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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 07:50 PM
  #1  
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Alternator help

2003 2WD F150 Sport 5.4

I just got a new battery a couple of months ago. It has been working good.

This evening my wife goes to start the truck, total dead. Nothing was left on, unless she left the door cracked. But even then an interior light on all night I don't think should kill a new battery. I jumped it off, and it started easy.

I had her take it to Advanced Auto parts. They tested the battery and said it was good.

He said the alernator only showed 14 amps. He said that is VERY LOW. And that when the alternator goes, it will just go quick.

I am going to have her get it tested again at another Auto shop for a 2nd opinion.

So my question. The cheapest I can find an alternator is $160.

In my younger days, I always had them rebuilt for like $30 to $50 bucks at a repair shop. Do these Ford alternators rebuild good? Typical repair cost these days?

Or would you get a newer one or a total rebuilt one sold by a parts store?

My MAIN QUESTION is, what would be the typical LABOR charges to get it installed?

Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 08:03 PM
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From: Hernando Ms
Most "shops" have an average labor rate at around 75.00 per hour.Hell,even Firestone has that or above.Also,most shops will have "heartburn" about installing a reman from an auto parts store.
Concerning the Ford remans,I suspect that they rebuild as good as any,but whatever you decide to do stay away from Autozone.
If I had a guess,any shop will charge you around 75-100.00 to replace the alternator that you provide.
My best luck has been from NAPA autoparts. My last Autozone reman had to be returned three times before they found a "good one"
 
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 08:15 PM
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Replacing it myself????

I am not beyond doing the labor myself. But I have never worked on a Ford or F150 for that matter.

Is it a pain? Do I need a special wrench bar to unlock the pully system? Do I have to take off other parts? Anyone got instructions?

If it is a pain in the A$$, I'll just have it done thru the local repair shop.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 08:28 PM
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Forgot to mention. While truck is running, the battery guage shows good. While driving or idling, the battery/alt LIGHT never comes on (assuming my truck has such a light????)
 
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 09:04 PM
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i would assume the parts place measured 14 volts, not 14 amps. battery voltage is 12 and the charge should be about 14.5 volts from the alternator. 14 is a little low, but if it keeps the battery charged that is o.k. lot of starts and stops will run it down. Driving on highway would probalby keep it up.--- how many miles on the alternator? they tend to have problems about 150k miles on average. some less, some more. I bought a takeoff on e-bay from a company that builds ambulances and sells the takeoffs for about $80.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 09:16 PM
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The truck just has 80,000 highway miles on it. No offroad miles at all.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 09:42 PM
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From: Stockton Ca.
Originally Posted by ronxp2000
2003 2WD F150 Sport 5.4

I just got a new battery a couple of months ago. It has been working good.

This evening my wife goes to start the truck, total dead. Nothing was left on, unless she left the door cracked. But even then an interior light on all night I don't think should kill a new battery. I jumped it off, and it started easy.

I had her take it to Advanced Auto parts. They tested the battery and said it was good.

He said the alernator only showed 14 amps. He said that is VERY LOW. And that when the alternator goes, it will just go quick.

I am going to have her get it tested again at another Auto shop for a 2nd opinion.

So my question. The cheapest I can find an alternator is $160.

In my younger days, I always had them rebuilt for like $30 to $50 bucks at a repair shop. Do these Ford alternators rebuild good? Typical repair cost these days?

Or would you get a newer one or a total rebuilt one sold by a parts store?

My MAIN QUESTION is, what would be the typical LABOR charges to get it installed?

Thanks.
My first thought is he meant 14 volts.
Changing is not hard, write down your radio preset channels, disconnect the negative battery cable, loosen up the fan belt (inspect and replace if needed) disconnect the wires/connectors on the alternator, remove the mounting bolts and that's it,reverse for install. Take your old alternator with you to make sure you get the correct unit. Be aware some rebuilts do not include the pulley which the parts store can swap over for you from the old unit.
Good luck
 
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 10:51 PM
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Well from what I can gather, my wife said it correctly as best she can remember. She is home now, and said the guy said basically the battery is charging the truck. And the alternator was NOT. 14 AMPS does seem extremely low which makes sense as to what he said.

