyone changed out a CV axle yet on their escape. I have an 02' that has just started making a slight noise so it would be fine for awhile but I am going to go ahead and change it this weekend. I've done several before on other makes and models but not on the escape. Any tips would be helpful and pictures would be even better. Thanks in advance!
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 03:49 PM
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MMSCHWE
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Did you replace your CV axle ?

How did it go? Anything special?
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 05:28 PM
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high ho silver
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From: Georgia
Originally Posted by MMSCHWE
Did you replace your CV axle ?

How did it go? Anything special?
I bought the part and that is as far as I've gotten. I caught the flu which turned into bronchitus so I haven't felt much like fooling with it. I hope to get it done this weekend. I'll post back when I have it in.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 04:49 PM
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high ho silver
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Originally Posted by high ho silver
I bought the part and that is as far as I've gotten. I caught the flu which turned into bronchitus so I haven't felt much like fooling with it. I hope to get it done this weekend. I'll post back when I have it in.
Ok for any of you do-it-yourselfers, I finally got around to changing my driver side CV axle shaft and thought I would share the process with you in case its time to do yours and you want to save some big bucks. The part only cost $75.00 and was new not rebuilt. My labor was free... Got it from Advance Auto.

The first step after jacking and supporting with jack stands was to remove the wheel to access the 32mm axle nut which you will have to spray with WD-40 or PB blaster to free it up. I used an impact gun with a 32mm socket to get it off.

The next step is to remove the steering tie rod end. Take the cotter pin out and remove the nut with an 18mm socket/wrench. After removing the nut, take the nut and flip it over and screw it back on until the end of the threads are flush with the nut so you can tap it with a hammer to knock the joint out. This little trick will keep you from messing the threads up.

The next step is to remove the lower balljoint. Take a 15mm wrench/socket and a 14mm wrench/socket and remove the bolt & nut that holds the ball joint in place.

The next step is to lower the balljoint down from its perch. Using a prybar, place it in the lower control arm hole and pry down.

The next step is to rotate the entire hub assemble (as if you were turning to the left very sharp). You will have enough wiggle room to take a block of wood or brass punch and knock the axle through the hub and pull it out.
The next step is to remove the other end of the axle shaft from the transmission. I used the same prybar and gently pryed it next to the edge of the tranny housing at the inner CV housing. There is a small lockring on the inside that will have to pop loose. Once you have it loose the axle shaft should slide out alont with a small amount of tranny fluid.
The next step is to take the new axle and insert it into the transmission being careful not to damage the seal. Once you have it in, take a piece of wood or brass punch and tap the axle keeping it straight until the new lock ring is seated in place.
Put everything back in the reverse order of removal and then you can sit back and finish off that 6 pack.

Hope this helps if you want to try it yourself. It took me about 2 1/2 hours.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 03:46 PM
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Thanks for the photos & the detailed how-to! Nice job!
 
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