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Ok, so I can't figure out how to upload pics to my gallery, and I can't figure out how to put them in the post...So check out my Myspace link below to see pictures of my Aerostar IFS installation. Comments welcome. I still have to notch the crossmember so I can roll the steering rack back towards the cab, and then build the steering linkage. I have the column pulled out, and I have to cut the steering shaft off the original gearbox to complete the column and linkage setup.
Cool. Are you going to stick with the 14's or switch to bigger rims later? I like the C-clamp. I installed my rear sway bar this weekend and the only thing I could figure out to use was my small shop chair with a box on top to hold it at the right height. Still need to get around to doing the front this next weekend.
I want to try and get a hold of some 225/70/14's to put on those rims, and then put the sheetmetal back on and see if it looks right. I am wanting to run no wider than a 225 on the front, so hopefully I can do it with the 14's. I like the old school 14/15 combo.
Thats great. I was thinking of going skinnier and shorter in the front on my project as well. My donor truck came with 4 almost new 255/70/15's. Will likely stick with this size in the rear to save a couple bucks on tires. Will have to change the offset to tuck them inside a bit more. Right now they stick out a little too much. Will know for sure once I get the box on. Keep up the good progress.
I did not have to cut the frame at all. The crossmember fits up under the the frame on the pickup nice and snug, and you just weld it in place. I did have to cut the motor perches off the subframe before it would fit under the truck, they were in the way. The crossmember bolts up under the vans...It has 3 long bolts on each side that go thru the upper control arm mounts, thru the frame and into the cross member. If you look at the pictures for the rear, I was able to use the rear-most bolt on each side, and that helped with mock up. My centerline I used on the frame was the hole on each side where the bumpstop was bolted. If you look at the inner frame picture you can see a bolt/nut in the frame. I used a very "scientific" method to find the location for and drill a hole in each side of the crossmember and bolt it to the frame to get it mocked up. I guess the big test will be seeing how well it drives. If you look at the upper control arms, this thing has a world of adjustability to it. The mounts are slotted for adjustment, and the control arms themselves bolt together, and are shimmed. Alignment should be a breeze, as long as the caster isn't to bad.
Hey all, I am also real interested in doing this swap..I found a guy locally at a Race/Rod shop who has made a kit for a "clean/easy" install of these things! He used a '53-'56 frame, but I think the kit would work for the mid 60's too..Anyways, here is a video I took of his set up.. YouTube - HillBillyF100's Channel
He is a good guy..Let me know if you would like his info..
scr8pin
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.