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My radiator in the 1960 F100 (292) has a tiny leak somewhere near the top of it. I'm only able to see coolant pooling around a tiny lip where the top tank meets the fin section. I've been noticing this for a few weeks, hoping it was a result of an overfilled radiator but it doesn't look that way. Someone suggested using a bottle of Bars Leaks and forgetting about it. I've used the stuff in the past but only on newer stuff. I was worried that this might clog some tiny passage somewhere, or something.
I would go with a more expensive fix (recore or new radiator) but I plan on putting a different engine in anyway, and this one won't line up.
I wouldn't put tar in it. If you must use a quick and dirty method, look for the ground aluminum flakes, I forget the brand name. Still not a "right" fix, but seems to do no major harm.
The old timer used ground pepper and I know some of the guys at the local circle track do too. They aren't suppose to run any chemicals in their cooling systems in case they suffer damage and the car pukes all over the in field. I thought I'd throw that into the mix.
I recently had the same kine of leak in my '56. I had changed the pressure cap to a 13lb one and the excess pressure caused the tank to create a small split; difficult to detect.
I wasn't aware that the old large tanks can't handle much pressure until someone on FTE advised a 4 - 7lb max cap. I brazed the seam, changed the cap to 7lb and no more leak.
If the leak is in the core, aluminum flakes or Bars Leaks may work; not certain whether it will fix tank or seam leaks.
How much ground pepper are you supposed to use? Is it the same pepper that you'd use at the dinner table- ground black pepper? Is that just a quick fix that gets them through the race or does it hold up over time?
I am running a 7lb cap on mine...I wonder if the old cap was less than 7...
I have always had good luck using Bars Leaks for small leaks when a proper repair wasn't feasible at the time. Just from personal experience it's really the only one I trust. The old black pepper trick will work sometimes as well when nothing else is available.
How much ground pepper are you supposed to use? Is it the same pepper that you'd use at the dinner table- ground black pepper? Is that just a quick fix that gets them through the race or does it hold up over time?
I am running a 7lb cap on mine...I wonder if the old cap was less than 7...
I've never done the pepper fix myself but I was told you dump an entire box, like you get in the grocery store, 4"X2"X1"? Yeah, I think it's just a cheap, quick fix that the old guys would use to do a fix on the cheap.
These quick fixes IMO are for emergency repairs to get you home. I wouldn't put any distance between my truck and the garage until you fix it right or your liable to be sitting on the side of the rode waiting for a tow.
Many years ago, thanks to bird going thru the grill 200 miles from home. I had to take a pair of needle nose pliers, pinch a couple of tubes off, and leave the radiator cap loose to get it home.
B/B and Eman are right. Bars Leak and Silver Seal are for emergency use, pepper is a temperary fix also. They work and I carry Bars Leak in my service van for an emergency fixit.
I get out on these remote jobs quit often. I might be twenty or more miles from civilization and if I run a branch in my radiator I can fix it. Pinched viens and got water out of the creek more than once.
These products will plug your water jackets, heater core, and any place else in the cooling system that it can puddle in. Its like Fix-A-Flat, plugs the hole in the tire sure, but it also coats the inside of the tire as well. So you throw the tire away and buy a new one because no one will fix it or balance it. You'll most likely be fixing/replacing a lot more than the radiator if you use these products. Ask a radiator shop about them?
Been there done that as they say!!
You're lucky to have an old truck with a metal tank that you can solder. If the leak is at a solder joint you can try lighty peening the solder around the leak with a punch to seal it. If that doesn't work, clean the area and flux with Oatey lead free solder flux. This stuff is great on radiators as it really cleans and tins the area. Then solder with 50-50 tin-lead solder. A little Bars leak is OK in a clean system. Too much will plug your heater core. I once took a buddies' advice and used Boiler Sealer to repair a cracked head on an old Chevy truck that was losing 5 to 6 quarts of antifreeze a day and ending up in my crankcase. It worked. Too well. Stopped the leak and plugged my heater core. I drove most of a Pennsylvania winter with no heat. The directions said to use 1 qt. for every 250 ft. of baseboard radiation. I figured the truck was about half that, so used half a quart. Blame it on youthful enthusiasm.
you shouldnt use any of that stuff to fix your radiator. not only will it clog up your heater core it Will clog up the water passages on your head gaskets too! It will mess it up, When I used it for a quick fix Bars leak for a split seam on my upper tank to get me home one time. When I removed my engine to rebuild it I found the water passages on the head gaskets had been almost closed up had a hole about the size of a #2 pencil lead for the water to get by.
I think Bar's Leak will work fine for small leaks, assuming your cooling system is fairly clean. All new Fords have it put in the radiator just before the coolant goes in, or at least they did for the 33 years I worked there....Rod
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