460 Motor mount in my 51 Question.
#1
460 Motor mount in my 51 Question.
I was looking at these pics (that Julie found for me lol) and looked at my current MII setup for a SBF, and the BBF mounts I think would work I would just have to trime them to make them shorter and drill a new hole for the bolt to go threw. I put my frame pics in my Gallery. On my MII The SBF perch is in the same location on the frame as the BBF its just narrower (more inside the frame) than the BBF. I drew an arrow where I could move the pad over on the SBF perch to help compensate for shortening the BBF mount below. I added 2 pics in my gallery of the SBF mount/perch and the pad I have now. What do you guys think? Here is the photos Julie found for me:
#2
#5
You would have to either fabricate a notch that is flat in the spring hat (?) for the mount to sit on and drill through the frame for the bolt or space up a flat surface for the mount to sit on, if that doesn’t raise the engine too much.
Or Plan “B”, use a original type motor mount and fabricate a mount.
Or Plan “B”, use a original type motor mount and fabricate a mount.
#6
I'm looking at that picture and way deep in my shallow little brain I remember seeing another set up for a 460, that was incorporated into a TCI cross member.
Chassis Engineering I think, will fabricate mounts for whatever engine you are installing to go with there bolt in cross member, but that doesn't help you much here.
First, I think what you need to do is do able. The reason I say that is because there are two dimenisonal differences between your set up and the ones in the pictures. And basically what you need to do is move the bolt to the same point as the other mount. So, first you need to raise it up a little - about 1 1/2 to 2 inches it looks like from your pictures. Then you need to move it toward the frame about 1 1/2 to 2 inches.
So, what I would do is built a "cap" to weld onto the cross member above where your rubber is now (take the rubber off). I'm going to try to describe what kind of cap.
First, look down at your shoe. HA HA made ya look! No seriously look down at your shoe and imagine cutting off the sole and then cutting the back half of the shoe off - so that just the parts over your toes was there. That cut off of the back half would be slanted so that as you got closer to the floor, the cut edge would progressively travel away from you.
Now, if you made one of those out of heavy gauge steel - that fit on top of the existing mount and welded it on to the lower one on the bottom edge (where the sole of you shoe was) then drilled your hole for the mount throught the top but closer to the frame, I think you would have it.
Here is a rough picture of what I mean:
Or is it possible to just drill the bolt hole in the piece that attaches to the engine an inch or so closer to where it mounts to the engine, and tolerate a stiffer mount and an engine that sits an inch lower? Check your fan clearance in the front and oil pan clearance underneath for that fix.
Chassis Engineering I think, will fabricate mounts for whatever engine you are installing to go with there bolt in cross member, but that doesn't help you much here.
First, I think what you need to do is do able. The reason I say that is because there are two dimenisonal differences between your set up and the ones in the pictures. And basically what you need to do is move the bolt to the same point as the other mount. So, first you need to raise it up a little - about 1 1/2 to 2 inches it looks like from your pictures. Then you need to move it toward the frame about 1 1/2 to 2 inches.
So, what I would do is built a "cap" to weld onto the cross member above where your rubber is now (take the rubber off). I'm going to try to describe what kind of cap.
First, look down at your shoe. HA HA made ya look! No seriously look down at your shoe and imagine cutting off the sole and then cutting the back half of the shoe off - so that just the parts over your toes was there. That cut off of the back half would be slanted so that as you got closer to the floor, the cut edge would progressively travel away from you.
Now, if you made one of those out of heavy gauge steel - that fit on top of the existing mount and welded it on to the lower one on the bottom edge (where the sole of you shoe was) then drilled your hole for the mount throught the top but closer to the frame, I think you would have it.
Here is a rough picture of what I mean:
Or is it possible to just drill the bolt hole in the piece that attaches to the engine an inch or so closer to where it mounts to the engine, and tolerate a stiffer mount and an engine that sits an inch lower? Check your fan clearance in the front and oil pan clearance underneath for that fix.
#7
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GreatNorthWoods
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
21
10-10-2012 09:46 AM
cdrmotorsports
1999 to 2016 Super Duty
22
09-03-2010 12:02 PM