When I get time myself, I'll get the test done. I just wonder why some type of light doesn't come on, unless it's just because I have gauges. I don't know..oh well...

I just hope I am not damaging my battery, but then it is under warranty for free.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 05:42 AM
  #9  
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From: Hernando Ms
Originally Posted by ronxp2000
I am not beyond doing the labor myself. But I have never worked on a Ford or F150 for that matter.

Is it a pain? Do I need a special wrench bar to unlock the pully system? Do I have to take off other parts? Anyone got instructions?

If it is a pain in the A$$, I'll just have it done thru the local repair shop.
Its not that hard to do,and if you have just the "general" tool selection it should be no problem. Be sure to unhook the negative batt cable before starting,and what was said about radio presets is a must(unless radio stations stored arent an issue)...Replacing the belt is also a good idea...
 
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 05:17 AM
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From: N. Fort Myers,FL
Originally Posted by ronxp2000
I am not beyond doing the labor myself. But I have never worked on a Ford or F150 for that matter.

Is it a pain? Do I need a special wrench bar to unlock the pully system? Do I have to take off other parts? Anyone got instructions?

If it is a pain in the A$$, I'll just have it done thru the local repair shop.
There are no special tools required. You need a 1/2 breaker bar or large 1/2 rachet to release belt tension. Then you just need a assortment of metric sockets and a rachet to take the alternator off.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 03:38 PM
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Thanks for all the help. I shouldn't have any problems now.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 07:56 PM
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14 volts isnt low i believe that the general spec is 13.5 to 15.5 volts
i wouldnt believe one word parts guys say about my truck
 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 01:04 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by ronxp2000
Well from what I can gather, my wife said it correctly as best she can remember. She is home now, and said the guy said basically the battery is charging the truck. And the alternator was NOT. 14 AMPS does seem extremely low which makes sense as to what he said.

When I get time myself, I'll get the test done. I just wonder why some type of light doesn't come on, unless it's just because I have gauges. I don't know..oh well...

I just hope I am not damaging my battery, but then it is under warranty for free.
Your truck has a battery light and a battery guage. When you turn the ignition switch on the system does a check of the electrical system and computer with all of the lights in the dash being illuminated. Make sure that the battery symbol light comes on at this time. If it does not, the light in the dash needs to be replaced and is why you haven't seen a light come on. This light should come on if the battery is not charging properly.
The battery guage is not a true voltmeter but more a glorified idiot light. It indicates only that the voltage is in a normal range of 13.5 - 15 volts when the engine is running. When the voltage is in this range, the guage will indictate right in the middle of the range and will not vary at all even if the level is changing.
With the engine off the voltage should be 12 volts and with the engine off but ignition on it should still be 12 volts. Good luck!
 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 11:15 PM
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I replaced the alternator in my 1997 twice. I can say that without a doubt I have never had a vehicle with so many charging problems.

From my experience 14 volts is not low, but it may not be enough to charge the vehicle either. Also as I recall the alternator cable goes to the firewall, I had to replace that cable once because it went bad and while the alternator may be charging it may not be getting the charge to the battery. The last time I replaced the alternator I was getting a decent charge at the battery and was totally stumped. I ended up changing the alternator out of frustration and never had another problem after that.

I would also recommend going to a parts store and purchasing the tool that moves the idler pulley. I did the ratchet the first time and bought the tool the 2nd time at Sears and it was SOOOOO much easier. Shouldn't be more than about $20 and they're universal.

When I traded in my truck I had 178K on her and this is all the stuff I had to replace.

alternator- 2
starter- 2
alternator cable- 1
battery- 2
negative cable- 3
positive cable- 2

Out of all those parts the battery is the cheapest and the rest were anywhere from $100 - $200.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 09:12 PM
  #15  
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Well since this time, I have given it a couple weeks, and the battery has held charge, and the truck has worked and started good.

I am beginning to think the door open all night did indeed drain the battery. Like I said, it jumped right off quick and easy tho.

Just never had any vehicle that would drain a battery that bad. I've had cars where the lights and radio where both left on, the vehicle still started the next day.

GOt my fingers crossed. Hopefully I'll save $160 bucks.
 
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