Alternator help
I just got a new battery a couple of months ago. It has been working good.
This evening my wife goes to start the truck, total dead. Nothing was left on, unless she left the door cracked. But even then an interior light on all night I don't think should kill a new battery. I jumped it off, and it started easy.
I had her take it to Advanced Auto parts. They tested the battery and said it was good.
He said the alernator only showed 14 amps. He said that is VERY LOW. And that when the alternator goes, it will just go quick.
I am going to have her get it tested again at another Auto shop for a 2nd opinion.
So my question. The cheapest I can find an alternator is $160.
In my younger days, I always had them rebuilt for like $30 to $50 bucks at a repair shop. Do these Ford alternators rebuild good? Typical repair cost these days?
Or would you get a newer one or a total rebuilt one sold by a parts store?
My MAIN QUESTION is, what would be the typical LABOR charges to get it installed?
Thanks.
Concerning the Ford remans,I suspect that they rebuild as good as any,but whatever you decide to do stay away from Autozone.
If I had a guess,any shop will charge you around 75-100.00 to replace the alternator that you provide.
My best luck has been from NAPA autoparts.
My last Autozone reman had to be returned three times before they found a "good one"
Is it a pain? Do I need a special wrench bar to unlock the pully system? Do I have to take off other parts? Anyone got instructions?
If it is a pain in the A$$, I'll just have it done thru the local repair shop.
I just got a new battery a couple of months ago. It has been working good.
This evening my wife goes to start the truck, total dead. Nothing was left on, unless she left the door cracked. But even then an interior light on all night I don't think should kill a new battery. I jumped it off, and it started easy.
I had her take it to Advanced Auto parts. They tested the battery and said it was good.
He said the alernator only showed 14 amps. He said that is VERY LOW. And that when the alternator goes, it will just go quick.
I am going to have her get it tested again at another Auto shop for a 2nd opinion.
So my question. The cheapest I can find an alternator is $160.
In my younger days, I always had them rebuilt for like $30 to $50 bucks at a repair shop. Do these Ford alternators rebuild good? Typical repair cost these days?
Or would you get a newer one or a total rebuilt one sold by a parts store?
My MAIN QUESTION is, what would be the typical LABOR charges to get it installed?
Thanks.
Changing is not hard, write down your radio preset channels, disconnect the negative battery cable, loosen up the fan belt (inspect and replace if needed) disconnect the wires/connectors on the alternator, remove the mounting bolts and that's it,reverse for install. Take your old alternator with you to make sure you get the correct unit. Be aware some rebuilts do not include the pulley which the parts store can swap over for you from the old unit.
Good luck
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When I get time myself, I'll get the test done. I just wonder why some type of light doesn't come on, unless it's just because I have gauges. I don't know..oh well...
I just hope I am not damaging my battery, but then it is under warranty for free.
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Is it a pain? Do I need a special wrench bar to unlock the pully system? Do I have to take off other parts? Anyone got instructions?
If it is a pain in the A$$, I'll just have it done thru the local repair shop.
Is it a pain? Do I need a special wrench bar to unlock the pully system? Do I have to take off other parts? Anyone got instructions?
If it is a pain in the A$$, I'll just have it done thru the local repair shop.
When I get time myself, I'll get the test done. I just wonder why some type of light doesn't come on, unless it's just because I have gauges. I don't know..oh well...
I just hope I am not damaging my battery, but then it is under warranty for free.
The battery guage is not a true voltmeter but more a glorified idiot light. It indicates only that the voltage is in a normal range of 13.5 - 15 volts when the engine is running. When the voltage is in this range, the guage will indictate right in the middle of the range and will not vary at all even if the level is changing.
With the engine off the voltage should be 12 volts and with the engine off but ignition on it should still be 12 volts. Good luck!
From my experience 14 volts is not low, but it may not be enough to charge the vehicle either. Also as I recall the alternator cable goes to the firewall, I had to replace that cable once because it went bad and while the alternator may be charging it may not be getting the charge to the battery. The last time I replaced the alternator I was getting a decent charge at the battery and was totally stumped. I ended up changing the alternator out of frustration and never had another problem after that.
I would also recommend going to a parts store and purchasing the tool that moves the idler pulley. I did the ratchet the first time and bought the tool the 2nd time at Sears and it was SOOOOO much easier. Shouldn't be more than about $20 and they're universal.
When I traded in my truck I had 178K on her and this is all the stuff I had to replace.
alternator- 2
starter- 2
alternator cable- 1
battery- 2
negative cable- 3
positive cable- 2
Out of all those parts the battery is the cheapest and the rest were anywhere from $100 - $200.
I am beginning to think the door open all night did indeed drain the battery. Like I said, it jumped right off quick and easy tho.
Just never had any vehicle that would drain a battery that bad. I've had cars where the lights and radio where both left on, the vehicle still started the next day.
GOt my fingers crossed. Hopefully I'll save $160 bucks.




