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General timing

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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 07:59 PM
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General timing

Hi guys,
I just got finished rebuilding my 96 302 efi and ready to install it back this weekend. I'm having a problem understanding the facts about setting my timing. As of now the block is set to TDC on #1 compression with the rotor pointing towards the #1 on my distributor cap and harmonic balancer is pointing at 0. Shouldn't this all I need to do in order to get the engine started and tweak it by gently turning the cap? I've read other threads about removing the spout connector and setting the timing at 10* TDC. This is where I am lost, what does this mean?
 
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 08:38 PM
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From: Four Corners, MT
Here ya go man!
This is your spout connector.




So, your truck is ready to fire!
Unplug the spout connector before you fire it up.
The spout is what basically "activates" your timing advance system.

Do you have a timing light? Have you ever used one before?
Here's what to do:


Follow this process.
*Make a mental note of the general direction the distributor is facing, then remove distributor.
*Pull #1 spark plug. (PS front one.)
*Push your finger into the spark plug hole, making sure it seals tightly.
*Using a 15/16's socket turn the motor clockwise continually.
*When you feel pressure start to push your finger out, remove your finger.
*Then peep into the hole with a flashlight and you should see the piston coming towards the top as you turn the motor. *Now, look at the balancer. Is it near "0?"
*If the piston is almost at the top of it's stroke you will be very close to 0. In that case just align the timing point exactly to 0.
*Mark "0" on the balancer with a brightly colored paint or marker, I use a silver sharpie.
*If you are at 0 and you don't feel/see the piston coming up then rotate the entire engine one more time. Now you should be there.
*Then take your rotor and point it at "1" on the cap.
*Re-insert the distributor in the same general direction it was when you took it off.
*Leave the distributor clamp just loose enough to be able to turn it by hand.
*Then fire it up!
*You may have to rotate the whole distributor to get the motor to fire the first time because even following this procedure it's easy to put it in 1 tooth off. If you have to really crank the distributor far to one side or the other to get it to fire it's off a tooth.
Then it's just tuning it to find the sweet spot!

It sounds like you've got all that. It should fire right up man!
Now once it's running, take your timing light and lightly twist the distributor back and forth until it's at the 10* BTDC mark!
Then, rev the engine a time or two, check the timing again, and shut the engine off and tighten the clamp.
Plug your spout connector back in and fire it back up.
Check the timing again and it should be off a bit now, that's the timing advance.

Good luck and let me know if you need anything else!
 
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 12:20 PM
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Thanks Das for the info, I'll probably be doing the timing next weekend so I'll let you know how it turns out. I'll get some pics uploaded as well.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 01:08 PM
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Just to make sure, have you rebuilt an engine before?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 01:24 PM
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No this is the first, but it's done now so we'll see how she goes or blows
 
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 02:33 PM
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From: Four Corners, MT
Do you know how to prime the engine with oil while turning it over by hand?
It's key, also make sure and throw a squirt of oil down each spark plug hole.
I just did this and believe me, it's worth your time!
 
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 07:14 PM
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I've read a few places to prime it with a 5/16 extension connected to a drill to spin the distributor shaft assembly thats inserted in the oil pump. Is this the way I should do it? If so, do I remove the spark plugs during this process?

Could you share your thoughts on this thread as well...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...l-problem.html
 

Last edited by Asylum; Mar 19, 2009 at 07:21 PM. Reason: bla bla
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 10:43 PM
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DasCheckers
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From: Four Corners, MT
Originally Posted by Asylum
I've read a few places to prime it with a 5/16 extension connected to a drill to spin the distributor shaft assembly thats inserted in the oil pump. Is this the way I should do it? If so, do I remove the spark plugs during this process?

Could you share your thoughts on this thread as well...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...l-problem.html
Ok, so here's what you gotta do.

*Get an oil squirt can that looks like this and fill it with whatever oil you are going to run in your new motor.

*Pull all your plugs.
*Then put a squirt in each spark plug hole.
*Fill the engine with oil. It doesn't have to be completely full, it can be about a quart low.
*Get yourself that 5/16" socket and a long extension.
*Wipe some anti-seize into the end of the socket, this is ESSENTIAL if the socket sticks to the shaft and pulls it out, you're screwed.
*Put the socket over the shaft and turn the ratchet counter clockwise ONLY.
*You should do that part with a drill if you can figure out how to. Spin it CCW while turning the motor over by hand with a 15/16"s socket.
*As you spin it with the drill you will feel it build pressure. (This is good!)
*Make sure when you pull the socket off that you wiggle it and twist slightly, you do not want it sticking to the shaft.
*That's all you gotta do!


Your engine is now primed.
Re-install the spark plugs, get everything together, and fire it up!

Also make sure you have coolant running through everything when you fire it up.

Are you installing headers?
Are you installing any aftermarket exhaust?

When you fire it up be prepared for shutting it down.
Let it run for a minute and shut it down, check everything under the hood and make sure it's in order.

Once it seems to be running good let it warm up for about 20 minutes.

Then drain your oil and change it! This is important as there are tons of tiny metal flakes in the oil already.
 
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